Datsun 1600/510, The Complete Buying Guide

Overview

The Datsun 510 (sold as the “Datsun 1600” in Australia and some other markets) is one of the most significant Japanese cars ever made. Produced from 1967 to 1973, it earned the nickname “the poor man’s BMW 2002” — and it deserved it. Here was a lightweight, rear-wheel-drive sedan with an overhead cam engine, independent rear suspension, rack-and-pinion steering, and a willing chassis that punched well above its weight in every form of motorsport. It won the SCCA Trans-Am 2.5 Challenge championship in America and was competitive in rally and circuit racing worldwide.

The 510/1600 was designed under the direction of Yutaka Katayama (“Mr. K”), the legendary Nissan executive who built the Datsun brand in America. The car was intended to compete with European sedans like the BMW 1600 and Alfa Romeo Giulia — and at a fraction of the price, it succeeded spectacularly.

For the Australian buyer in 2026, the Datsun 1600/510 is a car that has finally been recognised for what it is: a landmark design with genuine motorsport heritage and a driving experience that embarrasses cars costing ten times as much. Prices have risen dramatically over the past decade, and clean examples are increasingly scarce. The 510/1600’s biggest enemy is rust — these cars dissolve.

What to Look For

Rust — The 510’s Terminal Illness

The Datsun 510/1600 is one of the rustiest Japanese cars of its era. The thin-gauge steel, primitive corrosion protection, and numerous water-trapping cavities mean that surviving examples are almost universally affected. In Australia, even without road salt, decades of humidity, coastal air, and normal weathering have taken their toll.

Critical structural rust areas — walk away if severe:

• Floors: The floor pans are the most commonly affected area. Check the driver’s and passenger’s footwells, the rear seat area, and the boot floor. The floors are thin and corrode from below. Press firmly — if you feel give, the metal is gone. Repair panels are available but fitting them properly is a significant job. Cost: $500—1,500 per section.

• Sills: The rocker panels are box sections that rust from inside. When the sills go, the body loses structural rigidity. Check by pressing firmly on the outer sill skin. Cost: $1,000—2,500 per side.

• Inner guards (front inner fenders): The area around the strut towers and radiator support panel traps moisture and road spray. Severe rot here compromises the front suspension mounting. Cost: $800—2,000 per side.

• A-pillars: The windscreen pillars rust at their bases. This is structural and difficult to repair. Cost: $1,000—2,500.

• Rear wheel arches: Both inner and outer arches corrode. The inner arches are the more serious concern as they form part of the body structure. Cost: $500—1,500 per side.

• Spare tyre well: Water collects here from boot seal failures and condenses. The spare tyre well is often the first area to perforate.

Common cosmetic rust areas:

• Front fenders (lower edges and around headlights)
• Door bottoms (drain holes block)
• Tailgate or boot lid edges
• Windscreen surround (under the seal)

The brutal truth: Finding a rust-free 510/1600 in Australia in 2026 is almost impossible. The question is not “does it have rust?” but “how much, and where?” A car with surface rust on cosmetic panels and solid structural metal is a good buy. A car with structural rust — regardless of how nice it looks elsewhere — is a major project.

Engine

The 510/1600 uses the Nissan L-series overhead cam four-cylinder engine. Australian-market 1600s used the L16, while some markets received the L13 or L14. The L-series is a robust, well-designed engine that was used across numerous Datsun and Nissan models.

L16 (1,595cc, ~96 hp): The standard engine for the Datsun 1600. It is an oversquare design with a cast-iron block, aluminium head, single overhead cam, and a single two-barrel carburettor (Hitachi SU-type). The L16 loves to rev — it is smooth, willing, and sounds terrific when it’s working properly. It is not a powerful engine by modern standards, but in a car weighing around 900 kg, it is adequate for spirited driving.

What to check:

• Oil leaks: The L-series leaks oil from everywhere when gaskets age. The valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and distributor shaft seal are all culprits. Some seepage is normal; dripping is not.
• Timing chain: The L-series uses a timing chain (not a belt). The chain and tensioner wear over time. A rattling noise from the front of the engine on cold start indicates a worn tensioner or stretched chain. Replacement: $200—500.
• Compression: Should be even across all four cylinders. Low compression indicates worn rings or leaking valves.
• Overheating: The L16 runs hot in Australian conditions. Check the radiator, thermostat, and water pump. Aluminium radiator upgrade recommended: $250—450.
• Head gasket: Coolant in the oil (milky residue on the dipstick) or oil in the coolant indicates a blown head gasket. Not uncommon on high-mileage L-series engines, particularly if they’ve been overheated.

L-series engine swaps: Many 510/1600s have been fitted with larger L-series engines — the L18 (1.8L) or L20B (2.0L). These are straightforward bolt-in swaps that provide more power without significantly altering the car’s character. The SR20DE(T) swap from later Nissan models is also popular but requires more modification. Check what engine is actually in the car — it may not be the original L16.

Gearbox

The standard 510/1600 gearbox is a 4-speed manual. It is adequate for the L16’s modest power but not a strong unit by any measure.

• Synchro wear: Check for grinding on 2nd and 3rd gear, particularly on quick downshifts.
• Bearing noise: A whining gearbox indicates worn bearings.
• 5-speed conversion: A popular upgrade using the 5-speed from a later Datsun 280ZX or similar. The 5-speed adds a useful overdrive ratio and is a stronger unit.

Automatic: A 3-speed automatic was available. As with all sporting sedans of the era, avoid it — it ruins the driving experience.

Brakes

The standard 510/1600 has drum brakes on all four wheels. This is the car’s single biggest dynamic weakness. The drum brakes are barely adequate for spirited driving and fade badly under repeated hard use.

• Check for even braking — the car should stop in a straight line
• Check brake drum condition — scored or out-of-round drums need machining or replacement
• Disc brake conversion: A front disc brake conversion (using later Datsun components) is one of the most important upgrades you can make. Kits are available from specialists. Cost: $500—1,000 for a front disc conversion.

Suspension

The 510/1600’s suspension was remarkably sophisticated for its class:

• Front: MacPherson struts with coil springs
• Rear: Semi-trailing arm independent rear suspension with coil springs

This is the 510’s secret weapon. The independent rear suspension, while not as sophisticated as a multi-link system, gives the 510 handling that humiliates its contemporaries with live rear axles. The suspension is tuneable and responds well to aftermarket springs, dampers, and anti-roll bars.

What to check:

• Worn shock absorbers (bounce test — the car should settle in one bounce)
• Perished rubber bushings (clunking, vague steering)
• Sagging springs (check ride height — the 510 should sit level)

Body Variants

The 510/1600 was available in three body styles:

• 2-door sedan: The most sought-after variant. Lighter, stiffer, and sportier-looking. The 2-door is the one that raced and the one that commands the highest prices.
• 4-door sedan: More practical, less desirable, but the same mechanicals.
• Wagon (estate): Practical and increasingly collectible. The wagon shares the 4-door’s longer wheelbase.

The SSS (Super Sports Sedan) is the performance model with sportier trim, typically a close-ratio gearbox, and sometimes twin carburettors. SSS badging adds significant value.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

2-Door SSS

• Project (major rust, needs everything): $10,000—18,000
• Driver (runs, some rust, usable): $18,000—30,000
• Good (presentable, maintained): $30,000—45,000
• Excellent (restored or outstanding original): $45,000—65,000+

2-Door Standard

• Project: $8,000—15,000
• Driver: $15,000—25,000
• Good: $25,000—40,000
• Excellent: $40,000—55,000

4-Door

• Project: $5,000—10,000
• Driver: $10,000—20,000
• Good: $20,000—30,000
• Excellent: $30,000—45,000

Wagon

• Project: $8,000—15,000
• Driver: $15,000—25,000
• Good: $25,000—40,000
• Excellent: $40,000—55,000

Prices have risen dramatically over the past decade. Clean 2-door 510s have roughly tripled in value since 2015.

Running Costs

Servicing: The 510/1600 is mechanically simple and cheap to service. Oil change: $30—50 DIY. Full service: $80—150 DIY, $250—450 at a specialist.

Fuel: 8—11 L/100 km on 91 or 95 RON. The L16 is not fussy.

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car policy, $400—800/year.

Parts: Engine parts are well-supplied — the L-series was used in numerous Datsun and Nissan models (510, 610, 710, 620 truck, 240Z/260Z). Suspension and brake parts are available through Datsun specialists. Body parts are the critical shortage — reproduction panels exist for some areas but quality varies, and original panels from wreckers are extremely scarce.

Which Variant?

Body: The 2-door is the one to have. It is lighter, stiffer, looks better, and is the one with the motorsport heritage. The wagon is increasingly collectible and has a cult following. The 4-door is the practical choice and the most affordable.

Model: The SSS is the desirable model. Twin carburettors (if fitted), close-ratio gearbox, and the right badges. But a standard 510 with the right modifications can match an SSS dynamically.

Engine: If it still has the original L16, that’s fine for road use. Many owners upgrade to an L20B (2.0L) or SR20DE for more power. The L20B retains the car’s period character; the SR20 transforms it into something much faster.

Brakes: Budget for a front disc conversion if the car still has four-wheel drums.

The Verdict

The Datsun 510/1600 is one of the most rewarding classic cars you can own. It offers genuine motorsport heritage, a brilliant chassis with independent rear suspension, a willing engine, and a lightness and directness that modern cars cannot match. It is the car that proved Japan could build world-class sporting sedans.

The challenge is finding a good one. Rust has claimed the majority of the 510/1600 population, and clean examples are increasingly rare and expensive. Body parts are scarce, and a proper rust restoration can easily exceed the car’s market value.

Buy the best body you can afford. The engine, gearbox, suspension, and brakes are all rebuildable or upgradeable. The body is the car — if the structure is sound, everything else is solvable. If the body is rotten, walk away.