Datsun 240Z / 260Z / 280Z, The Complete Buying Guide

Overview

The Datsun Z-car, 240Z (1969-1973), 260Z (1974-1976), and 280Z (1977-1978), is one of the most significant sports cars ever built. It proved that a Japanese manufacturer could build a genuine grand tourer that rivalled European machinery at a fraction of the price. In 2026, these cars have gone from cheap weekend fun to serious collector territory, and the prices reflect it.

The heart of every Z-car is an L-series inline-six: the L24 in the 240Z, L26 in the 260Z, and L28 in the 280Z. These are iron-block, overhead-cam engines that are mechanically simple, incredibly tough, and easy to work on. They are not high-revving screamers, they make their power through torque and displacement. The L28 is the strongest of the three, and it is the engine most commonly used in performance builds.

For the Australian buyer in 2026, the Z-car market has fundamentally changed. Clean 240Zs now command $60,000 to well over $120,000. The 260Z and 280Z are more affordable but climbing fast. This is no longer a “cheap classic” purchase. You are buying a piece of automotive history, and the due diligence needs to match the investment.

What to Look For

Rust, The Number One Concern

This is not an exaggeration: rust is the single most important factor when buying any Z-car. These cars rot from the inside out, and structural rust can turn a $60,000 purchase into a $100,000 restoration. Every Z-car will have some rust. The question is where, and how much.

Critical rust areas, walk away if severely affected:

• Floors: Lift the carpet and poke the metal. The driver’s and passenger’s floor pans rot from underneath where road spray accumulates. Surface rust is manageable. Perforations mean you are looking at floor pan replacement, a significant job that requires the body to come off the chassis rails.
• Sills (rocker panels): The box-section sills trap moisture and rot from the inside. Tap them with a screwdriver. If it goes through, the structural integrity is compromised. Sill replacement is labour-intensive and expensive.
• Spare wheel well: The boot floor around the spare wheel well is a moisture trap. Lift the spare and inspect thoroughly. This area rusts badly on almost every Z-car.
• Battery tray: The battery sits in a tray on the right-hand side of the engine bay. Acid and moisture attack the metal. A rotted battery tray often indicates that rust has spread into the inner guard and firewall.
• Strut towers: The front strut towers carry the entire front suspension load. Rust here is structural and dangerous. Check both the top mounting area and the base where the tower meets the inner guard. Cracked or rusted strut towers mean the car is not safe to drive.

Secondary rust areas, common and repairable:

• Rear quarter panels behind the wheels
• Door skins at the bottom edges
• Windscreen frame (particularly the lower corners)
• Rear hatch area and taillight surrounds
• Under the vinyl roof on 260Z and 280Z models (the vinyl traps moisture against the roof skin)

The honest truth: A Z-car that has lived its entire life in dry inland Australia will be in vastly better condition than one from coastal New South Wales or anywhere in New Zealand. Ask where the car has spent its life. If the answer is “near the coast,” bring a magnet and a screwdriver and check everything twice.

Engine

L24 (240Z):

• 2.4-litre, 151 hp (factory). Twin SU carburettors (round-top on early cars, flat-top on later).
• SU carburettor issues are extremely common. Worn throttle shafts cause vacuum leaks and poor idle. The diaphragms in the float chambers deteriorate. Rebuilding a pair of SUs costs $400-800 in parts, and finding someone who can tune them properly is increasingly difficult.
• Check for oil consumption. The L24 uses valve stem seals that harden with age, causing blue smoke on startup and deceleration. Replacement is straightforward with the head on the car.
• Listen for timing chain rattle on cold start. The L24 uses a single-row timing chain that stretches with age. A double-row conversion kit is available and recommended ($200-400).

L26 (260Z):

• 2.6-litre, 162 hp (factory). Twin SU carburettors (Australian market).
• Essentially a stroked L24. Same issues apply, SU carburettors, valve seals, timing chain.
• The L26 has a reputation for being the least interesting of the three engines. It was a stopgap between the L24 and L28, and it shows.

L28 (280Z):

• 2.8-litre, 170 hp (factory). Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection (Australian market).
• The L28 is the strongest and most desirable L-series engine. The larger bore and stroke give it noticeably more torque than the L24 or L26.
• Fuel injection: The Bosch L-Jetronic system was advanced for its era but is now 45+ years old. The airflow meter (AFM) is the most common failure point, it uses a flap that wears and gives incorrect readings, causing rich or lean running. Replacement AFMs are expensive and increasingly hard to source. Many owners convert to electronic fuel injection (Haltech, Link, MegaSquirt) for reliability.
• The cold start injector and thermo time switch fail frequently, causing hard cold starting.
• Despite the injection issues, the L28 is the engine to have. It responds extremely well to modifications and is the foundation for most serious Z-car builds.

All engines, general checks:

• Oil pressure: Should be 60+ psi at 3,000 rpm when warm. Below 40 psi indicates bearing wear.
• Compression: Should be 150-170 psi across all six cylinders, with no more than 10% variation between the highest and lowest. Low compression on adjacent cylinders suggests a head gasket issue.
• Coolant: Check for milky oil or oily coolant, head gasket failure. The L-series head gasket is a known weakness.
• Engine mounts: The L-series uses rubber engine mounts that collapse with age. Excessive engine movement causes exhaust manifold cracks and accelerates wear on the gearbox input shaft.

Transmission

4-speed manual (early 240Z):

• The early 240Z came with a 4-speed gearbox. It is adequate for stock power but feels agricultural compared to the 5-speed. If you are buying an early car, the 4-speed is correct for the model and adds originality value.

5-speed manual (later 240Z, 260Z, 280Z):

• The 5-speed is the preferred transmission. Check for notchy shifting (particularly 2nd and 3rd gear synchros), grinding during downshifts, and excessive play in the gear lever.
• The 5-speed from the 280Z is the strongest and most desirable. It is a common swap into 240Z and 260Z cars.

Automatic:

• Some Z-cars were delivered with a 3-speed automatic. These are significantly less desirable and worth 30-40% less than equivalent manual cars. Unless you are specifically looking for a cruiser, avoid the auto.

Differential:

• The R180 diff (240Z) is adequate for stock power but weak under hard use. The R200 diff (later 260Z and 280Z) is stronger and a common upgrade.
• Check for diff whine (bearing wear) and clunking (worn diff mount bushings). Diff mount bushings are a known wear item on all Z-cars, the rubber perishes and the diff moves under load, causing clunking and vibration.

Suspension

• The Z-car uses MacPherson struts at the front and Chapman struts at the rear. The design is fundamentally sound but every rubber bushing on a 45-55 year old car will be shot.
• Check for worn ball joints (grab the front wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and rock it), worn tie rod ends (grab at 3 and 9 o’clock), and leaking shock absorbers.
• Rear wheel bearings: A known wear item on Z-cars. Listen for humming or grinding from the rear at highway speed. Replacement requires a press and is not a simple job.
• Aftermarket suspension kits from companies like Tokico, KYB, and Koni are available and recommended for any car that will be driven enthusiastically.

Body and Trim

• Panel gaps: The Z-car was not built to Mercedes tolerances. However, wildly uneven panel gaps suggest previous crash damage or poor-quality repair work. Check the door gaps, bonnet alignment, and hatch fit.
• Bumpers: The 240Z has slim chrome bumpers. The 260Z and 280Z received increasingly large “impact” bumpers to meet US safety regulations. On Australian-delivered cars, the bumpers are generally smaller than US-spec equivalents, but the later cars are still noticeably heavier at the front and rear.
• Glass: The rear hatch glass is bonded and expensive to replace. Check for delamination (clouding between the glass layers on heated rear windows) and cracks.
• Interior: Seats wear on the bolsters. Dashboard cracking is epidemic, almost every Z-car has a cracked dashboard. Reproduction dashboards are available ($800-1,500) but quality varies. Original gauges are desirable and functional, check that the tachometer, speedometer, and ancillary gauges all work.

Desirability Ranking

1. 240Z Series 1 (round-tail, 1969-1971): The most desirable Z-car. The round taillight design, slim bumpers, and historical significance make early 240Zs the most valuable. A concours-quality Series 1 240Z can exceed $150,000 AUD.
2. 240Z Series 2 (1972-1973): Slightly less desirable than the Series 1 but still highly sought after. Rectangular taillights distinguish it from the Series 1.
3. 260Z (1974-1976): The middle child. Less desirable than the 240Z due to the emissions-era detuning and heavier bumpers. The 2+2 variant (with a longer wheelbase and rear seats) is less popular with purists.
4. 280Z (1977-1978): The least desirable as a collector piece but arguably the best daily driver, thanks to the more powerful L28 engine and improved refinement. The fuel injection can be problematic but the underlying car is the most developed of the three.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

240Z

• Project (rust, needs full restoration): $25,000-45,000
• Driver (runs, presentable, some rust): $45,000-70,000
• Good (solid, well-maintained): $70,000-100,000
• Excellent (restored or low-km survivor): $100,000-150,000+
• Concours Series 1: $150,000-200,000+

260Z

• Project: $12,000-25,000
• Driver: $25,000-40,000
• Good: $40,000-60,000
• Excellent: $60,000-80,000

280Z

• Project: $10,000-20,000
• Driver: $20,000-35,000
• Good: $35,000-50,000
• Excellent: $50,000-65,000

2+2 variants are worth 20-30% less than equivalent coupes. Australian-delivered RHD cars command a premium over grey imports.

Running Costs

Parts availability: Mixed. Mechanical parts (engine, transmission, suspension) are well-served by specialists like Datsun Garage, Z-Store, and various US-based suppliers. Body panels, trim, and rubber seals are harder to source and expensive. Reproduction parts are available for most items but quality ranges from excellent to terrible. Join the Z-car clubs before buying, members are the best source for parts leads.

Servicing: These are simple cars to service. Oil change (10W-40, 4.3L capacity): $50-80 DIY. Full service including valve adjustment, points/timing (if applicable), and fluid changes: $200-400 DIY, $400-800 at a specialist.

Fuel economy:

• 240Z: 10-13 L/100 km (depends heavily on SU carburettor condition)
• 260Z: 11-14 L/100 km
• 280Z: 11-14 L/100 km
• All models require 95 RON premium unleaded (or 98 RON for peace of mind)

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car insurance is essential at these prices. Budget $800-2,000/year depending on the agreed value. Shannons, RACV Classic, and JustCar are the usual providers.

The RB Swap Question

It needs to be addressed: the RB engine swap culture is enormous in Australia. RB20DET, RB25DET, and RB26DETT conversions are extremely popular in Z-cars. An RB-swapped Z-car is a genuinely quick, exciting car, the inline-six layout is a natural fit, and the aftermarket support for RB engines is outstanding.

However, an RB swap permanently alters the car and significantly affects its collectability. A numbers-matching 240Z with an original L24 is worth far more than an RB-swapped example. If you want an RB Z-car, buy a rough 280Z or a 260Z 2+2, they are the least collectible variants and the most affordable starting point for a build.

If you are buying a car that has already been RB-swapped, check the quality of the conversion. Look for: proper engine mounts (not fabricated from angle iron), correct wiring (not a bird’s nest of scotch-locks), functional cooling system, and appropriate transmission (the RB30 5-speed or RB25 5-speed are common, but the Z32 300ZX transmission is the strongest option). A well-executed RB swap with a quality tune is a brilliant car. A hack job is a money pit.

The Verdict

The Datsun Z-car is one of the all-time greats. The 240Z changed the sports car world, and every variant from 240Z to 280Z is a genuinely enjoyable car to drive. But at 2026 prices, you cannot afford to make a mistake. Rust is the enemy, it can be hidden, it can be covered, and it can turn a beautiful car into a structural nightmare.

Buy the best example you can afford. Have the car inspected by someone who knows Z-cars, not a general mechanic, but a Z-car specialist. Join the Datsun Sports Owners Club or the Z-Car Club of your state before you buy, and tap into the knowledge of people who have been living with these cars for decades. A good Z-car will reward you for years. A bad one will punish you financially and emotionally.