Nissan Skyline GT-R R32/R33/R34, Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between an R32, R33, and R34 GT-R?

All three generations use the same RB26DETT twin-turbocharged 2.6-litre inline-six engine and the ATTESA E-TS all-wheel-drive system. The key differences are:

• R32 (1989-1994): The original “Godzilla.” Lightest at 1,430 kg. Shortest wheelbase (2,615 mm). Most raw and analogue driving experience. Hydraulic HICAS.
• R33 (1995-1998): Larger and heavier (1,540 kg). Longer wheelbase (2,720 mm). Better high-speed stability. Improved suspension geometry. Hydraulic HICAS. Set the sub-8-minute Nurburgring record.
• R34 (1999-2002): Most refined. Electronic HICAS (replacing hydraulic). Multi-Function Display. Best brakes and aero. Most collectible. 1,560 kg.

The R34 is the most desirable and valuable. The R32 is the most engaging to drive. The R33 is the best value.

What is the real power output of the RB26DETT?

Nissan officially claimed 206 kW (276 hp / 280 PS) for all three generations. This was a deliberate understatement to comply with the Japanese manufacturers’ gentleman’s agreement that capped advertised power at 280 PS.

Dyno testing consistently shows stock RB26DETTs producing 220-240 kW at the flywheel (approximately 190-210 kW at the wheels). The R34’s revised turbochargers and manifolds likely produce slightly more than the R32’s setup, but the differences between generations are modest at stock boost levels.

The real story is what the RB26 produces when modified. With upgraded turbochargers, a quality tune, and supporting modifications (injectors, fuel pump, exhaust), the RB26 comfortably makes 350-500 kW on the stock bottom end. With forged internals, 600-1,000+ kW is routinely achievable. The engine was wildly over-engineered from the factory.

What is the oil pump collar issue and does my car need it?

The oil pump collar (sometimes called the oil pump drive collar or oil pump mod) is a critical modification for R32 and R33 GT-Rs.

The problem: The factory oil pump is driven by a collar that fits over the crankshaft nose. This collar is retained by a single roll pin. Under high RPM, the pin can shear and the collar spins freely, causing the oil pump to stop. The engine loses oil pressure instantly and is destroyed within seconds.

The fix: An aftermarket hardened collar (Nismo, Tomei, or similar) with improved retention replaces the factory part. Cost: $200-400 for the collar plus labour.

Do you need it? If you own an R32 or R33 GT-R, yes, without question. This is not optional. The R34 uses a revised oil pump design that is less susceptible, but many R34 owners fit the mod as insurance. If you are buying any GT-R and the seller cannot confirm the collar mod has been done, budget for it as an immediate priority.

Should I delete HICAS?

This is one of the most common modifications on GT-Rs, and the short answer for most owners is yes.

Why delete it:

• The hydraulic HICAS (R32/R33) develops leaks and faults that make the rear end unpredictable
• Even when working correctly, HICAS can feel unsettling during spirited driving, the rear steering can feel like the car is stepping out when it is actually just the HICAS activating
• For track use, fixed rear geometry is universally preferred for predictability
• Deleting HICAS simplifies the car and removes a maintenance burden

Why keep it:

• Originality, for a numbers-matching collector car, removing HICAS reduces value
• The R34’s electronic HICAS is more reliable than the hydraulic system and integrates with the car’s overall dynamics

How to delete: A HICAS lock bar kit ($200-400) replaces the rear steering rack with fixed-length tie rods. The installation takes 2-3 hours. The HICAS warning light will illuminate on the dashboard, this can be resolved with a resistor or by reprogramming the ECU.

Are GT-Rs reliable enough to daily drive?

Yes, with caveats. A stock GT-R in good mechanical condition is a reliable car. The RB26DETT is over-engineered, the drivetrain is tough, and the electronics (by the standards of the era) are robust. Many GT-Rs in Japan have covered 200,000+ km as daily drivers.

What makes daily driving challenging:

• Fuel consumption: 13-16 L/100 km on 98 RON. That is $150-200+ per week in fuel for a 50 km daily commute at 2026 prices.
• Insurance: Expensive. Budget $2,000-5,000+ per year for comprehensive.
• Servicing: More frequent and more expensive than a modern car.
• Parts: Available but not cheap. A set of brake pads costs $200-400, not $80-120.
• Attention: You will be photographed, approached at petrol stations, and asked “what have you done to it?” constantly. This gets old.

What makes it workable:

• The engine is tough and rewards regular maintenance
• The ATTESA system provides genuine wet-weather confidence
• Air conditioning works well (when the system is serviced)
• The R33 and R34 are surprisingly comfortable for long-distance driving

If you can afford the running costs and you have a covered parking spot (these cars are too valuable to street-park), a GT-R makes a characterful daily driver. An R33 GT-R is the best choice for daily duties, it is the most comfortable and the lowest entry price.

What is the difference between a GT-R and a GTS-t / GT-t?

This is important, because many “Skylines” in Australia are not GT-Rs.

GT-R (BNR32 / BCNR33 / BNR34):

• RB26DETT twin-turbo 2.6L inline-six
• ATTESA E-TS all-wheel drive
• Super-HICAS four-wheel steering
• Wide body, flared guards
• Brembo brakes (V-Spec and later)
• The “real” GT-R

GTS-t (HCR32) / GTS25t (ECR33) / 25GT Turbo (ER34):

• RB20DET (R32) or RB25DET (R33/R34) single-turbo inline-six
• Rear-wheel drive only
• No ATTESA, no HICAS (on most variants)
• Standard Skyline body (not wide-body)
• Less powerful, lighter, cheaper

The GTS-t and GT-t are good cars in their own right, the RB25DET in particular is a strong engine with excellent tuning potential. But they are fundamentally different from the GT-R and worth a fraction of the price. Make sure you know what you are buying. Check the chassis code: BNR32, BCNR33, or BNR34 = GT-R. Anything else is not.

How do I verify a genuine GT-R?

Given the prices involved, verification is essential.

Check the chassis code: The compliance plate (on the firewall or door jamb) should show:

• R32 GT-R: BNR32
• R33 GT-R: BCNR33
• R34 GT-R: BNR34

Check the engine: The engine should be stamped RB26DETT on the rocker cover and engine block. The engine number should be visible on the right-hand side of the block.

Check the drivetrain: GT-Rs have a transfer case (visible underneath the car) and front drive shafts. A rear-wheel-drive Skyline will not have these components.

Check the VIN against Nissan records: Nissan Australia and Nissan Japan can verify the car’s original specification against the VIN/chassis number.

Check the import documentation: If the car was grey-imported, the import approval, compliance plate, and RAWS workshop details should be on file.

What does it cost to rebuild an RB26DETT?

Rebuilding an RB26 is not cheap, but the costs are well-documented:

Stock rebuild (standard internals, new bearings, seals, gaskets):

• Parts: $2,000-4,000
• Machine work (bore hone, head resurface, crack test): $500-1,000
• Labour: $2,000-4,000
• Total: $5,000-9,000

Performance rebuild (forged pistons, rods, bearings, head studs, upgraded gasket):

• Parts: $5,000-10,000
• Machine work: $1,000-2,000
• Labour: $3,000-6,000
• Total: $10,000-18,000

Full race build (stroker crank, forged internals, ported head, individual throttle bodies):

• $20,000-40,000+

These figures are for the engine only, they do not include turbo upgrades, fuel system, engine management, or installation.

What fuel should I use?

98 RON premium unleaded only. The RB26DETT has a compression ratio of 8.5:1, which is not particularly high, but the twin-turbo boost means the effective cylinder pressure is far higher. Running lower-octane fuel risks detonation, which destroys pistons and bearings.

Do not run E10 or E85 without a specific tune for it. E85 requires approximately 30% more fuel volume and completely different injectors and fuel pump calibration. Many high-power GT-R builds run E85 for its superior knock resistance, but this requires a dedicated fuel system and tune, you cannot just fill the tank with E85 and hope for the best.

Can I get parts for a GT-R in Australia?

Yes. The GT-R is exceptionally well-supported by both Nissan/Nismo and the aftermarket.

OEM and Nismo: Nissan continues to produce parts for the GT-R through its Nismo Heritage programme. This includes engine components, body panels, weatherstrips, and electronic parts. Availability varies, and some parts have long lead times, but the commitment from Nissan to support these cars is reassuring.

Aftermarket: The RB26DETT has the largest aftermarket of any Japanese engine. Companies like HKS, Tomei, Trust/GReddy, Turbosmart, Haltech, and Link all produce GT-R-specific components. There is virtually no modification that has not been tried, documented, and refined by the GT-R community.

Australian specialists: Multiple workshops across Australia specialise in GT-R servicing and modification. Melbourne, Sydney, and Brisbane all have GT-R specialists with decades of experience.

Wreckers: Used GT-R parts are available from wreckers but increasingly expensive as the cars appreciate. Common mechanical parts (brakes, suspension, driveline) are still reasonably priced. Body panels and unique GT-R trim pieces command premiums.

Why is the R34 GT-R so expensive?

Several factors combine to make the R34 the most expensive GT-R:

1. Low production numbers: Only 11,344 R34 GT-Rs were built (compared to 43,934 R32s). Supply is fundamentally limited.
2. Cultural status: The R34 is the poster car for an entire generation. Gran Turismo, Fast and Furious, and decades of media exposure have made it a cultural icon.
3. US market eligibility: R34 GT-Rs became legal for import into the United States under the 25-year rule starting in 2024. American demand at American prices has pushed the global market upward dramatically.
4. The “last of its kind” factor: The R34 is the last RB26-powered GT-R. The R35 that followed is a completely different car. The R34 represents the end of an era.
5. Special editions: The V-Spec II, M-Spec, and Nur editions were produced in very limited numbers and are genuine blue-chip collectibles.

Whether R34 prices represent fair value or a speculative bubble is debated. What is not debated is that supply is fixed and demand continues to grow.

Is the R33 GT-R really undervalued?

Relative to the R32 and R34, yes. The R33 is often called the “forgotten GT-R” because it lacks the R32’s racing provenance and the R34’s cultural cachet. But objectively, the R33 is a better car than the R32 in most measurable ways, faster around a circuit (the Nurburgring record proves it), more comfortable, better brakes, improved suspension geometry.

The R33’s “problem” is perception: it is seen as the transition model between two icons. In 2026, this perception makes the R33 the best value GT-R for someone who wants to drive their car rather than park it. Expect R33 values to continue rising as the R32 and R34 move further out of reach for most buyers.

What should I check before a track day?

The GT-R is a serious track car, but preparation matters:

1. Cooling: Fit an oil cooler if not already present. Check coolant level and condition. Consider a lower-temperature thermostat (68 degrees C).
2. Brakes: Fresh brake fluid (DOT 4 minimum, DOT 5.1 or Motul RBF600 preferred). Performance brake pads (Ferodo DS2500, DBA, or Project Mu). Check disc thickness, minimum thickness is stamped on each disc.
3. Turbo health: Confirm boost levels are correct and consistent. Listen for unusual turbo noises.
4. Oil: Fresh oil before every track day. 10W-40 or 10W-50 fully synthetic. Check oil level, the RB26 uses oil under sustained high-RPM driving.
5. ATTESA: Check transfer case fluid level. The ATTESA system works hard on track and generates heat. A transfer case cooler is a worthwhile addition for regular track use.
6. Tyres: Fresh, quality tyres in good condition. The GT-R is heavy and puts significant loads through its tyres. Semi-slicks (Yokohama A052, Bridgestone RE-71RS) transform the car’s grip.
7. Safety: Fire extinguisher, helmet, and gloves at minimum. Consider a harness and roll bar for serious track use.