Toyota Supra (A70), The Complete Buying Guide

Overview

The third-generation Toyota Supra, known as the A70 or MK3, was built from 1986 to 1993 and represents the moment Toyota got serious about building a genuine GT car. Underneath the pop-up headlights and angular 80s bodywork sits a chassis that was advanced for its era: independent double-wishbone suspension all round, available targa roof, and Toyota’s bulletproof 7M-series inline-six.

The chassis codes matter here. MA70 denotes the turbo model (7M-GTE). GA70 covers the naturally aspirated 7M-GE cars, and later JZA70 models received the 1JZ-GTE twin-turbo engine (primarily in Japan). In Australia, the vast majority of A70 Supras were grey imports, Toyota Australia never officially sold the turbo model. That means compliance history, import documentation, and previous workshop quality all matter enormously when buying.

In 2026, the A70 Supra sits in a fascinating market position. It’s the affordable Supra, dramatically cheaper than the MK4 A80, with a chassis that rewards modification and an engine bay that famously accepts 2JZ swaps. Clean, unmolested examples are becoming genuinely scarce. Modified cars dominate the market, and the quality of those modifications varies wildly.

What to Look For

Engine, 7M-GTE (Turbo)

The 7M-GTE is the heart of most A70 turbo Supras, and it has one notorious weakness that defines the entire ownership experience.

Head gasket failure: This is the single most important thing to check on any 7M-GTE. Toyota used an insufficient number of head bolts (10 instead of the 12 or 14 used by comparable engines) and the factory head gasket was not up to the task of containing boost pressure long-term. Symptoms: white smoke from the exhaust (coolant burning), coolant loss with no visible external leak, overheating under boost, milky residue on the oil filler cap, and exhaust gas bubbles in the coolant overflow tank.

The proven fix is a metal head gasket (Cometic or similar multi-layer steel) combined with ARP head studs. This upgrade has been the standard community solution for over two decades. If the seller claims the head gasket has been done, ask specifically whether ARP studs were used. If they say “it was just re-gasketted” with standard bolts, it will fail again. Budget $1,500-2,500 for a proper head gasket job with ARP studs, machined head, and new gaskets.

If the car you’re looking at hasn’t had this done, factor it in as an immediate cost. Every 7M-GTE will eventually need it.

Oil pressure at idle: The 7M is known for low oil pressure at idle, particularly when hot. This is caused by wear in the oil pump and a weak relief valve spring. Check with a mechanical gauge, the factory idiot light only comes on when you’re already doing damage. Below 10 psi at hot idle is concerning. An upgraded relief valve spring is a cheap fix ($30-50) and buys time, but a worn oil pump ultimately needs replacement.

CT-26 turbocharger: The stock turbo is a Toyota CT-26. It’s adequate for stock power (230 hp) but is the limiting factor for any serious performance build. Check for shaft play (grab the compressor wheel and wiggle, any perceptible movement is worn), oil leaks from the turbo seals (blue smoke on startup or deceleration), and boost creep (boost climbing beyond wastegate setting). A healthy CT-26 should hold 7-10 psi reliably.

Cooling system: Overheating under boost is common, particularly in Australian conditions. Check the radiator for leaks and blocked cores (feel for cold spots across the face). The fan clutch wears and stops engaging properly, spin the fan by hand with the engine off. It should have noticeable resistance. If it spins freely, the clutch is shot. Budget $150-300 for a fan clutch replacement, or convert to an electric fan setup.

Engine, 7M-GE (Naturally Aspirated)

The NA 7M-GE shares the head gasket vulnerability of the turbo engine, though it’s less prone to failure because there’s no boost pressure stressing the gasket. The same ARP stud upgrade applies. The 7M-GE makes approximately 200 hp stock, enough for relaxed cruising but nothing exciting by modern standards. Most serious enthusiasts either turbo the 7M-GE (possible but not cost-effective) or swap to a 2JZ.

Engine Swaps, What You’ll Actually Find

A significant percentage of A70 Supras on the market have been engine-swapped. The most common swaps:

2JZ-GTE: The most popular swap by far. The 2JZ from the A80 Supra drops into the A70 engine bay with aftermarket mounts and moderate fabrication. A well-executed 2JZ swap transforms the car. Check the quality of the work: neat wiring, proper engine mounts (not bodged brackets), functioning gauges, correct cooling system plumbing, and an ECU that actually suits the engine (standalone like a Haltech or Link, or a factory 2JZ ECU with correct sensors).

Poorly done 2JZ swaps are everywhere. Red flags: exposed wiring, zip ties holding critical components, no intercooler piping (on a turbo engine), mismatched injectors, no oil catch can, and “it was running when I parked it.”

1JZ-GTE: The smaller-displacement JZ swap. Lighter, rev-happier, and easier to fit than the 2JZ. Common in drift-focused builds. Less ultimate power potential than the 2JZ but a great street engine.

Swap cost context: A complete 2JZ-GTE swap, engine, gearbox, wiring, fabrication, tune, runs $8,000-15,000 if you’re doing the work yourself with a secondhand engine. Double that for a shop build. A running, driving 2JZ-swapped A70 that someone else has already sorted is often better value than buying a stock car and doing the swap yourself.

Transmission

W58 5-speed manual: The W58 was fitted to naturally aspirated models and is the weaker of the two common gearboxes. It handles stock NA power fine but will not survive serious turbo torque. If the car has been modified beyond mild bolt-ons, the W58 is a ticking time bomb. Synchro wear on 2nd and 3rd gear is common on high-mileage examples, check for crunching during quick shifts.

R154 5-speed manual: The R154 came in turbo models and is substantially stronger. It’s the go-to gearbox for builds up to roughly 500 hp (with a good clutch). Check for input shaft bearing noise (whining that changes with clutch pedal position) and synchro wear. The R154 is a known quantity, parts are available and rebuilds are well-documented.

V160 Getrag 6-speed: Rare and expensive. Found in some JDM twin-turbo models and the A80 Supra. If an A70 has a V160, someone has spent serious money. Expect to pay $4,000-8,000 for the gearbox alone secondhand.

Automatic: The A340E 4-speed auto was available. It’s adequate for stock power but not popular with enthusiasts. Most auto A70s have either been converted to manual or are priced at the bottom of the market. An auto-to-manual conversion using an R154 is straightforward, the A70 community has documented this thoroughly.

Clutch

For the R154, common clutch choices for 400-500 hp builds include RPS carbon clutches, ACT heavy-duty, and XTD options. The R154 clutch is a pull-type design, which limits options compared to push-type setups. Budget $800-1,500 for a quality clutch kit suitable for moderate power.

Suspension

The A70 uses double-wishbone suspension front and rear with coilover-style struts. Important: the factory setup uses pressed spherical bearings in the suspension arms, not rubber bushings. This is a commonly misunderstood point. Poly bush “upgrades” are actually a downgrade on these cars, you’re replacing a precision spherical bearing with a polyurethane bush that introduces deflection the original design didn’t have.

Check for worn spherical bearings by jacking the car up and checking for play in the wishbone pivots. Replacement bearings are available from specialty suppliers. If someone has already fitted poly bushes, it’s not a disaster, but know that the car won’t handle as well as it did with correct spherical bearings.

Coilover conversions are popular and well-supported. BC Racing, MCA, and Tein all make kits for the A70.

Body and Chassis

Targa roof: Many A70 Supras have a targa roof panel. The bolts that hold the targa panel in place are prone to seizing if the car has sat, especially in coastal areas. Check that the targa panel removes and reseals properly. Water leaks through worn targa seals are extremely common and cause interior damage. Replacement seals are available but fitting them properly is fiddly. If the headliner is stained or the carpets smell musty, suspect targa seal failure.

Rear subframe cracks: On high-mileage cars, particularly those that have been driven hard or had significant power increases, cracks can develop in the rear subframe. This is a structural issue. Get under the car and inspect the subframe mounting points and the subframe itself around the differential mount area. Cracks require professional welding repair, this is not a bolt-on fix.

Rust: The A70 is generally well-protected from the factory, but 30+ year old cars develop rust. Check the usual areas: lower door skins, rear quarter panels behind the wheels, boot floor, and around the fuel filler neck. Sills are vulnerable on cars that have lived near the coast. Any car that’s been sitting in grass or a paddock for years is suspect.

Pop-up headlights: The headlight motors and gearboxes wear. Check that both headlights raise and lower smoothly and at the same speed. The headlight covers should sit flush when down. Replacement motors and gearboxes are still available from Toyota and aftermarket suppliers, but they’re not cheap ($200-400 per side).

Electrical

ABS module: The ABS system on the A70 uses an older technology that’s prone to failure. The ABS module is expensive to replace and difficult to repair. If the ABS light is on permanently, the system has failed. Many owners simply disconnect it and run without ABS. This is common but worth knowing about for roadworthy purposes.

Power steering: A whining power steering pump under no load (e.g., at idle with the wheel straight) is a known issue. The pump’s internal seals wear and allow air into the system. The fix is either a pump rebuild or replacement ($300-500).

Wiring: On any modified A70, inspect the engine bay wiring carefully. Poor-quality aftermarket wiring is the source of endless problems, misfires, no-starts, intermittent gauge failures, and random electrical gremlins. If the wiring looks like a rat’s nest, factor in a full rewire ($1,000-3,000 for a quality aftermarket harness and installation).

Interior

The A70 interior has held up reasonably well on unmolested cars, but most available examples have been modified. Common issues: cracked dashboards (sun damage), worn leather on sport seats, broken power seat motors, and inoperative climate control (the vacuum-operated blend doors fail). Replacement interior parts are scarce, Japanese wreckers are the best source, and prices reflect the scarcity.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

7M-GTE (Stock or Mildly Modified)

• Project (not running, needs work): $8,000-15,000
• Driver (runs, needs attention): $15,000-25,000
• Good (sorted, drives well): $25,000-40,000
• Excellent (low km, unmolested): $40,000-60,000+

7M-GE (Naturally Aspirated)

• Project: $5,000-10,000
• Driver: $10,000-18,000
• Good: $18,000-30,000

2JZ-Swapped

• Budget swap (runs, needs sorting): $20,000-35,000
• Well-sorted swap (quality build, tuned): $35,000-60,000
• Show/race quality: $60,000-100,000+

The 2JZ-swapped market is highly variable. The quality of the swap matters more than the power figure. A well-built 400 hp car with neat wiring, proper cooling, and a professional tune is worth more than a claimed 600 hp car with bodged wiring and no dyno sheet.

Manual models command a 20-30% premium over automatics. Targa models are generally preferred over hardtops.

Running Costs

Parts availability: Mixed. Mechanical parts for the 7M engine are still available through Toyota (some items) and aftermarket suppliers. Body panels, interior trim, and electrical components are becoming scarce. Japanese importers and online communities are the best sources. For 2JZ-swapped cars, parts availability is excellent, the 2JZ has massive aftermarket support.

Servicing: Oil changes (15W-40 or 10W-40, approximately 5L capacity): $60-90 DIY. Full service including plugs, leads, filters: $200-400 DIY. Specialist workshop rates for Supra-specific work: $100-150/hour.

Fuel economy:

• 7M-GTE (stock tune): 12-15 L/100 km mixed driving
• 7M-GE: 10-13 L/100 km mixed
• 2JZ-GTE (mild tune): 12-16 L/100 km mixed
• All models: 98 RON recommended for turbo, 95 RON minimum

Insurance: Modified car insurance is essential for swapped cars. Agreed-value policies through specialist insurers (Shannons, Enthusiast Motor Insurance) are recommended. Budget $1,000-2,500/year depending on value and modifications.

Common repairs to budget for:

• Head gasket with ARP studs (7M): $1,500-2,500
• Fan clutch replacement: $150-300
• R154 rebuild: $1,500-3,000
• Targa seal replacement: $200-400
• Coilover kit (quality): $1,500-3,500
• Radiator upgrade (aluminium): $300-600
• Oil pump replacement (7M): $400-800

Which Variant?

If you want to keep it stock: Find a turbo 7M-GTE with the R154 manual. Get the head gasket done properly with ARP studs if it hasn’t been already. These are appreciating as unmolested examples disappear. The stock turbo car with good maintenance is a rewarding GT cruiser.

If you want a build platform: The A70 chassis with a 2JZ-GTE is one of the best value performance cars you can build. The chassis is lighter than the A80, parts are cheaper, and the community knowledge base for this swap is decades deep. Start with the best chassis you can find, a rust-free, straight body with good paint is worth paying for, because the engine and running gear will be replaced anyway.

If you want cheap entry: An NA 7M-GE with the W58 manual is the most affordable way into Supra ownership. It won’t be fast, but the chassis dynamics are good and the car looks the part. Just know that the W58 won’t survive a turbo conversion, you’ll need an R154 swap before adding boost.

Walk-Away Red Flags

• Head gasket failure symptoms with no intention to fix (walk away or negotiate hard)
• 2JZ swap with exposed wiring, no intercooler, or “it needs a tune”
• Rear subframe cracks
• Extensive rust in structural areas (sills, subframe mounts, chassis rails)
• No compliance plate or import documentation (grey import with no paper trail)
• Automatic with a modified engine, someone cut corners
• Seller can’t explain what modifications have been done

The Verdict

The A70 Supra is the thinking enthusiast’s Supra. It doesn’t have the cultural cachet of the MK4, which means prices are lower and you’re buying the car because you actually want to drive it, not because you saw it in a movie. The chassis is genuinely good, the aftermarket support is deep, and the 2JZ swap path is so well documented that it’s almost paint-by-numbers.

Buy the best chassis you can afford. Do the head gasket properly if it’s a 7M car. And if you’re building a 2JZ swap, spend the money on quality wiring and a proper tune, that’s where good builds separate from money pits.