Volvo 164, The Complete Buying Guide

Overview

The Volvo 164 is Sweden’s answer to the European executive sedan, a stretched, six-cylinder sibling to the 140-series that competed with BMW, Mercedes, and Jaguar in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Built from 1968 to 1975, it shares much of its structure with the 144 but wears a distinctive front clip inspired by Jan Wilsgaard’s P358 prototype and carries a B30 inline-six (essentially a B20 with two extra cylinders and twin Stromberg carburetors).

You buy a 164 for the combination of Volvo durability, inline-six smoothness, and a certain understated swagger. The seats are excellent, the interior feels more upmarket than the 140, and there’s wood trim in the dash. It’s genuinely pleasant for long highway runs.

The catch? The 164 rusts from the inside out, parts are getting scarce (especially body panels), and the six-cylinder drivetrain means more complexity than a redblock four. A 165 estate was never built, the handful you see are home conversions. This is a car for someone who wants to stand out slightly without shouting about it.

What to Look For

Body and Rust

The 164 can rot badly. It rusts from the inside outward, so a small blister often hides catastrophic rot. Budget accordingly or walk away.

Deal-breakers:

• Rusty chassis legs or subframe mounts. The engine can literally fall out if these fail.
• Rotten sills. The three-piece construction (outer, inner, and centre section) means if one is gone, the others are likely compromised.
• Serious rust around the windscreen or rear window. This spreads into the A-pillars and roof structure. Not cheap to fix.

Check carefully:

• Front wings, especially above the headlights, around the indicators, and in the wheel arches. Inner splash guards rot badly. Replacement wings are expensive and hard to source.
• Area around the grille, standing water between the chrome surround and body causes rot. Check for damage from past crashes; this is difficult to repair correctly.
• Hood, radiator support, and battery box, all rust-prone. Check under the hood thoroughly.
• Sills and door bottoms, the 164 uses a partial door seal, so water gets in. Blocked drain holes accelerate rot. Check the doorway above the sills.
• Rain gutter, very rust-susceptible on the 164.
• Rear wheel arches and spare wheel container, common rot spots. Check the trunk floor and the area between the rear lights. The fuel tank should be solid with no leaks.
• Floor panels, jack supports, front crossmember, inner sills, and steering box mounts, all critical structural areas.

Check door and bonnet hinges. The bonnet hinges mount to thin metal that bends easily. If replaced, ensure it was done correctly.

Test with magnets if you suspect filler. Bring a screwdriver if there’s excessive underseal. Don’t buy a car with hidden rust unless you can weld or have deep pockets.

Mechanical

The B30 six-cylinder is generally stout but more complex than a B18 or B20. Parts are getting harder to find.

Engine:

• Check for oil leaks from seals and gaskets. Not expensive parts, but labour-intensive to replace.
• Look at oil level and condition. The B30 should idle with the occasional slight dip in revs, too smooth often means wear.
• Check the exhaust colour, grey is fine, blue smoke means oil consumption (worn rings or valve seals), black smoke means rich running.
• Listen for knocking or tapping. Could be lifters (cleanable), but could also be something deeper.
• The twin Stromberg carbs are simple enough but need regular attention. Fuel injection wasn’t available on the 164.

Gearbox:

• Manual boxes (M40, M41) are robust. Check for smooth shifting and no grinding.
• Automatics are less common and more fragile. Test for smooth engagement and no slipping.

Suspension and steering:

• The 164 uses similar suspension to the 140, but check for worn bushings, leaking dampers, and play in the steering.
• Steering box mounts can rust, check carefully.

Brakes:

• The 164 has a dual-circuit system (much safer than the Amazon), but check for pulling, spongy pedal, or uneven wear. Discs all round.

Electrical

The 164 uses a 12V system. Electrics are generally reliable but age brings gremlins.

• Check all lights, indicators, wipers, heater fan, and gauges.
• Odometer and trip meter failures are common. Mileage may have been reset during a cluster swap or repair. Cross-check service history and interior wear.
• Look for evidence of bodged wiring or aftermarket additions.

Interior

The 164 interior is a step up from the 140. Seats are very good, but trim and plastics suffer with age.

• Seats, check for sagging, torn upholstery, and broken seat frames. The 164’s seats are some of the best Volvo made, but worn examples are hard to restore.
• Dashboard, check for cracks (especially around the top and near the vents). Wood trim should be intact.
• Door cards, headliner, and carpets, check for water damage, mould, and wear. Water leaks around the windscreen or door seals are common.
• Pedal area, check for rust (inside and out). This is a structural concern, not just cosmetic.

Price Guide (Australia)

Rough pricing as of 2025 (AUD):

• Project / non-runner: $2,000-$5,000
  Needs major welding, mechanical work, or both. Only for the brave or well-equipped.

• Driver-quality runner: $8,000-$15,000
  Runs and drives, some rust, possibly tatty paint or interior. Usable but needs attention.

• Good, solid example: $18,000-$28,000
  Straight body, good paint, sorted mechanically. Some patina acceptable.

• Excellent / near-concours: $30,000-$45,000+
  Restored or exceptionally original. Show-quality paint, spotless interior, no rust. Rare.

Prices vary with condition, history, and how much recent work has been done. A car with receipts for a recent respray and mechanical refresh will command a premium. Rust-free cars are worth significantly more, the difference between a $10,000 driver and a $25,000 solid car is often the cost of a complete restoration.

Running Costs

Parts availability:
Mechanical parts (engine, brakes, suspension) are still available, often shared with the 140. Body panels are getting scarce and expensive. Trim and interior parts are difficult.

Servicing:
Straightforward if you or your mechanic know old Volvos. The B30 is robust but needs regular maintenance. Oil changes, carb tuning, and ignition work are DIY-friendly if you’re handy.

Fuel economy:
Expect 18-24 mpg (11.8-9.8 L/100km) depending on how you drive. Not terrible, not great.

Insurance:
Agreed-value classic insurance is sensible. Premiums are generally reasonable.

Rust prevention:
If you live in a coastal or high-humidity area, or anywhere salt is used in winter, treat the car annually with cavity wax or oil spray. The 164 will last decades if protected; it will dissolve in a few years if not.

Which Variant?

There isn’t much choice, it’s all 164, with minor year-to-year updates. Early cars (1968-1971) have slightly different trim and smaller bumpers. Later cars (1972-1975) got the updated dash from the 1973 140-series, new bumpers, and minor safety improvements.

Buy the best-condition car you can afford, regardless of year. Rust and overall condition matter far more than model year. If you have a choice, a late car (1973-1975) will have the updated dash and better crash protection, but honestly, just buy the one that’s not rotten.

Avoid project cars unless you can weld and source rare parts. The 164 is harder to restore than a 140 because body panels are scarce and expensive.

The Verdict

The Volvo 164 is for the Volvo enthusiast who wants something slightly more special than a 140 but doesn’t want the complexity or cost of a Mercedes or BMW. It’s smooth, comfortable, and properly built, but rust and parts scarcity mean you need to be selective. Buy the best one you can find and budget for rust prevention. If you find a solid, well-sorted example, you’ll have a genuinely pleasant classic that still works as a car. If you buy a rotten one cheap, you’ll have an expensive nightmare. Choose wisely.