Volvo 242/244/245, Full Specifications

Key Specifications

Spec	Value
Production Years	1974-1993
Body Styles	242 (2-door coupe), 244 (4-door sedan), 245 (5-door wagon)
Engine(s)	B17, B19, B21, B23 inline-4; B28 V6; D24 diesel I6
Displacement	2.1L (130 ci), 2.3L (141 ci) most common; also 2.0L (121 ci), 2.8L V6, 2.4L diesel
Power	~100-115 hp (naturally aspirated); 125-162 hp (turbocharged)
Torque	Not confirmed
Transmission	4-speed manual with Laycock overdrive, 5-speed manual, 4-speed automatic
Drive	Rear-wheel drive
0-100 km/h	Not confirmed
Top Speed	Not confirmed
Fuel Economy	Not confirmed
Weight	~1,360 kg (3,000 lbs) approximate
Length / Width / Height	Not confirmed
Wheelbase	Not confirmed

Engine Variants

B21/B23 Red Block (Most Common):
The 2.1L B21 ran from 1976-1983, making around 100 hp. By 1986 it was bumped to 2.3L (B23), producing ~114 hp. Both are understressed, overbuilt, and good for 250,000+ miles if maintained. These motors are known to weep oil from the front cover and rear crank seal, not a crisis, just something to monitor.

B17/B19:
Earlier 2.0L variants found in early 240s. Less common in the US market.

B28 V6:
A 2.8L V6 option. Rare, not widely discussed in sources.

D24 Diesel:
A 2.4L inline-6 diesel. Slow, but built like a tank.

Turbocharged B21FT/B23FT:
Factory turbo models ran 5 psi (early) or higher with an intercooler (later). Early turbo cars made 125 hp; intercooled versions produced 162 hp. The turbo is understressed, same overbuilt block, so they’re long-lived. Watch for grey smoke on acceleration, which indicates a turbo pushing oil. Intercooled cars were either factory-spec or dealer-installed as a kit, so installations vary.

Transmission Options

4-Speed Manual with Laycock Overdrive:
Electrically or hydraulically actuated overdrive on third and fourth. Electrical or hydraulic issues can make the overdrive cut in and out. Generally robust, but can pop out of gear or leak.

5-Speed Manual:
Regarded as the most bulletproof option. Stout, direct, reliable.

4-Speed Automatic:
Reliable but saps power. Makes the car feel slower. Still, they hold together.

None of these gearboxes are particularly fragile. The five-speed is the one to have if you want to row your own gears without drama.

Notable Features

• Safety pioneer: US government called it the safest car in the world at one point. NHTSA even bought a fleet for crash testing.
• Shearing motor mounts: Volvo was one of the first to design motor mounts that shear on impact, pushing the engine under the car instead of through the firewall.
• High Mileage Club: Factory-run club, entry at 100,000 miles, badges every 50,000 miles thereafter, all the way to 2 million.
• Modular platform: Parts swap easily across years and body styles. You can mix and match bits from 1975-1993 cars with minimal drama.
• Dana 30 rear axle: Essentially unkillable. Ring and pinion make noise as they age, but the axle is durable.
• Composite fuses: These can fail and still look fine. Keep spares. They’re a common cause of no-start issues.
• PCV system: Flame trap, oil separator box, breather hoses. If neglected, they clog and cause oil leaks at the front cam seal, rear crank seal, and oil cap.
• Climate control system: Notorious for complexity. Common failure is the heater blower motor. If it’s noisy or dead, replace the motor, switch, and multi-stage resistor as a set, saves headaches.
• Mass airflow sensor (MAF): On LH 2.2 and 2.4 cars, the MAF is fragile and sits in a flexible air inlet boot. That boot cracks, allowing unmetered air in, causing idle issues and fuel enrichment codes. Clean the MAF with proper MAF cleaner spray, never touch the sensor wires.
• Fuel pump relay: Located in different spots depending on year. This relay controls the electrical impulse for most of the fuel system. When it fails, you get no-start, stalling, or (rarely) the car won’t shut off because the relay is stuck. Common failure point.
• Main power supply fuse (LH system): 25-amp fuse in a white plastic holder. Prone to melting or corroding at the socket. Causes flat tows. Upgrade to a waterproof-style fuse holder to prevent future drama.
• Headlight relay: Notorious for overheating and melting the connector. Check it. If the connector is melted or corroded, replace the relay and the wiring. This happens on nearly every 240.
• Front suspension: Independent. Bushings wear but don’t necessarily make the car drive badly, so people run them worn. Check the leading bushings in the trailing arms, they’re difficult to replace without the factory tool, but they make a big difference.
• Rear suspension: Live axle with coils, trailing arms, Panhard rod. Simple, durable.
• Steering: Recirculating ball. Vague by modern standards, but direct enough for the era.