MGA, The Complete Buying Guide

Overview

The MGA (1955-1962) was MG’s leap into the modern era. Where the T-Types were prewar designs with upright grilles and wooden-framed bodies, the MGA was a sleek, streamlined sports car with an envelope body, a proper steel structure, and performance that could embarrass cars costing twice the price. It was designed by Syd Enever at Abingdon and was directly influenced by a special-bodied competition car (EX 182) that raced at Le Mans in 1955. The result was one of the most beautiful sports cars ever made, a car that looked fast standing still.

Over 101,000 MGAs were built across the production run, making it a genuine commercial success. For the Australian buyer in 2026, the MGA represents a sweet spot in the classic MG market: more modern and more capable than the T-Types, more characterful and more collectible than the early MGB, and backed by a parts supply and club network that rivals anything in the classic car world.

The standard MGA used the BMC B-series 1,489cc (later 1,588cc) inline-four, a pushrod engine shared with various Austin, Morris, and Wolseley saloons. It’s a robust, simple, and well-understood unit. The rare Twin Cam version used a bespoke DOHC cylinder head and was aimed squarely at competition, it’s dramatically more valuable and considerably more demanding to own.

Prices for standard MGAs in Australia range from $35,000 for a rough driver to $80,000+ for a concours-quality car. Twin Cams command substantial premiums, $80,000 to well over $150,000 for the right car. The sweet spot for most buyers is a 1600 or 1600 Mark II roadster in good driver condition: around $45,000-$60,000.

Which MGA?

MGA 1500 (1955-1959)

The original. BMC B-series 1,489cc engine with 68 bhp, twin SU H4 carburettors, and a four-speed gearbox. Available as a roadster (soft-top) and, from 1956, as a coupe (fixed-head with proper wind-up windows and a more weatherproof cabin). The 1500 is the most common MGA and offers the purest experience. Its lower power output is offset by its lighter weight, the 1500 roadster weighs just 934 kg.

Prices: $35,000-$70,000 AUD.

MGA 1600 (1959-1961)

The engine grew to 1,588cc with 80 bhp, a meaningful improvement that makes the car more relaxed at highway speeds and more responsive when overtaking. Front disc brakes replaced the 1500’s drums, which is a significant safety upgrade. The 1600 is the better everyday car. External identification: the 1600 has separate amber front indicator lamps (the 1500’s indicators were integrated into the headlamp housings).

Prices: $40,000-$75,000 AUD.

MGA 1600 Mark II (1961-1962)

The final iteration. Engine output increased to 86 bhp through a higher compression ratio and revised cylinder head. The Mark II also received a recessed radiator grille (slightly different frontal appearance), revised tail lights, and detail improvements. Only built for about 18 months, so numbers are lower, around 8,700 roadsters and coupe combined.

Prices: $45,000-$80,000 AUD. The Mark II commands a slight premium as the most developed standard MGA.

MGA Twin Cam (1958-1960)

The Twin Cam is a different animal entirely. The DOHC 1,588cc engine produces 108 bhp, a dramatic increase over the pushrod unit. Centre-lock Dunlop disc wheels (the “pepperpot” design), four-wheel disc brakes, and a competition-oriented character set it apart from the standard car. Only 2,111 were built.

The Twin Cam engine is notorious for reliability problems, high oil consumption, piston damage, and head gasket failure when driven hard on high compression. Many Twin Cams were converted to pushrod engines during their lives, and a car with its original Twin Cam engine intact is increasingly rare and valuable.

Prices: $80,000-$150,000+ AUD. A complete, numbers-matching Twin Cam with its original engine is a significant collector car.

MGA 1600 De Luxe (1960-1962)

A curious variant: the Twin Cam body (with its centre-lock disc wheels and four-wheel disc brakes) fitted with the standard pushrod 1,588cc engine. Created to use up surplus Twin Cam bodies after the Twin Cam was discontinued. Around 395 roadsters and 82 coupe were built. The De Luxe offers the Twin Cam’s superior brakes and wheels without the temperamental engine. Rare and desirable.

What to Look For

Rust, The Primary Concern

The MGA’s biggest enemy is rust. The steel body and chassis are vulnerable to corrosion, and a rusty MGA is an expensive MGA. The good news is that comprehensive repair panels are available for every rust-prone area. The bad news is that fitting them properly requires skill and time.

Critical areas, check thoroughly:

• Sills (rocker panels): The sills are structural, they contribute to the body’s rigidity. Rust here is common and serious. Probe the sills from underneath and along the bottom edge. Bubbly paint, soft metal, or visible perforation means replacement. Repair panels are available. Cost: $500-$1,500 per side for supply and fit.
• Floor pans: Water enters through deteriorated seals and sits on the floor. Check from underneath, poke the metal with a screwdriver. Replacement floor pans: $300-$600 per side.
• Front crossmember: The front crossmember supports the engine and front suspension. Rust here is structural and dangerous. Inspect from below, any significant corrosion is a walk-away unless you’re prepared for a major repair.
• Rear spring hangers: Where the rear leaf springs attach to the body. Corrosion weakens the mounting points and can lead to the spring pulling through the body. Inspect carefully from underneath.
• Door skins: The lower sections of the doors rust from the inside due to blocked drain holes. Open each door and check the bottom edge.
• Boot (trunk) floor: Water ingress through the boot seal causes corrosion.
• A-post bases: The junction of the A-post (windscreen pillar) and the sill is a moisture trap.

Coupe-specific:

• Roof pillars and window surrounds: The coupe’s fixed roof has more seams and joints where moisture can enter.
• Rear window surround: Check for bubbling paint indicating rust underneath.

Engine (BMC B-Series)

The pushrod B-series is a fundamentally tough engine. It was used in millions of BMC vehicles and is extremely well-understood.

Oil leaks: Universal on B-series engines. The rear main seal, rocker cover gasket, and timing cover all weep. Severity matters, a light weep is normal, a steady drip needs attention.

Oil pressure: Should be at least 50 psi at cruising speed when warm, 20 psi minimum at idle. Low oil pressure means worn main and big-end bearings. A bottom-end rebuild is $2,000-$4,000.

Crankshaft rumble: A deep knocking sound from the bottom end under load indicates worn main bearings. This needs immediate attention.

Head gasket: B-series head gaskets fail with overheating. Check for coolant in the oil (milky residue under the filler cap), oil in the coolant (oily film in the header tank), or white smoke from the exhaust. Cost to replace: $800-$1,500.

Carburettors: Twin SU H4 carburettors. Check for worn throttle shafts (air leaks cause rough idle and poor fuel economy). Rebuild kits: $80-$150 per carb. Worn shafts can be rebushed by a specialist: $150-$300 per carb.

Electrics (Lucas)

The MGA uses Lucas electrics, the same system that gives every British car owner grey hair. The fundamentals are sound, but seventy-year-old wiring insulation crumbles, connections corrode, and earth points deteriorate.

• Check all lights, indicators, wipers, and gauges.
• Check the dynamo charge rate (charge light should go out above idle).
• Inspect wiring for brittle insulation and bare copper.
• Complete rewiring harnesses: $300-$500 from Autosparks or British Wiring.

Gearbox

The four-speed gearbox is robust but first gear is non-synchromesh on the 1500 (synchromesh on all gears from the 1600 onwards). Check for:

• Grinding on downshifts (worn synchros, especially 2nd)
• Jumping out of gear (worn selector forks or detents)
• Excessive noise in any gear (worn bearings)

A gearbox rebuild costs $1,000-$2,000. Replacement gearboxes are available.

Wheel Bearings

MGA front wheel bearings are a known wear item. Check by jacking up the front and rocking the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock. Any play indicates worn bearings. Replacement: $100-$200 per side.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

MGA 1500 Roadster

• Project (needs restoration): $25,000-$35,000
• Driver (usable, cosmetic issues): $35,000-$50,000
• Good (well-maintained): $50,000-$65,000
• Excellent (restored/concours): $65,000-$80,000

MGA 1600/1600 Mark II Roadster

• Project: $30,000-$40,000
• Driver: $40,000-$55,000
• Good: $55,000-$70,000
• Excellent: $70,000-$80,000+

MGA Coupe (all models)

• Typically 10-15% less than equivalent roadster. Coupes are less fashionable but more practical.

MGA Twin Cam

• Project/incomplete: $50,000-$70,000
• Driver: $80,000-$100,000
• Good/restored: $100,000-$150,000+
• Concours (numbers matching): $150,000+

Running Costs

Parts availability: Excellent. Moss Motors, SC Parts, Abingdon Spares, and the MGCC all carry comprehensive MGA inventories. Body panels, engine parts, suspension components, electrical items, weather equipment, chrome trim, it’s all available. The B-series engine shares parts with millions of BMC vehicles, making engine components particularly easy to source.

Servicing: The MGA is straightforward to service at home. Oil changes, valve adjustments, carburettor tuning, and basic suspension maintenance are all within a competent home mechanic’s ability. Professional servicing: $200-$400 per service at a British car specialist.

Fuel: 91 RON unleaded with lead replacement additive (if original valve seats), or 95/98 RON if hardened seats are fitted. Consumption: approximately 9-11 L/100 km.

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car policies recommended. Budget $500-$1,000 per year depending on value and usage.

The Verdict

The MGA is one of the great affordable classics. It’s beautiful, it’s fun to drive, it has a magnificent parts supply and club network, and it occupies a value sweet spot between the more expensive T-Types and the less charismatic early MGBs.

The 1600 or 1600 Mark II roadster is the pick of the range for a driver, front disc brakes, a bit more power, and all-synchro gearbox make it the most usable variant. The 1500 is the purist’s choice if you prefer the original specification. The coupe is undervalued and more practical, consider it if you want to use the car in all weather.

Buy the best body you can afford. Rust is the MGA’s Achilles heel, and a rust-free car is worth a significant premium over one that needs metal work. Mechanical problems are all solvable with off-the-shelf parts. Body corrosion is solvable too, but it’s time-consuming and expensive.

Join the MGCC before you buy. Talk to owners. Inspect several cars before making a decision. The right MGA will reward you with one of the finest driving experiences in the classic car world.