Volvo 122S Amazon, Known Issues and Common Problems
Overview
The Volvo 122S Amazon is a tough, pragmatic car from an era when Swedish engineering meant overbuilt and underfussed. This isn’t a delicate restoration project, it’s a car that was designed to survive Swedish winters and still be running when your grandkids learn to drive. That said, age and entropy catch up with everything.
Most issues you’ll face are wear-related, not design flaws. The B18 or B20 engine is bulletproof if maintained. The real threats are rot, tired suspension, neglected brakes, and electrical gremlins born of decades-old wiring. If you’ve bought a 122S, you’re getting into a car with 60+ years of potential deferred maintenance. Accept that. Budget for it. Don’t be shocked when the “little rust” turns out to be structural cancer.
The good news: these cars are simple. You can fix almost everything with basic tools, a Gregory’s manual, and patience. The bad news: parts are often NLA from Volvo, so you’ll be scrounging eBay, Volvo specialists, or learning to fabricate.
Engine
Oil consumption
What happens: You’re burning through a quart of oil every 500-1,000 km. Blue smoke on startup or under load.
Why it happens: Worn piston rings, valve stem seals, or cylinder bore glaze. The B18/B20 engines are incredibly durable, but after 50+ years and unknown maintenance history, expect wear. Ring gaps open up, seals harden and crack.
How to fix it:
- Minor consumption (1 qt per 1,500 km): top up regularly, don’t stress. If compression is still decent (check with a gauge, should be 135-150 psi, within 10% across cylinders), ride it out.
- Moderate to heavy: rebuild or swap. Rings, hone, new valve stem seals. Budget $1,500-3,000 for a proper rebuild if you pay someone. DIY cuts that in half.
- Part numbers for rebuild kits vary by engine code; verify your B18 vs B20 variant before ordering.
Severity: Minor annoyance if you’re vigilant. Needs attention if it’s more than a quart per 1,000 km or you see smoke.
Carburetor flooding or poor idle
What happens: Hard starting, fuel smell, rough idle, stalling. Sometimes floods and won’t start at all.
Why it happens: SU carburetors (common on B18/B20) have needle valves, float bowls, and jets that gum up or wear out. Ethanol fuel accelerates varnish buildup. Float height drifts. Worn throttle shafts allow air leaks.
How to fix it:
- Strip and rebuild the carbs. SU rebuild kits are cheap (~$40-60 per carb). Replace needles, seats, gaskets, diaphragms.
- Check float height with a ruler: should be around 15-16 mm from gasket face to top of float (verify with your manual).
- Inspect throttle shaft play. If worn, you’ll need new shafts or carb replacement.
- Clean jets with carb cleaner and compressed air. Don’t drill them out.
- Ethanol-resistant fuel line and fresh fuel filter mandatory.
Severity: Needs attention. Won’t strand you immediately, but makes the car miserable to drive.
Overheating
What happens: Temp gauge creeps into the red. Coolant boils over. Steam.
Why it happens: Clogged radiator cores, weak water pump, collapsed lower radiator hose, slipping fan belt, stuck thermostat, or head gasket failure (rare on these engines if not previously overheated).
How to fix it:
- Start simple: check coolant level, inspect hoses (especially lower, should be reinforced), tighten or replace fan belt.
- Verify thermostat opens (Volvo spec is typically 82°C). Test by boiling in a pot of water with a thermometer.
- Flush radiator. If it’s original, it’s probably half-blocked with 60 years of silt and scale. Consider a re-core or replacement (IPD, FCP Euro stock reproduction units).
- Water pump: inspect for bearing play or weeping. Rebuild kits exist, but a new pump is often easier (~$80-150).
- If all else fails, pressure test the system and check for head gasket or cracked head. B18/B20 heads crack rarely, but it happens if previously cooked.
Severity: Urgent if temp spikes. Can crack the head or warp it if you keep driving. Stop immediately if it redlines.
Ignition timing and misfires
What happens: Pinging under load, backfiring, flat spots, poor throttle response.
Why it happens: Worn distributor (points, condenser, cap, rotor), incorrect timing, fouled or wrong-spec spark plugs.
How to fix it:
- Set timing with a timing light. Factory spec is usually 10° BTDC at idle (verify in manual for your engine).
- Replace points and condenser (~$20 kit). Gap points to 0.4-0.5 mm.
- Inspect distributor cap and rotor for carbon tracking, cracks, or corrosion. Replace both (~$30-50).
- Use correct plugs: Champion N9Y or equivalent. Gap 0.6-0.7 mm.
- Consider electronic ignition conversion (Pertronix Ignitor, ~$100). Eliminates points, more reliable, better cold starts.
Severity: Needs attention. Misfires wreck fuel economy and can damage cats (if fitted, unlikely on a 122S).
Cooling System
Leaking radiator
What happens: Puddles of coolant under the car. Overheating.
Why it happens: Radiators don’t last forever. Solder joints crack, cores corrode, plastic end tanks (if later replacement) split.
How to fix it:
- If it’s a minor leak, try a quality stop-leak (Bar’s Leaks pellets, not the liquid junk). Temporary fix only.
- Proper fix: re-core or replace. Reproduction radiators ~$200-400 from IPD or FCP Euro.
- Check radiator cap: should hold 0.9-1.0 bar (13-15 psi). Weak cap = boil-over.
Severity: Needs attention. Can’t drive far if it’s leaking badly. Leads to overheating and head damage.
Heater core leaking
What happens: Sweet smell in cabin. Wet carpet on passenger side. Fogged windows that won’t clear. Sometimes visible coolant dripping from under dash.
Why it happens: Heater cores are made of thin copper tubing. They corrode from the inside out, especially if the system hasn’t been flushed in decades.
How to fix it:
- Bypass it temporarily: loop a hose from heater inlet to outlet under the hood. You lose cabin heat but can still drive.
- Replace it. Dash-out job on a 122S. Budget 6-10 hours if you’ve never done it. New cores ~$80-150 from specialists.
- Flush the system before installing a new core or it’ll clog immediately.
Severity: Needs attention. You can bypass and live without heat, but it’s miserable in winter and the coolant will destroy your carpet.
Fuel System
Fuel pump failure (mechanical)
What happens: Car cranks but won’t start. Sputters and dies. No fuel pressure.
Why it happens: Mechanical fuel pumps on the B18/B20 are cam-driven. Diaphragms crack, valves stick, springs weaken. Ethanol accelerates degradation.
How to fix it:
- Check fuel pressure: should be around 2-4 psi (verify spec). Use a T-fitting and pressure gauge.
- Rebuild kit
$20-30. Or replace pump outright ($60-100, ATE or Bosch). - If you’re sick of mechanical pumps, fit an inline electric pump (Facet or equivalent, ~$50-80). Mount low, near tank, with a filter before it.
Severity: Urgent if it fails completely. You’re not driving anywhere. Easy roadside fix if you carry a spare pump.
Fuel tank rust
What happens: Sediment in fuel filter. Clogged jets. Fuel starvation. Sometimes visible rust flakes in the filter.
Why it happens: Steel tanks rust from the inside. Water condensation, old fuel, decades of sitting.
How to fix it:
- Drop and inspect the tank. If surface rust only, clean with phosphoric acid or a commercial tank liner kit (POR-15, Kreem).
- If perforated or heavily scaled, replace. Reproduction tanks ~$300-500.
- Fit an inline fuel filter between tank and pump. Replace it annually if the tank’s sketchy.
Severity: Needs attention. Will strand you eventually when jets clog or pump fails from debris.
Electrical
Weak or no charging
What happens: Battery warning light on. Battery dies overnight. Dim headlights at idle.
Why it happens: Generator (not alternator unless swapped) brushes worn, regulator failed, or bad connections.
How to fix it:
- Check belt tension first. Loose belt = no charge.
- Test output: should see ~13.5-14.5V at battery with engine running if converted to alternator. Generator output is lower, ~12-13V.
- If generator: rebuild or swap to alternator. Alternator conversion kits available (~$150-300). Much more reliable.
- Inspect all wiring to the generator/alternator. Corroded terminals are common. Clean and use dielectric grease.
Severity: Needs attention. Dead battery will strand you. Alternator swap highly recommended.
Lucas electrics (if fitted on UK-spec cars)
What happens: Everything electrical is temperamental. Lights flicker. Indicators won’t self-cancel. Wipers die mid-wipe.
Why it happens: Lucas components earned their reputation. Age, corrosion, poor earths.
How to fix it:
- Upgrade where possible. Swap to Hella or Bosch components.
- Clean all earth connections. Add extra earth straps from engine to chassis, body to chassis.
- Replace old cloth-wrapped wiring if it’s crumbling.
Severity: Minor annoyance to needs attention, depending on what fails. Won’t usually strand you, just irritates.
Fusebox corrosion
What happens: Intermittent electrical faults. Circuits dead until you wiggle the fusebox.
Why it happens: Old ceramic or Bakelite fuseboxes corrode. Contacts oxidize.
How to fix it:
- Pull each fuse, clean with contact cleaner and a small wire brush.
- Upgrade to a modern blade-type fusebox if you’re rewiring (~$30-50).
- Check fuse ratings: don’t uprate them to “fix” a fault, find the real problem.
Severity: Needs attention. Can cause fire if fuses don’t blow properly.
Transmission and Drivetrain
Gearbox oil leaks
What happens: Oil spots under the car. Low gearbox oil. Hard shifting or grinding.
Why it happens: Worn seals (input shaft, rear output, selector shaft). Age and heat harden seals.
How to fix it:
- Top up gearbox oil (SAE 80W-90 GL-4, not GL-5, GL-5 eats brass synchros). Check level via fill plug on side of gearbox.
- Replace leaking seals. Input shaft seal requires gearbox removal. Rear seal can be done with gearbox in situ if you drop the driveshaft.
- If multiple seals are weeping, consider a full reseal kit (~$50-80).
Severity: Needs attention. Low oil wrecks synchros and bearings. Expensive rebuild if ignored.
Worn synchros (especially 2nd gear)
What happens: Grinding or crunching into 2nd gear, especially when cold or shifting quickly.
Why it happens: B
rass synchro rings wear. Second gear takes the most abuse in daily driving.
How to fix it:
- Short term: double-clutch into 2nd. Match revs.
- Long term: gearbox rebuild. Synchro rings ~$30-50 each, but labour is the killer if you pay someone.
- Ensure you’re using GL-4 oil, not GL-5. GL-5 accelerates brass wear.
Severity: Needs attention. Synchros will only get worse. Can lock you out of 2nd entirely if they shatter.
Worn propshaft universal joints
What happens: Clunk when shifting from drive to coast or vice versa. Vibration at certain speeds.
Why it happens: UJs wear out. Grease dries up, needle bearings pit.
How to fix it:
- Jack up the car, grab the propshaft and twist. If there’s any play, UJs are done.
- Replace UJs (~$30-60 for a pair). Press out old ones, press in new ones. You’ll need a UJ press or a heavy vice and sockets.
- Grease via zerk fittings (if fitted) every oil change.
Severity: Needs attention. A failed UJ will drop your propshaft on the road. Dangerous.
Suspension and Steering
Worn ball joints
What happens: Clunking over bumps. Wandering steering. Uneven tyre wear.
Why it happens: Ball joints wear. Rubber boots crack, grease escapes, water and dirt get in.
How to fix it:
- Jack up front end. Grab wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock, rock it. Visible play = bad ball joint.
- Replace both lowers (~$40-80 each). Uppers less common to fail but check them.
- You’ll need a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Don’t reuse the nut, fit a new nyloc.
Severity: Urgent if there’s significant play. A separated ball joint means loss of control.
Sagging front springs
What happens: Front end sits low. Poor ride. Headlights aimed at the ground.
Why it happens: Springs sag over decades. All 122S springs are tired by now unless already replaced.
How to fix it:
- Measure ride height from ground to bottom of wheel arch. Compare side to side.
- Replace springs. IPD sells uprated springs (~$100-150 per pair). OEM-spec springs available from FCP Euro.
- Do shocks at the same time. Bilstein B6 or Koni are good upgrades (~$80-120 each).
Severity: Needs attention. Affects handling and braking. Not unsafe unless bottoming out constantly.
Steering box wear
What happens: Slack at the steering wheel. Car wanders. Needs constant correction.
Why it happens: Worm and sector gears wear. Steering boxes can be adjusted, but once adjusted all the way, they need rebuild or replacement.
How to fix it:
- Adjust first: there’s an adjuster screw on top of the steering box. Tighten until play is gone, but don’t bind it.
- If adjustment doesn’t help, rebuild (~$200-400 for a kit) or source a used box.
- Check steering column UJ (rag joint) too, they wear and cause slop.
Severity: Needs attention. Wandering on the motorway is exhausting and unsafe.
Brakes
Spongy brake pedal
What happens: Pedal feels soft. Goes to the floor. Brakes work but feel vague.
Why it happens: Air in the system, old fluid (absorbs water, boils easily), or worn master cylinder.
How to fix it:
- Bleed brakes. Start furthest from master cylinder (RR, LR, RF, LF). Use fresh DOT 4 fluid.
- If pedal still spongy, inspect master cylinder for internal leaks. Rebuild kit
$30-50, or replace ($80-150). - Check brake hoses: originals are likely 60 years old. Bulging hoses = spongy pedal. Replace all four flexible hoses (~$20 each).
Severity: Urgent. Spongy brakes = longer stopping distances. Don’t ignore this.
Rear wheel cylinders leaking
What happens: Fluid on inside of rear wheels. Spongy pedal. Shoes saturated with brake fluid.
Why it happens: Wheel cylinder seals perish. Pistons corrode and score the bores.
How to fix it:
- Replace wheel cylinders (~$15-30 each). Dirt cheap, no point rebuilding unless you’re a masochist.
- Replace rear shoes at the same time, fluid contamination ruins them.
- Bleed the system after fitting.
Severity: Urgent. Leaking cylinders = rear brakes inoperative. Dangerous.
Front disc brake judder
What happens: Steering wheel shakes when braking. Pulsing pedal.
Why it happens: Warped discs from overheating or uneven tightening of wheel nuts.
How to fix it:
- Measure disc runout with a dial gauge. Max ~0.1 mm.
- If warped, skim (machine) discs if thickness allows. Minimum thickness usually stamped on disc.
- If too thin or heavily scored, replace (~$40-80 per disc).
- Fit new pads at the same time (~$30-60 per axle). Bed them in properly: 20-30 gentle stops from 60 km/h, then let cool.
Severity: Needs attention. Judder won’t stop you, but it’s unpleasant and can crack discs.
Handbrake cable seized
What happens: Handbrake doesn’t hold. Or won’t release.
Why it happens: Cables rust and seize. Lack of use accelerates it.
How to fix it:
- Lubricate cables with penetrating oil (Inox, WD-40, etc.). Work the lever back and forth.
- If seized solid, replace cables (~$30-60 for a set).
- Adjust handbrake at the equalizer under the car. Should engage 3-5 clicks.
Severity: Needs attention. No handbrake = parking on hills is sketchy. Also an MOT/inspection failure in many places.
Body and Rust
Sills and jacking points
What happens: Rust perforation. Holes. Jack goes through the floor when you try to lift the car.
Why it happens: These are drain areas. Water, salt, mud accumulate. Sills on every 122S are suspect unless restored.
How to fix it:
- Inspect with a screwdriver. Poke everywhere. If it goes through, it’s structural rot.
- Proper repair: cut out rot, weld in new metal. IPD and Volvo specialists sell repair panels (~$100-300 per side).
- Surface rust: wire brush, treat with rust converter, paint.
- Don’t bodge this with filler. Sills are structural. If rotten, the car will fold in a crash.
Severity: Urgent. Structural rust is a deal-breaker. Walk away or budget $2,000+ for proper repairs.
Front inner wings / suspension turrets
What happens: Rust at shock absorber mounts. Cracks in metal. Shock towers separating from inner wing.
Why it happens: Road salt, trapped moisture, poor drainage.
How to fix it:
- Cut out rot, weld in repair sections. Volvo specialists sell patch panels.
- If shock mount is rusted through, do not drive the car. Shock can punch through the bonnet.
Severity: Urgent. This is critical structural metalwork.
Floor pans
What happens: Rust holes in the floor. You can see the road.
Why it happens: Water ingress, lack of underseal, decades of entropy.
How to fix it:
- Small holes: cut out, weld in patches.
- Large areas: replace entire floor section. Repair panels available.
- POR-15 or similar rust encapsulator on underside after repair.
Severity: Needs attention. Structural integrity compromised. MOT failure.
Bootlid and rear panel rust
What happens: Bubbling paint. Rust along bottom edge of
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