Overview

The Toyota Celica was Toyota's first proper sports coupe, and it arrived in 1970 with a clear debt to the Ford Mustang -- a compact, stylish body with a range of engines from economy to performance. The first-generation Celica (A20 series, 1970--1977) established the formula, and the second generation (A40/A50 series, 1977--1981) refined it. Together, they represent the golden age of the affordable Japanese sports coupe.

In Australia, the Celica was enormously popular. Toyota's local dealer network was extensive, the cars were well-built and reliable, and the combination of sporty styling with Toyota practicality appealed to buyers who wanted excitement without the risks of British or European ownership. The RA23 (first-gen coupe), RA28 (first-gen liftback), and RA40 (second-gen) designations are familiar to any Australian enthusiast of the era.

The twin-cam 18R-G engine is the jewel. Making 110 horsepower from 2.0 litres with a rev ceiling above 7,000 rpm, the 18R-G transforms the Celica from a pleasant coupe into a genuine sports car. The single-cam 18R is the workhorse -- less exciting but essentially bulletproof.

For the 2026 Australian buyer, the early Celica market has matured. Clean first-gen coupes with the twin-cam engine command $25,000+ AUD, and the best examples are approaching $40,000. Second-gen cars are more affordable but rising. The Celica's combination of Toyota reliability, sporting character, and nostalgic appeal makes it one of the most satisfying Japanese classics you can own.

What to Look For

Rust -- Better Than British, Not Immune

Toyota's build quality was significantly better than British manufacturers of the same era, and the Celica's corrosion protection was above average for the early 1970s. That said, these cars are now 45--55 years old, and no amount of factory quality can entirely prevent half a century of corrosion.

Structural rust areas to inspect carefully:

• Floor pans: Check the driver's and passenger's footwells by lifting the carpet. The floors are not as thin as British cars but do corrode, particularly where water enters through deteriorated seals. Cost: $500--1,500 per section.

• Inner guards: The front inner fender area around the strut towers traps road spray. Rust here can compromise front suspension mounting. Cost: $800--2,000 per side.

• Lower quarter panels: The area behind the rear wheels, particularly on the coupe, collects road spray and mud. Cost: $500--1,500 per side.

• Sills: Box-section sills corrode from inside when drain holes block. Cost: $1,000--2,500 per side.

Common cosmetic rust areas:

• Front fender edges (lower trailing edge and around headlights)
• Door bottoms
• Boot lid and tailgate (liftback) edges
• Windscreen surround
• Rear valance

The Celica rusts, but it generally rusts more slowly and less aggressively than British or European cars of the same vintage. A car that has been garaged and maintained may have surprisingly solid metalwork.

Engine

The Celica was offered with several engines across its production run. In the Australian market, the primary engines were:

18R (2.0L single-cam, ~97 hp): The standard engine for most Australian-market Celicas. It is a cast-iron block, aluminium head, single overhead cam four-cylinder with a two-barrel carburettor. The 18R is not exciting -- it is adequate, reliable, and undemanding. It will run for 300,000+ km with basic maintenance. This is the Toyota workhorse engine.

18R-G (2.0L twin-cam, ~110 hp): The performance engine. The "G" denotes a twin-cam head with hemispherical combustion chambers and twin side-draft carburettors (Mikuni-Solex or later Aisin). The 18R-G is a significantly more exciting engine than the 18R -- it revs more freely, breathes better, and has a notably different character at high RPM. The twin-cam head is the key component and the reason twin-cam Celicas command a premium.

2T-G (1.6L twin-cam, ~115 hp): Used in some first-generation Celica TA22 models in certain markets. The 2T-G is a high-revving engine that makes its power at the top of the rev range. It is lighter than the 18R-G but produces less torque. In the Australian market, the 2T-G Celica is less common.

What to check on all engines:

• Oil pressure: Should be 40--60 psi at 3,000 rpm when warm, 15+ psi at idle. Low pressure indicates bearing wear.
• Timing chain noise: A rattle from the front of the engine on cold start indicates a worn tensioner or stretched chain. Replacement: $150--400.
• Oil leaks: The 18R-series engines leak from valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, and rear main seals with age. Some seepage is normal; dripping is not.
• Head gasket condition: Check for milky oil (coolant contamination) and white exhaust smoke. The aluminium head on a cast-iron block is susceptible to head gasket failure after overheating.
• Overheating: Check the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and hoses. Aluminium radiator upgrade recommended for Australian conditions: $250--500.

Twin-cam specific checks (18R-G / 2T-G):

• Cam timing: The twin-cam engines use a timing chain with additional sprockets for the twin camshafts. Ensure the timing is correct -- incorrect timing causes poor running and can damage valves.
• Carburettor condition: The twin side-draft carburettors (Mikuni-Solex or similar) are more complex than the single-cam's two-barrel unit. Check for smooth throttle response, even idle, and proper synchronisation between the two carburettors.
• Head condition: The twin-cam head is the valuable component. Check for cracks, warping, and cam journal wear.

Gearbox

5-speed manual: The standard gearbox for most Australian Celicas. Toyota gearboxes of this era are excellent -- smooth, precise, and durable. The W50 and W55 5-speed units are well-regarded. Check for smooth engagement in all gears and listen for bearing noise.

4-speed manual: Used on earlier and base-model cars. Adequate but the 5-speed is preferred for highway cruising.

Automatic (3-speed): Available on some models. As with all sporting cars, the automatic robs the Celica of its sporting character. Avoid unless the car is otherwise exceptional.

Suspension

First generation (A20): MacPherson struts at the front, live rear axle with 4-link location and coil springs. The front suspension is effective; the live rear axle is the weak point -- it can hop under hard cornering (especially on bumpy surfaces) and limits ultimate grip. That said, it is a simple, robust setup that is adequate for road driving.

Second generation (A40): Similar front MacPherson struts, with a revised 4-link live rear axle. The A40's suspension is slightly more refined than the A20's but fundamentally similar.

What to check:

• Worn shock absorbers (bounce test)
• Perished bushings (clunking, vague steering)
• Sagging springs (check ride height)

Body Styles

First-gen coupe (RA23): The iconic Celica body. Clean lines, balanced proportions, and a look that has aged beautifully. The coupe is the lighter, stiffer body style.

First-gen liftback (RA28): Added in 1973. The liftback is the more practical choice with a usable rear cargo area. The body is distinctive -- some love it, some prefer the coupe. The liftback was popular in Australia.

Second-gen coupe (RA40): A larger, more refined body that moves the Celica upmarket. The coupe is clean and elegant. Less raw than the first-gen but more comfortable.

Second-gen liftback (RA40/RA60): Similar advantages to the first-gen liftback -- more practical, distinctive styling.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

First Generation -- RA23 Coupe

• Project (major rust or mechanical needs): $8,000--12,000
• Driver (runs, some issues): $12,000--20,000
• Good (presentable, maintained): $20,000--30,000
• Excellent (twin-cam, restored/outstanding): $30,000--45,000

First Generation -- RA28 Liftback

• Project: $6,000--10,000
• Driver: $10,000--18,000
• Good: $18,000--28,000
• Excellent: $28,000--40,000

Second Generation -- RA40 Coupe/Liftback

• Project: $4,000--8,000
• Driver: $8,000--15,000
• Good: $15,000--22,000
• Excellent: $22,000--35,000

Twin-cam models: Add $5,000--10,000 to the above prices for cars with the 18R-G or 2T-G twin-cam engine.

Running Costs

Servicing: Toyota reliability makes the Celica one of the cheapest Japanese classics to maintain. Oil change: $30--50 DIY. Full service: $80--150 DIY, $250--450 at a specialist.

Fuel: 9--12 L/100 km on 91 or 95 RON. The 18R is frugal; the twin-cam is slightly thirstier.

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car policy, $400--800/year.

Parts: Mechanical parts for the single-cam 18R are well-supplied through Toyota specialists and the aftermarket. Twin-cam 18R-G parts are harder to find -- the twin-cam head, specific carburettors, and intake manifold are the scarce items. Body panels are increasingly scarce for both generations.

Which Variant?

Generation: The first-gen (A20/RA23/RA28) has the rawer driving experience and the more iconic styling. The second-gen (A40/RA40) is more refined, more comfortable, and cheaper to buy.

Engine: The twin-cam (18R-G) is the one to have if you want the full Celica sporting experience. It transforms the car from a pleasant coupe into a genuine sports machine. The single-cam (18R) is bulletproof and adequate for relaxed cruising.

Body: The coupe is lighter, stiffer, and arguably more attractive. The liftback is more practical and has its own cult following.

Gearbox: The 5-speed manual is the only correct choice. Smooth, precise, and a pleasure to use.

The Verdict

The Toyota Celica is the most reliable classic Japanese sports coupe you can buy. Toyota's engineering quality means these cars survive better than their competitors, run longer between services, and forgive neglect more gracefully than anything from Britain or even from other Japanese manufacturers of the era.

The first-gen coupe with the twin-cam engine is the collector's choice -- a beautiful car with a brilliant engine and genuine Toyota build quality. The second-gen is the value choice -- more car for less money, with the same fundamental reliability. Either generation delivers a driving experience that combines sporting character with the peace of mind that only Toyota can provide.

Find one with a solid body, preferably with the twin-cam engine, and enjoy one of the most satisfying and worry-free classic car ownership experiences available.