MG F & TF, Common Problems and Solutions
Overview
The MG F (1995—2002) and its successor the MG TF (2002—2011) are mid-engined, rear-wheel-drive sports cars that brought affordable open-top motoring back to the MG badge. They are genuinely fun to drive — the mid-engine layout gives sharp, balanced handling that punches well above their price point. But they carry a reputation, and that reputation is largely deserved.
The defining weakness is the Rover K-series engine’s head gasket. It is not a question of if it will fail — on an unmaintained car, it is a question of when. The good news is that every problem on these cars is well understood, well documented, and fixable. The further good news is that the TF addressed the worst of the F’s issues, particularly the Hydragas suspension and some of the cooling system design.
In Australia, these cars were sold in modest numbers. They are not common, but those that survive tend to be owned by enthusiasts who understand the car’s needs. Parts availability is reasonable — most mechanical components are shared with the Rover 200/400/25/45 range, and the UK aftermarket is extensive. Shipping from the UK is straightforward for anything you cannot source locally.
This guide covers both the MGF and MG TF. Where a problem is specific to one model, it is noted.
Head Gasket Failure (K-Series Engine)
This is the problem. It is the first thing anyone mentions when you say “MGF” or “MG TF,” and it is the single issue that has defined these cars’ reputation and suppressed their values for two decades. Understanding it is essential.
What Happens
Coolant loss with no visible external leak. The expansion tank level drops over weeks or months and needs topping up. White emulsion (often called “mayonnaise”) appears under the oil filler cap or on the dipstick. White smoke from the exhaust, particularly on start-up or under load. The engine overheats, sometimes suddenly. The cooling system becomes pressurised — the expansion tank feels hard, hoses are rock-solid when the engine is warm, and coolant may blow out through the overflow.
In the worst case, the engine overheats catastrophically, warps the cylinder head, and cracks it. At that point you are looking at a head replacement on top of the gasket.
Why It Happens
The Rover K-series 1.8-litre engine has a fundamental design weakness in its head gasket sealing arrangement. The gasket is located by plastic dowels that degrade with heat cycling over time. As these dowels soften and lose their grip, the gasket can shift fractionally — just enough to break the seal between a coolant passage and a cylinder bore, or between a coolant passage and an oil gallery.
The original head gasket is a single-layer steel design that does not tolerate any movement. Combined with the plastic dowels, it creates a situation where the gasket can “creep” out of position over thousands of thermal cycles.
The problem is accelerated significantly by any overheating event. The K-series engine uses long head bolts that stretch when the engine overheats, reducing clamping force on the gasket. These are torque-to-yield (stretch) bolts — they are designed to be used once and are permanently deformed by the torquing process. An overheating event stretches them further, and they never recover.
The mid-engine layout compounds the issue. The cooling system is complex, with long coolant runs between the rear-mounted engine and the front-mounted radiator. Air locks are easy to introduce and difficult to purge. Any air pocket in the system creates a hot spot, which accelerates gasket failure.
How to Fix It
The definitive fix is a multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket with steel locating dowels, replacing the original single-layer gasket and plastic dowels. The MLS gasket is more tolerant of minor surface irregularities and the steel dowels do not degrade.
Recommended gaskets: Payen or Elring MLS gaskets. Both are well-proven in the K-series community. Avoid cheap pattern-part gaskets — this is not the place to save $50.
When doing the head gasket, also replace:
- Head bolts — these are stretch bolts, single-use only. New ARP studs ($200—350) are the ultimate upgrade and are reusable, but quality OEM-spec bolts ($40—80) are also fine
- Thermostat — fit a new one while you are in there
- Water pump — the additional labour to replace it later is not worth the gamble
- Timing belt and tensioner — same logic, and the K-series is an interference engine
- Coolant rail O-rings — these are known leak points and are accessible during the job
- Have the head skimmed (resurfaced) at an engineering shop to ensure flatness
Cost: Parts for a thorough job run $800—1,500 AUD. Fitted by a specialist, expect $2,000—3,500 AUD depending on what else is found. DIY is achievable for a competent home mechanic — the engine is accessible in the mid-engine bay, and the job is well documented in the community.
Prevention: Maintain the cooling system religiously (see next section). Monitor coolant level weekly. Fit a coolant temperature gauge you trust — the standard gauge is vague and slow to react. Some owners fit an aftermarket coolant pressure warning system that alerts before the temperature gauge moves.
Severity
Critical. Every K-series owner must understand this problem and either fix it proactively or monitor for the symptoms obsessively. A $2,500 head gasket job done properly is far cheaper than a $4,000+ engine rebuild caused by ignoring the early signs.
Cooling System Issues
The cooling system on the MGF and TF is the head gasket’s enabler. Every cooling system fault accelerates head gasket failure. Maintaining this system is the single most important thing you can do for the car’s longevity.
Expansion Tank Cracking
What happens: Coolant weeps or sprays from a crack in the plastic expansion tank. The tank may split suddenly under pressure, dumping all the coolant. Coolant level drops with no apparent engine fault.
Why it happens: The expansion tank is made from plastic that becomes brittle with age and heat cycling. After 15—25 years, these tanks are living on borrowed time. The pressurised cooling system subjects the tank to constant stress.
How to fix it: Replace the expansion tank ($40—80 AUD). Inspect it at every service — look for discolouration, stress marks, and hairline cracks, particularly around the cap seat and hose connections. Some owners carry a spare tank in the boot as insurance.
Severity: Urgent. A split tank dumps all coolant, which leads directly to overheating and potential head gasket failure.
Thermostat Failure
What happens: The engine overheats, particularly at sustained speeds. Alternatively, the engine never reaches operating temperature (thermostat stuck open), which causes poor fuel economy and increased wear.
Why it happens: The thermostat sticks — either closed (causing overheating) or open (causing under-temperature running). The wax pellet mechanism degrades over time.
How to fix it: Replace the thermostat ($20—40 AUD). Use an 82-degree unit. Some owners fit an 88-degree thermostat for Australian conditions, but the consensus in the community is that 82 degrees provides better thermal headroom and reduces the risk of head gasket stress. Replace every 5 years as preventive maintenance.
Severity: Critical if stuck closed. A stuck thermostat can cook the engine within minutes in traffic.
Water Pump Failure
What happens: Coolant leak from the pump weep hole. Bearing noise (grinding or whining) from the pump area. Overheating from reduced coolant flow if the impeller corrodes or the bearing seizes.
Why it happens: The water pump bearings and seal wear. The impeller on early K-series pumps was plastic and could degrade, breaking apart and blocking coolant passages. Later pumps used metal impellers.
How to fix it: Replace the water pump ($60—120 AUD for the pump). Always do this when replacing the timing belt — the labour overlaps significantly. Ensure you get a pump with a metal impeller.
Severity: Urgent. A failed water pump leads to rapid overheating.
Coolant Hose Deterioration
What happens: Coolant leaks from split or perished hoses. Hoses feel soft, swollen, or show surface cracking.
Why it happens: Rubber hoses degrade with age and heat. The mid-engine layout means the cooling system has extensive hose runs between the front radiator and rear engine, with multiple connections and potential failure points.
How to fix it: Replace all coolant hoses as a set ($100—250 AUD for a complete kit). Silicone hose kits ($300—500 AUD) are a worthwhile upgrade — they last indefinitely and handle heat better than rubber.
Severity: Urgent. Any hose failure results in coolant loss and overheating.
Air Locks After Coolant Work
What happens: After any work that opens the cooling system, the engine overheats despite the system being full of coolant. The heater blows cold air. Temperature gauge spikes erratically.
Why it happens: The mid-engine layout creates natural high points in the cooling system where air pockets become trapped. Unlike a conventional front-engined car where the radiator cap is the highest point, the MGF/TF’s plumbing runs up, over, and down through the car. Air pockets prevent coolant from circulating through the affected section.
How to fix it: Bleeding the system requires patience. Park the car nose-up on a slope if possible. Fill slowly with the heater set to maximum. Run the engine with the expansion tank cap off until no more bubbles appear. Squeeze the hoses to help dislodge air pockets. Some owners fit a bleed valve at the highest point in the system to make this process easier. Allow the engine to cool completely and repeat the process — air pockets often reveal themselves on the second fill cycle.
Severity: Important. An incompletely bled cooling system creates hot spots that accelerate head gasket failure.
Hydragas Suspension (MGF Only)
The MGF uses the Hydragas suspension system — a gas-and-fluid interconnected system inherited from the Metro and shared with the MGF’s platform donor, the Rover 100. The MG TF replaced this with conventional coil springs and dampers.
What Happens
The car gradually sinks — the ride height drops over months or years. The ride becomes harsh, with a pronounced jolt over bumps. One corner may sit lower than the others. Handling becomes unpredictable, with the car feeling disconnected and wallowy.
Why It Happens
The Hydragas units contain pressurised nitrogen gas separated from a fluid chamber by a rubber diaphragm. Over time, the gas permeates through the diaphragm and the pressure drops. The units are interconnected front-to-rear on each side, so a loss of pressure in one unit affects the balance of the entire car.
The system cannot be topped up with a conventional pump — it requires a specialist Hydragas pump that injects fluid under high pressure, which in turn compresses the gas to restore the correct ride height.
How to Fix It
Option 1: Re-gas the Hydragas system. This requires finding a specialist with the correct equipment. In Australia, this is not straightforward — very few workshops have a Hydragas pump. Cost: $200—400 if you can find someone to do it. The fix is not permanent — the units will lose pressure again over time.
Option 2: Convert to coil springs. Aftermarket conversion kits replace the Hydragas units with conventional coil springs and dampers. This is the permanent solution and is what most long-term MGF owners eventually do. The conversion gives predictable, adjustable suspension with no ongoing maintenance concerns. Kits from suppliers like TF Supersport or Techsport run $600—1,000 AUD plus fitting. The conversion is reversible if originality matters.
Severity
Moderate to urgent depending on how far the system has deteriorated. A badly sagging MGF handles poorly and can be dangerous, particularly if one side has lost significantly more pressure than the other. The coilover conversion is strongly recommended for any MGF that will be driven regularly.
Note: The MG TF has conventional coil spring suspension from the factory and does not suffer from this problem.
Subframe Corrosion
What Happens
Corrosion on the front and rear subframes. Surface rust is expected on older cars, but deep pitting, scale, and structural thinning are the concern. The rear subframe is critical — it carries the engine, gearbox, and rear suspension.
Why It Happens
The subframes are steel and were not galvanised from the factory. Road spray, salt (less of a concern in Australia than the UK), and trapped moisture cause corrosion. The rear subframe has enclosed sections that trap water and corrode from inside.
What to Look For
- Surface rust and scale on the subframe rails
- Bubbling or flaking paint that reveals deeper corrosion beneath
- Soft or thinned metal around mounting points — prod with a screwdriver
- Cracking or distortion at the engine mount and suspension pickup points
- Weeping rust stains running down from enclosed box sections
How to Fix It
Minor surface corrosion can be treated — wire brush, rust converter, and protective paint. Structural corrosion requires subframe replacement. Replacement subframes are available from specialists in the UK and are shipped to Australia regularly. Budget $500—1,000 AUD for a subframe plus $1,500—3,000 for the labour to swap it — the rear subframe swap requires removing the engine and gearbox.
Severity
Critical if structural. A corroded rear subframe carrying an engine is a catastrophic failure waiting to happen. In Australia, subframe corrosion is less common than in the UK (no road salt), but cars imported from the UK should be inspected carefully. Any car that has spent time in coastal areas should also be checked.
Clutch and Gearbox
Clutch Replacement
What happens: Clutch slip under load (engine revs rise without corresponding acceleration), heavy or inconsistent clutch pedal feel, difficulty selecting gears.
Why it happens: Normal clutch disc wear over 80,000—120,000 km.
How to fix it: Clutch replacement on the MGF/TF is a major job. The rear subframe must be lowered or dropped entirely to access the bellhousing, which means 8—12 hours of labour. This is not a job for a casual home mechanic. Budget $1,500—2,500 AUD fitted, including a quality clutch kit. When in there, replace the rear main seal, clutch slave cylinder, and inspect the flywheel for scoring or hot spots. If the flywheel needs machining, add $80—150.
Severity: Needs attention when symptoms appear. A slipping clutch gets worse rapidly once it starts.
PG1 Gearbox — Second Gear Synchro Wear
What happens: Crunching or resistance when shifting into second gear, particularly on cold downshifts from third to second.
Why it happens: The PG1 gearbox is generally robust, but the second gear synchromesh takes the most punishment in normal driving. The brass synchro ring wears thin and can no longer match shaft speeds.
How to fix it: Gearbox rebuild with new synchro rings. Cost: $800—1,500 for a rebuild. The gearbox must come out, which means the subframe comes down — similar labour to a clutch job. Do the clutch at the same time if it has any age on it. A replacement gearbox from a breaker ($400—800) is sometimes more economical than a rebuild.
Severity: Needs attention. Double-clutching on downshifts buys time. Not dangerous, but annoying and progressive.
CVT (Steptronic) — Avoid
What happens: Juddering, slipping, erratic behaviour, complete failure.
Why it happens: The Continuously Variable Transmission offered on the MGF is unreliable, expensive to repair, and fundamentally unsuited to a sports car. The CVT robs the car of its driving character and adds a complex, failure-prone component.
How to fix it: If the CVT fails, replacement or rebuild is extremely expensive — often more than the car is worth. Many owners convert to a manual gearbox, which requires a new gearbox, clutch, pedal box, and wiring changes.
Severity: If you are buying an MGF or TF, buy a manual. If you already own a CVT car and it still works, consider selling before it fails. This is blunt advice, but the community consensus is unanimous.
Electrical Issues
Window Regulator Failure
What happens: The electric windows stop working, move slowly, or drop into the door with a bang.
Why it happens: The window regulator mechanism wears and breaks. The cable-driven design is prone to fraying cables and failed motors.
How to fix it: Replace the window regulator assembly ($80—200 AUD). The job requires removing the door card and inner skin. Straightforward but fiddly. Budget 1—2 hours per side.
Severity: Annoying. Not dangerous, but a window that will not close is a security and weather issue.
Central Locking Actuator Failure
What happens: One or more doors fail to lock or unlock with the remote or central locking switch. The actuator may click but not move the lock mechanism.
Why it happens: The electric actuators wear out their internal motors and gears. The linkage rod connections can also come loose.
How to fix it: Replace the actuator ($40—80 AUD). Accessible through the door card.
Severity: Minor. Inconvenient but not a safety issue.
Instrument Cluster Failures
What happens: Instrument backlighting goes dark. The LCD display (odometer, trip) fades or dies. Individual gauges read incorrectly or stop working.
Why it happens: Backlighting bulbs blow — these are small bulbs soldered to the circuit board. The LCD display loses contrast as the connection between the screen and the board degrades. Solder joints on the cluster circuit board crack from thermal cycling and vibration.
How to fix it: The cluster can be removed and repaired. Replacement bulbs are cheap ($10—20 for a set). LCD repair requires resoldering the connector — a job for someone comfortable with a fine-tip soldering iron. Full cluster rebuild services are available from specialists for $150—300. A replacement cluster from a wrecker: $50—150.
Severity: Needs attention. A dead speedometer is an engineering failure at registration time.
ECU (MEMS) Solder Joint Failure
What happens: Intermittent running issues — misfires, rough idle, stalling, failure to start. Fault codes that come and go. The engine management light illuminates intermittently.
Why it happens: The Rover MEMS (Modular Engine Management System) ECU is mounted in the engine bay and suffers from thermal cycling. Solder joints on the circuit board crack over time, creating intermittent connections.
How to fix it: The ECU can be removed and the circuit board resoldered by a specialist. This is a well-known repair in the MGF/TF community. Cost: $100—250 for professional resoldering. A replacement ECU must be matched to the immobiliser — you cannot simply swap in a second-hand unit without having it coded to the car.
Severity: Urgent if symptoms are present. Intermittent engine management faults are frustrating to diagnose and dangerous if the engine stalls unexpectedly.
Alarm and Immobiliser Issues
What happens: The alarm triggers randomly. The immobiliser will not disarm, preventing the car from starting. The key fob stops communicating with the car.
Why it happens: The factory alarm/immobiliser system ages poorly. Key fob batteries die. The receiver unit in the car loses sensitivity. Wiring connections corrode. On older MGFs, the system can enter a fault mode that requires dealer-level diagnostics to reset.
How to fix it: Start with a fresh key fob battery. If the system is persistently problematic, a specialist can reprogram or bypass the immobiliser. Some owners fit an aftermarket alarm and bypass the original system entirely. Cost: $50—300 depending on the approach.
Severity: Frustrating. Being locked out of your own car by a malfunctioning alarm is a uniquely irritating experience.
Roof and Hood Issues
Soft Top Fabric Deterioration
What happens: The roof fabric fades, becomes porous, and eventually tears. The rear window clouds, yellows, and cracks. Water leaks through seams and stitch holes. The roof no longer sits flat when erected.
Why it happens: Australian UV is brutal on soft top materials. The PVC or mohair degrades, shrinks, and loses flexibility. The plastic rear window oxidises and becomes opaque.
How to fix it: A new soft top hood: $500—800 AUD for a quality aftermarket unit. Mohair is more durable and better-looking than PVC but costs more. A glass rear window conversion eliminates the fogging plastic. Professional fitting is recommended — the roof stretches over the frame and must be aligned correctly to seal properly. Fitting cost: $200—400.
Severity: Needs attention. A leaking roof makes the car impractical in rain and allows water into the cabin, which causes electrical issues and interior damage.
Roof Mechanism Linkage Seizure
What happens: The roof is stiff to operate, will not latch in the up position, or will not fold fully into the well behind the seats.
Why it happens: The pivots and linkages in the roof mechanism seize from lack of lubrication. Dirt and moisture accumulate in the joints.
How to fix it: Strip, clean, and lubricate all pivot points with white lithium grease. In severe cases, individual linkage components may need freeing with penetrating oil or replacing. Lubricate the mechanism every 6 months as preventive maintenance. Cost: $0—50 for lubricant and effort.
Severity: Minor but inconvenient. A stiff roof mechanism discourages you from using the car as the open-top sports car it was designed to be.
TF Hard Top Stress Cracks
What happens: Hairline cracks appear around the hard top mounting points and along stress lines in the fibreglass.
Why it happens: The hard top flexes during driving and over speed bumps. The mounting points concentrate stress. Fibreglass fatigues and cracks at these stress risers over time.
How to fix it: Repair cracks with fibreglass filler and respray the affected area. Ensure mounting points are correctly adjusted and not over-tightened — excessive clamping force accelerates cracking. Cost: $100—400 for repair and paint touch-up.
Severity: Cosmetic primarily, but unrepaired cracks allow water ingress and grow over time.
Timing Belt
The K-series 1.8 is an interference engine. If the timing belt breaks, the pistons hit the valves. The valves bend. The head comes off, and the repair bill is measured in thousands. This is entirely preventable.
Change Interval
Every 5 years or 50,000 km, whichever comes first. No exceptions. If you buy a car with no record of the last belt change, replace it immediately — the cost of a belt change is trivial compared to the cost of bent valves.
What to Replace
- Timing belt
- Tensioner bearing (the tensioner pulley bearing fails and can cause belt derailment even if the belt itself is fine)
- Water pump (the pump is driven by the timing belt and failure causes belt contamination with coolant, which destroys the belt)
- Auxiliary drive belt while you are in there
Cost
$300—600 AUD fitted for belt, tensioner, and water pump. DIY is feasible — access on the mid-engine car is better than you might expect, with the engine bay open to the rear.
Severity
Critical. This is non-negotiable preventive maintenance. A snapped belt destroys the engine’s top end.
Oil and Coolant Leaks
Rocker Cover Gasket
What happens: Oil weeps from under the rocker cover, running down the side of the engine. Burning oil smell as it hits the exhaust manifold.
Why it happens: The rocker cover gasket hardens and shrinks with age and heat. The K-series rocker cover uses a rubber gasket that has a finite life.
How to fix it: Replace the rocker cover gasket ($15—30 AUD). Simple job — remove the rocker cover, clean the mating surfaces, fit the new gasket. Budget 30 minutes.
Severity: Minor. But oil on the exhaust manifold is a fire risk and makes a mess.
Rear Main Seal
What happens: Oil leak from the junction of the engine and gearbox. Oil visible on the underside of the bellhousing.
Why it happens: The rear crankshaft oil seal wears and hardens with age.
How to fix it: Replacing the rear main seal requires separating the engine from the gearbox, which on a mid-engine car means dropping the subframe. This is a “do it while you are in there” job — combine it with clutch replacement to share the labour cost. Seal cost: $15—30. Labour: included in the subframe-down work.
Severity: Needs attention if the leak is heavy. Minor weeps can be monitored.
Coolant Rail O-Rings
What happens: Coolant weeps from the connections along the coolant rail on top of the engine.
Why it happens: The K-series uses a coolant rail with O-ring sealed joints. These O-rings harden and lose their seal over time.
How to fix it: Replace the O-rings ($10—20 for a set). The coolant rail must be removed, which is straightforward. Do this as part of any head gasket job. Cost: minimal for parts, 1—2 hours labour.
Severity: Needs attention. Coolant leaks from the rail reduce system volume and can drip onto the exhaust, creating steam that may be mistaken for head gasket failure.
Oil Cooler Hose Connections
What happens: Oil weeps or leaks from the hose connections at the oil cooler.
Why it happens: The rubber hoses and their seals degrade with age and heat. The connections can also work loose from vibration.
How to fix it: Replace the hoses and seals. Tighten connections. Cost: $30—80 for hoses and fittings.
Severity: Needs attention. An oil leak that goes unnoticed can lead to low oil pressure and engine damage.
VVC-Specific Issues
The Variable Valve Control (VVC) version of the K-series engine produces 143 bhp (107 kW) compared to the standard engine’s 118 bhp (88 kW). The additional power comes from a mechanical variable valve timing system that advances intake cam timing at higher RPM. It is a clever piece of engineering, but it adds complexity.
VVC Mechanism Failure
What happens: Loss of power above 3,500—4,000 RPM. The engine feels flat at higher revs — it still runs, but the top-end power that defines the VVC is absent. The car drives like the standard 1.8 (or worse). A rattling or ticking noise from the VVC unit area may be present.
Why it happens: The VVC unit contains an eccentric disc mechanism driven by the engine oil pressure. Internal wear, oil starvation (from low oil level or blocked oil galleries), or seal failure within the VVC unit causes it to lose its ability to vary the valve timing. The unit relies on clean oil at correct pressure — neglected oil changes are the primary accelerant.
How to fix it: The VVC unit can be rebuilt by a specialist, or a replacement unit can be sourced. A refurbished VVC unit runs $500—1,000 AUD. Some owners convert VVC engines to standard cam profiles, which eliminates the problem but sacrifices the high-RPM character. If rebuilding, ensure the oil feed to the VVC unit is clean and unrestricted.
Severity: Not dangerous, but the VVC power delivery is the reason to own the VVC engine. Without it working, you have a standard engine with added complexity. Fix or convert.
Buying Advice Summary
If you are looking at an MGF or TF, here is what separates a good buy from an expensive mistake:
- Has the head gasket been done with an MLS upgrade? If yes, and the work was done properly, the car’s biggest risk is behind it. If no, budget $2,000—3,500 to have it done.
- Cooling system condition. Check every hose, the expansion tank, thermostat, and water pump. A well-maintained cooling system protects the head gasket.
- MGF: Hydragas condition or coilover conversion. A sagging MGF needs $600—1,000 for a coilover conversion. Factor it in.
- Service history. Timing belt records are critical — if there is no evidence of a belt change, assume the worst.
- Subframe condition. Get under the car and inspect both subframes. If the car was imported from the UK, be especially thorough.
- Manual gearbox. Avoid CVT cars unless they are priced to reflect the gearbox’s limited remaining life.
Preventive Maintenance
To keep an MGF or TF reliable and enjoyable:
- Monitor coolant level weekly. Any unexplained loss is a head gasket warning. Do not ignore it.
- Replace the timing belt every 5 years or 50,000 km. Include the tensioner and water pump. Non-negotiable.
- Maintain the cooling system obsessively. Replace the expansion tank if it shows any age. Fresh hoses, correct thermostat, working water pump. This is the car’s life support system.
- Change engine oil every 5,000 km with a quality 5W-30 or 10W-40 fully synthetic oil. The K-series, and especially the VVC, rewards clean oil.
- Upgrade to an MLS head gasket proactively if the original gasket is still fitted and the car has covered more than 60,000 km. Doing it on your schedule is cheaper than doing it as an emergency.
- Lubricate the roof mechanism every 6 months. White lithium grease on all pivots and latches.
- Inspect subframes annually for corrosion, particularly on UK imports.
- Check all earth connections yearly. Clean to bright metal and apply dielectric grease.
- Bleed the cooling system thoroughly after any work that opens the coolant circuit. Air locks are the silent killer.
- If you own an MGF, convert to coil springs. The Hydragas system is ageing out, and specialists who can service it are increasingly rare. Coilovers are better in every practical sense.
- Exercise the car regularly. Like all cars with rubber seals, hydraulic systems, and electrics, the MGF and TF suffer more from sitting than from driving. A weekly run keeps seals supple, batteries charged, and brakes free.
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