Overview

The E-Type is the one. Enzo Ferrari called it the most beautiful car ever made, and for once the old man wasn't taking the piss. From its launch at the Geneva Motor Show in 1961 to the final Series 3 V12s rolling off the line in 1975, the Jaguar E-Type defined what a sports car could look like while remaining attainable, at least by the standards of its day.

Buying one today is a different proposition entirely. These are serious money now, particularly the Series 1 cars. They're also serious maintenance commitments. The E-Type was built to a price in Coventry using 1960s British manufacturing standards, which means rust, Lucas electrics, and engineering decisions that made sense when labour was cheap and cars were disposable after ten years.

That said, there's nothing else quite like driving one. The long bonnet, the XK engine howling through those exhaust pipes, the knowledge that you're piloting arguably the most significant sports car of the twentieth century. If you can afford to buy well and maintain properly, it's an extraordinary machine. If you buy cheap, it'll eat you alive.

The Three Series

Series 1 (1961-1968)

This is the one everyone wants. Covered headlights behind glass fairings, slim chrome bumpers, toggle switches on the dash. Early cars had the 3.8-litre XK inline-six with triple SU carburettors making around 265 bhp. From 1964, the engine grew to 4.2 litres with twin SUs, gaining torque and a much better gearbox (the early Moss box was replaced by the Jaguar all-synchromesh unit).

Available as a roadster (OTS, Open Two Seater), a fixed head coupe (FHC), and from 1966 a 2+2 coupe with a longer wheelbase and higher roofline. The 2+2 is less pretty but more practical, and significantly cheaper to buy.

The 3.8 cars are the purists' choice. The 4.2 cars are better to drive. Either way, this is six-figure territory for anything decent.

Series 2 (1968-1971)

US safety regulations forced changes: the covered headlights went away (replaced by open units with chrome surrounds), bumpers got bigger, the intake got larger, and various minor changes diluted the purity of the design. Still a 4.2-litre XK six, still gorgeous by any reasonable standard, but the cognoscenti consider it a compromise.

Prices are lower than Series 1, which makes the Series 2 a genuinely smart buy. You still get the XK engine, the same basic structure, and most of the visual impact. On the road, a Series 2 drives as well as a late Series 1. The snobbery is misplaced.

Series 3 (1971-1975)

Enter the V12. Jaguar's new 5.3-litre V12 engine was silky, powerful (around 272 bhp), and spectacularly complex. Only available as a roadster or the 2+2 coupe, no fixed head variant. The car grew in size and weight, got power steering as standard, and generally became more of a grand tourer than a sports car.

The V12 sounds phenomenal and pulls like a locomotive. It also drinks fuel at an alarming rate (18-25 L/100km is normal), runs hot, and requires a level of maintenance that will make your accountant weep. Cooling system issues are endemic.

The Series 3 is the entry point to E-Type ownership, prices are the lowest, and the cars are genuinely comfortable. But running costs are eye-watering.

What to Look For

Body and Rust

This is where E-Types die, and it's where your money goes. The E-Type's monocoque construction means rust is structural, not cosmetic. When the floors rot, the car flexes. When the sills go, the doors won't shut. When the bonnet rots (and they all do), you're looking at thousands in repair or a replacement bonnet at $15,000-25,000 AUD.

Critical rust areas:

• Floor pans, the single most important area. Check from underneath with a torch and a screwdriver. Prod everything. Rotten floors mean the monocoque is compromised. This is a walk-away issue on anything priced as a driver.
• Sills, inner and outer. They're structural. Rust here means the car sags, doors bind, and the shell twists.
• Bonnet, the enormous forward-hinged bonnet is a rust magnet. Check the seams, the inner structure, the headlight area, the front frame. Replacement bonnets exist but are frightfully expensive.
• Boot floor, water collects here. Check thoroughly.
• Rear wheel arches and inner arches, stone damage lets rust in. Inner arches are hard to inspect and expensive to fix.
• Bulkhead and scuttle, the joint between bonnet section and the cabin. Rust here is catastrophic and incredibly expensive to repair.
• Subframes, front and rear. Check mounting points carefully.
• Door frames and hinge mounting points, the doors are heavy and stress the hinges. When hinge mounts rot, the doors drop.

The bonnet deserves special mention. It's enormous, around 1.5 metres long, and heavy. The hinge mechanism is complex, the alignment is fiddly, and any distortion from rust or accident damage is immediately obvious. A poorly fitting bonnet on an E-Type looks terrible and suggests deeper problems. Open it, close it, look at the gaps. If they're uneven, ask questions.

Mechanical

XK Engine (Series 1 and 2): The legendary XK twin-cam six is a magnificent engine, smooth, powerful, and remarkably long-lived if maintained. It's also old-school engineering that needs proper attention.

• Check for oil leaks, they all weep, but rivers of oil suggest neglected seals or a worn engine.
• Listen for top-end rattle on cold start, worn cam followers or timing chain.
• Check oil pressure, should be 40+ psi when hot at 3000 rpm.
• Blue smoke means bore wear or valve guide wear.
• SU carburettors (particularly the triple-SU setup on 3.8 cars) need regular balancing and maintenance. A poorly tuned E-Type runs like rubbish.
• The 3.8 Moss gearbox has no synchromesh on first gear. This is normal, not a fault. Learn to double-declutch or live with the crunch.
• The 4.2 all-synchro box is vastly better. If you're buying to drive, this is the one.

V12 Engine (Series 3): A masterpiece of engineering and a maintenance nightmare in equal measure.

• Cooling is the critical issue. The V12 runs hot and the cooling system is barely adequate. Check for overheating history, head gasket weeping, and coolant condition.
• Two banks of six cylinders means twice the ignition components, twice the potential for electrical issues.
• Fuel consumption is biblical, 18-25 L/100km in normal driving.
• When it works, it's sensational. When it doesn't, you'll need a second mortgage.

Common mechanical issues across all series:

• Rear differential and hub bearing wear, listen for whining or clunking from the back end.
• Brake servo issues, the system is complex and parts are expensive.
• Cooling system inadequacy, even the six-cylinder cars run hot in Australian conditions. Upgrade the radiator and fans.
• Exhaust manifold cracking, especially on the six-cylinder cars.

Electrical

Lucas. The Prince of Darkness. The E-Type's electrical system is Lucas-sourced and it's exactly as reliable as you'd expect. Corroded connections, dodgy earth points, failing switches, generators that generate excuses rather than electricity.

• Check everything: lights, indicators, wipers, gauges, heater.
• The Series 1 and 2 use positive earth systems (early cars) or negative earth. Confirm which you're looking at.
• Wiring looms get brittle and fail. A rewire with a quality aftermarket loom is one of the best investments you can make.
• Instrument gauges are Smiths units, they fail, they read wrong, and replacements are expensive.

Interior

• Trim and upholstery are available from specialists (Aldridge Trimming in the UK, various local trimmers in Australia).
• Check the condition of the wood veneer on the dashboard, cracking and lifting is common.
• Seat frames can rust, especially on roadsters where they get wet.
• Chrome switchgear and fittings are specific to the E-Type and expensive to replace.
• The 2+2 rear seats are for children or amputees. Don't buy a 2+2 expecting to carry adults in the back.

Price Guide (Australia)

Prices vary enormously depending on series, body style, and condition. Heritage certificates (from the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust) confirming matching numbers add significant value.

Series 1

• 3.8 Roadster: $250,000-500,000+ AUD. The most desirable, the most expensive.
• 3.8 FHC: $180,000-350,000 AUD. Slightly less than the roadster but still serious money.
• 4.2 Roadster: $200,000-400,000 AUD. Better to drive, marginally less collectible.
• 4.2 FHC: $150,000-280,000 AUD. The smart buy in Series 1, all the mechanical improvements, lower entry price.
• 4.2 2+2: $80,000-160,000 AUD. The bargain. Same engine and running gear, less desirable body.

Series 2

• Roadster: $120,000-250,000 AUD.
• FHC: $90,000-180,000 AUD.
• 2+2: $60,000-120,000 AUD.

Series 3 V12

• Roadster: $100,000-220,000 AUD.
• 2+2: $80,000-150,000 AUD.

Project cars exist at the lower end of these ranges, but be warned: E-Type restorations routinely exceed the finished car's value. A full nut-and-bolt restoration can easily cost $150,000-250,000 AUD, and that's before you've paid for the car itself.

Running Costs

Parts availability: Good. The E-Type has enormous aftermarket support. Mechanical parts are readily available from specialists like SNG Barratt (UK, ships to Australia), Martin Robey, David Manners, and local specialists. Body panels, trim, and brightwork are also available, though expensive.

Servicing: Not cheap and not simple. You need a specialist, this is not a car for the local mechanic who usually services Camrys. The JDCA (Jaguar Drivers Club of Australia) can recommend specialists in every state.

Fuel economy: Six-cylinder cars: 14-18 L/100km. V12 cars: 18-25 L/100km. Running an E-Type on 98 RON is recommended.

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car policies are essential. Shop around, Shannons, Hagerty, and other classic specialists are your best bet.

Which One Should You Buy?

Best investment: Series 1 3.8 Roadster. But you'll need deep pockets.

Best to drive: Series 1 4.2 FHC. The improved gearbox and torque make it a better real-world car. The fixed head is stiffer than the roadster, which helps handling.

Best value: Series 2 FHC or 2+2. All the E-Type experience at a fraction of Series 1 prices. The open headlights aren't as pretty, but on the road you won't care.

Best grand tourer: Series 3 V12 Roadster. Effortless performance, comfortable, and that V12 sound. Accept the fuel bills and maintenance costs.

Avoid: Any E-Type with unknown history, heavy filler in the bodywork, or a price that seems too good to be true. It is too good to be true.

The Verdict

Buy the best E-Type you can possibly afford. The difference between a $90,000 Series 2 project and a $180,000 sorted driver is less than the cost of turning the project into a driver. Every experienced E-Type owner will tell you the same thing: buy the most expensive car you can, because the cheap ones will cost you more in the end.

The E-Type is everything it's cracked up to be, beautiful, charismatic, thrilling to drive. It's also demanding, thirsty, and unforgiving of neglect. Treat it right and it'll reward you with one of the great driving experiences. Treat it as a casual hobby car and it'll punish you financially.

Join the JDCA. Find a good specialist. Budget for maintenance. And every time you walk up to it in the morning, you'll understand why Enzo was right.