S-Type (1963)
1963-1968 / Sedan / United Kingdom
The S-Type was Jaguar's evolution of the Mark 2, adding independent rear suspension and a longer, more elegant tail. It was a more refined car than the Mk2, with better ride quality and more boot space, but it lost some of the original's sporting sharpness in the process. The independent rear suspension, shared with the E-Type, gave it more sophisticated handling than its live-axle predecessor.
The S-Type has always lived in the Mark 2's shadow, which makes it one of the more affordable ways into classic Jaguar saloon ownership. The 3.8 with manual overdrive is the pick of the range, offering the same XK engine performance as the Mk2 with added refinement. In Australia, S-Types are less common than Mark 2s but are supported by the same strong Jaguar club network. They're increasingly appreciated by enthusiasts who recognise that the S-Type is the better car to cover long distances in, even if the Mk2 has the more iconic reputation.
Thinking of buying a S-Type (1963)?
What to look for, what to pay, what to avoid.
What to watch for.
Structural floor pan corrosion
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Structural floor pan corrosion
MinorFloor pans rot through, usually starting from the inside where moisture sits under the carpet and sound deadening. The car loses rigidity, doors stop closing properly, scuttle shake increases, the windscreen cracks.
The monocoque relies on the floors for structural integrity. Jaguar's rust protection was essentially "paint it and hope." Water gets in through door seals, drain holes that block, and windscreen rubbers that fail. Australian cars fare better than UK examples, but nowhere is immune.
Cut out the rot, fabricate or buy replacement floor sections, and weld them in. This is major surgery, the car needs to be on a jig to maintain alignment. Budget $8,000-15,000 AUD for professional floor repairs, more if the inner sills and bulkhead are involved. DIY is possible if you're a competent welder, but alignment is critical.
Sill corrosion (inner and outer)
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Sill corrosion (inner and outer)
MinorSills collapse, doors sag, the car visibly droops in the middle. Outer sills may look fine while the inner sections are completely gone.
Water sits inside the sill box sections. Drain holes block with debris. The inner sill is hidden behind trim and carpet, so rot goes undetected for years.
Inner and outer sill replacement. The car needs to be supported properly during the work to prevent the shell from distorting. Replacement panels are available from SNG Barratt and Martin Robey. A full sill replacement on both sides runs $5,000-10,000 AUD professionally.
Bonnet corrosion and distortion
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Bonnet corrosion and distortion
MinorThe enormous forward-hinged bonnet develops rust in its seams, inner structure, and around the headlight openings. It can also distort if the car has been jacked incorrectly or been in a minor shunt.
The bonnet is a complex multi-piece assembly with lots of seams where water sits. It's also thin-gauge steel that's vulnerable to stone chips and abrasion. The sheer weight of the thing stresses hinges and mounts.
Minor rust can be cut out and repaired. Major corrosion or distortion usually means a replacement bonnet, $15,000-25,000 AUD for a quality reproduction, plus paint. Alignment after fitting is an art form. Bonnet hinges and the tilt mechanism should be inspected and rebuilt at the same time.
Boot floor and rear end corrosion
Common Bodywork and Rust
Boot floor and rear end corrosion
CommonThe boot floor rots, the spare wheel well fills with water, and corrosion spreads to the rear inner wings and battery tray area.
Blocked drain holes, failed boot seal, poor design that traps water. Battery acid leaking onto metalwork accelerates the problem.
Cut and replace the affected panels. Boot floors are available as reproduction parts. Check the battery tray area carefully, acid damage is insidious.
Bulkhead and scuttle rot
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Bulkhead and scuttle rot
MinorThe joint between the bonnet section and the cabin, the scuttle, rots. Water leaks into the cabin, the windscreen frame weakens, and eventually the whole front of the car becomes loose.
Failed windscreen rubbers, blocked drainage, standing water in the scuttle area. This is one of the hardest areas to inspect and one of the most expensive to repair.
Major structural repair requiring the windscreen to come out. The scuttle area needs cutting, fabrication, and welding. This is specialist work, get quotes before buying a car with scuttle rot.
XK engine oil leaks
Common Engine
XK engine oil leaks
CommonOil weeps from every gasket and seal, cam covers, timing cover, rear main seal, sump gasket. Most E-Types leave marks wherever they park.
The XK engine was designed in the 1940s with rope seals and cork gaskets. Modern sealants help, but the casting surfaces are rough and it's nearly impossible to get them completely dry.
Replace gaskets and seals methodically. Start with the cam covers (easy, cheap) and work down. The rear main seal requires gearbox removal. Accept that a small weep is normal, you're aiming for "doesn't drip on the garage floor," not "operating theatre clean."
Join the conversation.
Common questions.
How much does a Jaguar E-Type cost in Australia?
It depends entirely on the series, body style, and condition. A Series 3 V12 2+2 in reasonable driver condition starts around $80,000-100,000 AUD.
Which E-Type should I buy?
If you're going to actually drive it (and you should, these are too good to garage), the Series 1 4.2 FHC is the sweet spot.
Are E-Types reliable enough to drive regularly?
Reliable? Not by modern standards.
What are the most common problems?
Rust, rust, and more rust. Then Lucas electrics.
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