XJ6 (Series I-III)
1968-1992 / Sedan / United Kingdom
Photo: Photo by Riley from Christchurch, New Zealand / Wikimedia Commons CC BY 2.0
The XJ6 was Sir William Lyons' masterpiece, a saloon car that combined ride quality, refinement, and style in a way that no other manufacturer could match at the price. The Series I is the purest design, with its slim bumpers and elegant proportions. The ride quality was so good that Jaguar's own engineers struggled to improve on it for decades.
The V12-engined XJ12 and Daimler Double Six variants offered effortless performance and a soundtrack that nothing else could match. The Series III, styled by Pininfarina, refined everything and ran from 1979 to 1992, making it one of the longest-running car designs in history. In Australia, XJ6s are available in reasonable numbers, particularly the later Series III which was sold here in good quantities. Regular maintenance is essential, but a well-kept XJ6 is one of the great driving experiences in classic motoring, with a ride quality and refinement that many modern cars still can't match.
Thinking of buying a XJ6 (Series I-III)?
What to look for, what to pay, what to avoid.
What to watch for.
Sill corrosion (structural)
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Sill corrosion (structural)
MinorOuter sills bubble and perforate. Inner sills rot silently behind trim. The car's rigidity decreases, doors sag, gaps become uneven, and the body flexes over bumps.
Water enters the sill box sections through blocked drain holes, failed door seals, and stone chip damage. The inner sill rots first, hidden from view. By the time the outer sill shows rust, the inner structure may be gone.
Full sill replacement, outer and inner. The car must be properly supported (ideally on a jig) during the work to prevent distortion. Replacement panels are available for all series. Budget $4,000-8,000 AUD for professional sill repairs on both sides.
Floor pan corrosion
Minor Bodywork and Rust
Floor pan corrosion
MinorFloor pans rot from underneath or from above (water sitting under carpets). In severe cases, you can see the road through the floor.
Water enters through failed windscreen rubbers, door seals, heater matrix leaks, and blocked drainage. Sound deadening material holds moisture against the steel. Carpet and underlay hide the damage until it's severe.
Cut out the rot, fabricate or buy replacement floor sections, weld in. All carpet, underlay, and sound deadening must come out for proper inspection and repair. Budget $3,000-8,000 AUD depending on extent.
Rear wheel arch and lower rear quarter corrosion
Common Bodywork and Rust
Rear wheel arch and lower rear quarter corrosion
CommonRust appears at the bottom of the rear wings, around the wheel arches, and in the lower panels between the wheels and boot.
Stone chips, trapped mud, inadequate drainage, and the general tendency of British steel to rust when given the slightest encouragement.
Cut and replace affected panels. Repair sections are available. Budget $1,500-4,000 AUD per side depending on severity.
Boot floor and spare wheel well corrosion
Common Bodywork and Rust
Boot floor and spare wheel well corrosion
CommonThe boot floor rusts through, the spare wheel well fills with water, and the rot spreads to surrounding panels.
Boot lid seal failure, blocked drain holes, condensation, and (on some cars) battery acid leakage from the boot-mounted battery.
Replace the boot floor section. Check and replace the boot seal. Clear all drains. Relocate the battery if acid damage is an issue (some owners move it to the engine bay). Budget $1,500-3,000 AUD.
Front wing corrosion
Common Bodywork and Rust
Front wing corrosion
CommonBubbling around headlights, indicator mounts, and the bottom edges of the front wings.
Stone chips compromise paint, water gets behind the inner wing, and the bottom edge collects dirt and moisture.
Replacement front wings are available for all series. It's a bolt-on panel, so replacement is straightforward. Budget $1,000-2,500 AUD per side including paint.
XK engine oil leaks
Common Engine
XK engine oil leaks
CommonOil weeps from cam covers, timing chain cover, sump gasket, and rear main seal. The engine bay is perpetually oily. Oil drips on the exhaust and creates smoke.
The XK engine uses old-style gaskets (cork, paper, and early-type lip seals) that deteriorate with age and heat cycling. The casting surfaces are rough by modern standards, making perfect sealing difficult.
Replace gaskets systematically. Start with the cam covers (easy access, cheap gaskets), then the timing cover, then the sump. The rear main seal requires gearbox removal, do it when the gearbox is out for any other reason. Use modern gasket materials and sealants. Accept that a slight weep is normal, aim for "no drips," not "factory fresh."
Join the conversation.
Common questions.
How much does a Jaguar XJ6 cost in Australia?
The XJ6 is one of the great classic car bargains. A running, presentable Series 3 4.
Which series should I buy?
**Series 3 for most people.** It's the most refined, has the best parts supply, and benefits from years of development.
Can I use an XJ6 as a daily driver?
Many people do, particularly with Series 3 models. The car is comfortable, refined, and practical enough for regular use.
What's the difference between Jaguar and Daimler versions?
Mechanically, nothing. The Daimler Sovereign (later just Daimler) uses the same engine, gearbox, suspension, brakes, and body structure as the equivalent Jaguar XJ6 or Sovereign.
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