Overview

The MG Midget (1961--1979) is the baby of the British sports car family -- a tiny, light, rev-happy roadster that proves you don't need horsepower to have fun. Sharing its platform with the Austin-Healey Sprite (the legendary "Frogeye" was the first-generation Sprite before the Midget badge appeared), the Midget weighs around 750 kg and displaces, depending on variant, between 948cc and 1,493cc. This is not a fast car by any measure. It is, however, one of the most entertaining cars ever built.

The Midget went through several generations with progressively larger engines: the 948cc Mk1, the 1,098cc Mk2, the sweet-spot 1,275cc Mk3, and the controversial 1,500cc final version powered by a Triumph Spitfire engine. The 1275 Mk3 is the one to buy -- it has the best combination of power, reliability, and character.

For the Australian buyer in 2026, the Midget is one of the most affordable classic sports car entries available. Prices are lower than the MGB, parts availability is good through British specialists, and the car's mechanical simplicity makes it an ideal first restoration project or weekend toy. The catch, as with all British cars of this era, is rust.

What to Look For

Rust -- Even Worse Than the MGB

The Midget is even more rust-prone than the MGB, and the consequences are more severe because the car is smaller and lighter -- there is less metal to start with, so structural corrosion has a proportionally greater impact.

Critical structural rust areas:

• Sills (rocker panels): The Midget's sills are structural and carry significant loads. They rust from inside the box section. When the sills go, the body flexes, doors won't close, and the car becomes dangerous. Sill replacement is the most common major repair. Cost: $1,200--2,500 per side.

• Floor pans: The footwells and centre tunnel corrode from below. Lift the carpet and check thoroughly. The Midget's floors are thinner than the MGB's. Repair sections available. Cost: $400--1,200 per section.

• Rear spring hangers: The leaf spring rear suspension mounts corrode and can pull away from the body. This is a safety issue. Cost: $300--700 per side.

• A-posts: The windscreen pillar bases corrode where they meet the scuttle. This is structural and expensive to repair properly. Cost: $1,000--2,500.

• Inner wings and front valance: The area around the front suspension mounts traps moisture and rots. Compromised metal here affects front suspension geometry. Cost: $800--2,000 per side.

Common cosmetic rust areas:

• Door skins (bottom edges rot from inside)
• Rear wheel arches (lip bubbling)
• Boot floor (water entry through seal failures)
• Front wings (around headlight bowls and lower edges -- but replacement wings are cheap at $150--300 each)

Engine

The Midget used four different engines across its production run. Each has its own character and issues.

948cc A-series (Mk1, 1961--1962): A tiny engine that makes around 46 hp. It is adequate for the Midget's weight but has no reserve. The engine is reliable but the small-bore block is less robust than later versions. These are the rarest Midgets and not the best choice for a daily driver.

1,098cc A-series (Mk2, 1962--1966): A bored-out version making around 59 hp. Better in every way than the 948 -- more torque, more relaxed cruising, and the same reliability. A good engine for the car.

1,275cc A-series (Mk3, 1966--1974): The sweet spot. This is the same engine that powered the Mini Cooper S (in different tune) and it is a gem -- willing, rev-happy, and surprisingly torquey for its size. Around 65 hp in Midget tune. The 1275 A-series is one of the all-time great small engines. Tough, well-proven, and parts are everywhere.

What to check on A-series engines:

• Oil pressure (should be 40--60 psi at 3,000 rpm, 15+ psi at idle when warm)
• Timing chain rattle on cold start (tensioner wear)
• Blue smoke on overrun (valve guide wear -- common but not urgent)
• Crankshaft end-float (excessive play indicates thrust washer wear -- the most serious A-series failure mode)
• Oil leaks (the A-series leaks from everywhere; rear main seal is the worst)

1,500cc Triumph engine (1500, 1974--1979): The final Midget used a completely different engine -- the Triumph 1,493cc unit from the Spitfire. This engine makes 66 hp but is larger, heavier, and less refined than the A-series it replaced. The 1500 has a reputation for crankshaft failure -- the big-end bearing journals are marginal for the loads, and the crank can crack at high RPM. This reputation is somewhat overstated (thousands of 1500s run without issues), but it is a genuine weakness.

What to check on 1500 engines:

• Listen for bottom-end knocking -- any metallic rapping from the lower engine is a red flag
• Check oil pressure carefully -- low pressure indicates bearing wear
• Overheating -- the 1500 runs hotter than the A-series
• The engine is physically larger and makes the engine bay more cramped

Gearbox

• Mk1--Mk3 (A-series cars): A BMC 4-speed gearbox, synchromesh on 2nd/3rd/4th (Mk1) or all four (later). It's a small, light gearbox with a delightful short-throw shift. Synchro wear on 2nd gear is common. The gearbox is adequate for the car's modest power. Rebuilds: $600--1,200.
• 1500: A different gearbox shared with the Triumph Spitfire. Adequate but less characterful. The overdrive option is available on some 1500s and is desirable.

Rear Axle

The Midget uses a live rear axle on leaf springs -- the same basic layout as the MGB but smaller. The leaf springs are prone to sag and the axle can develop tramp (hop) under hard cornering, particularly on bumpy surfaces. Uprated springs and telescopic shock absorber conversions help.

Cockpit Size

This is important. The Midget is tiny. The cockpit is significantly smaller than the MGB. If you are over 183 cm (6 feet) tall, you may not fit comfortably. Try before you buy -- sit in the car with the hood up and check that you can operate all the controls, see over the windscreen, and live with the lack of elbow room. The Midget is a car that rewards smaller drivers.

Wire Wheels

Many Midgets were fitted with wire wheels. They look wonderful but require maintenance -- the splines need greasing, the spokes need tensioning, and the knock-off spinners must be properly torqued. Neglected wire wheels can be dangerous. Check for loose spokes, cracked hubs, and worn splines. A set of reconditioned wire wheels: $500--1,000 per set.

Price Guide (Australia, 2026)

Mk3 1275cc (1966--1974) -- The Sweet Spot

• Project (major rust, needs work): $6,000--10,000
• Driver (runs, some rust, usable): $10,000--18,000
• Good (presentable, maintained): $18,000--25,000
• Excellent (restored or outstanding original): $25,000--35,000

Mk1/Mk2 948cc/1098cc (1961--1966) -- Rarer, More Collectible

• Project: $8,000--12,000
• Driver: $12,000--20,000
• Good: $20,000--28,000
• Excellent: $28,000--40,000

1500 (1974--1979) -- Least Desirable

• Project: $4,000--7,000
• Driver: $7,000--12,000
• Good: $12,000--18,000
• Excellent: $18,000--25,000

Wire wheels add $500--1,500 to the value over disc wheels. Overdrive (1500 only) adds $1,000--2,000.

Running Costs

The Midget is one of the cheapest classic cars to own and maintain.

Servicing: Oil change $25--40 DIY. Full service including oil, filter, points, plugs, valve adjustment: $60--120 DIY, $250--400 at a specialist.

Fuel: 7--9 L/100 km on 91 or 95 RON. The A-series is frugal.

Insurance: Agreed-value classic car policy, $300--600/year.

Parts: Good availability through Moss Motors, Brown & Gammons, and Australian British car specialists. Not quite as comprehensive as MGB supply but most parts are available. A-series engine parts are shared with the Mini, Morris Minor, and Austin 1100 -- a huge parts base.

Which Variant?

Engine: The 1275cc Mk3 is the one to buy. The A-series 1275 is the best engine fitted to the Midget -- it has enough power to be fun, it's utterly reliable, and parts are plentiful. The 1500 is cheaper but the engine reputation puts some buyers off. The Mk1/Mk2 are more collectible but less practical.

Wheels: Wire wheels look right on a Midget but require maintenance. Steel disc wheels are more practical for a car you plan to drive regularly.

Hood: Budget for a new hood -- most surviving Midget hoods are past their best. A good mohair hood ($600--1,000) transforms the car's appearance and weather protection.

The Verdict

The MG Midget is the most fun you can have in a classic car for the least money. It is not fast, it is not comfortable, it is not practical, and it will rust while you watch. But it weighs 750 kg, it has a wonderful little engine that loves to rev, the steering talks to you through every corner, and driving one on a sunny Australian backroad will put a grin on your face that no modern car can match.

Buy the best 1275 Mk3 you can afford. Check the sills, check the floors, check the spring hangers. Fit electronic ignition, upgrade the cooling system, and carry a toolkit. Then drive it, enjoy it, and accept that you have joined one of the most rewarding and affordable corners of classic car ownership.