What should I look for when buying a 262/264/265?

Rust. That's your deal-breaker. Check the sills (three-part construction, outer, inner, and the bit welded between them), spare wheel containers, front wings around the indicators, wheel arches, and the area between the windscreen and A-pillars. Pre-1987 cars rust badly; post-1987 models are partly galvanised and much better. The battery box rots out. Check under the bonnet for crossmember corrosion and around the firewall. The rain gutters rust. If you see bubbling paint or white haze in the windscreen glass, walk away, that's moisture from rust. Bring a magnet to check for filler.

Bottom line: A structurally sound car is worth paying extra for. Welding costs more than engine work.

How much should I expect to pay?

Prices vary wildly depending on condition and model year. The 262C Bertone coupé commands a premium, it's rare and parts are scarce. A decent post-1987 264 sedan or 265 estate in driver condition might be a few thousand dollars. Pre-1987 cars with rust issues can be cheap, but you'll spend that saving on bodywork. A genuinely rust-free, late-model example is the smart buy even if it costs more upfront.

The Dutch market saw a price drop when classic car tax rules changed, many owners only cared about tax-free driving, not the cars themselves. That created bargains, but also a lot of neglected examples.

What engine options are there, and which is best?

The 262 was a four-cylinder car (B21 or B23 redblock). The 264/265 came with the PRV V6, either the B27 or B28/B280. These are 2.7L or 2.8L V6 engines developed jointly by Volvo, Peugeot, and Renault. Not fast, but smooth and refined. Expect around 140-156 bhp.

Some markets got the D24 diesel (a Volkswagen-sourced inline-six). The diesel is slow but indestructible if maintained. Parts are still available. There was also a turbodiesel (D24T) and turbo-intercooler (D24TIC) version.

Best choice: The B28E V6 (fuel-injected, K-Jetronic) in a post-1987 264 or 265. Smooth, reliable, parts are available. The diesel is fine if you don't mind the noise and lack of pace, but avoid if you can't find a specialist.

Are parts still available?

Yes, but some 260-specific bits are getting scarce. Body panels (wings, doors, sills) are reproduced and cheap for standard 240/260 models. Mechanical parts (suspension, brakes, driveline) are shared with the 240 and still plentiful. The 262C Bertone coupé is the exception, body panels, glass, interior trim, and bumpers are unique and hard to find.

V6 engine parts are available but less common than redblock four-cylinder stuff. The D24 diesel shares parts with VW LT vans, specialist diesel shops can rebuild them.

Can I daily-drive a 264/265?

Absolutely. The 260-series has excellent seats, a dual-circuit braking system (80% braking power if one circuit fails), and a solid reputation for durability. The later models (1987+) with better rust protection are ideal daily drivers.

Caveats: Fuel economy is average (8.5-9L/100km is typical for the V6 with an automatic). The car is heavy and not quick. The ride is comfortable but suspension bushings wear, budget for replacements. If you want a reliable classic that won't leave you stranded, a well-sorted 264 or 265 estate is hard to beat.

What are the common problems?

• Rust (see above)
• Electrical gremlins on older cars, window motors, alternators, relays
• Fuel injection issues (K-Jetronic can be finicky, but it's elegant once you understand it)
• Worn suspension bushings (cheap to replace, labour-intensive)
• Heater core leaks (common on neglected cars)
• Odometer failure (the trip meter and odometer stop working, very common on 700/900 series, less so on 260, but worth checking service history)
• PRV V6 exhaust manifolds crack (later manifolds flow better but crack more easily; earlier ones are indestructible)

None of these are terminal. A car with complete service history and no rust is the one to buy.

What about the 262C Bertone coupé?

Gorgeous, rare, and a nightmare for parts. The 262C was hand-built by Bertone in Italy. It has unique body panels, glass, interior trim, bumpers, and a lower roofline. If something breaks, you're hunting breakers' yards in Europe or fabricating your own solution.

The vinyl roof cracks and needs replacing. The rear side window area rusts badly due to poor drainage design. Front wings, doors, bonnet, boot, all different from a 240 or 260. Budget accordingly.

Only buy a 262C if:

• You're committed to keeping it forever
• You have access to a good fabricator
• The car is already sorted
• You accept that some parts simply don't exist anymore

What transmission options are available?

Manual:

• M45 (four-speed, rare, mostly rallycross cars)
• M46 (four-speed with Laycock overdrive, the strongest Volvo manual sold in the US, handles 250 lb-ft)
• M47 (five-speed, weaker, early M47-1 versions have 5th gear lubrication problems; the M47-II is better but still doesn't like much torque over stock)

Automatic:

• BW55 (three-speed, older)
• AW55/AW70/AW71 (three- or four-speed, reliable, common)

The M46 is the best manual if you can find one. The automatics are bombproof. For swaps, the T5 (from an Aerostar with adapter plate) or Getrag 265 (BMW) are popular, but that's overkill unless you're building a project car.

Is it good for a first classic car?

Yes, if you buy the right one. A post-1987 264 or 265 with no rust, complete service history, and a few minor issues is an excellent first classic. Parts are cheap, the aftermarket is strong, and the Volvo community is helpful. The car is simple enough for a home mechanic to work on but not so agricultural that it feels ancient.

No, if you buy a rusty pre-1987 car or a 262C coupé. Rust repair is expensive and beyond most DIYers. The coupé is a specialist's car.

What should I budget for insurance and running costs?

Insurance varies by market. In the UK, classic car policies for a 260-series are reasonable, it's not a high-theft or high-performance vehicle. Fuel economy is 20-25 mpg (8-9L/100km) depending on engine and gearbox. Parts are cheap compared to German rivals. Consumables (filters, plugs, oil, brake pads) are inexpensive.

Budget for:

• Suspension refresh if the car hasn't had bushings replaced recently
• Cooling system overhaul (hoses, thermostat, radiator if it's original)
• Brake overhaul (discs, pads, caliper rebuilds if needed)
• Undersealing and rust protection if you're keeping it long-term

A well-sorted car should cost less to run than a modern car once you're past the initial sorting-out phase.

Can I retrofit parts from a 240 or 740?

Yes, to a point. The 260 shares a platform with the 240, so suspension, brakes, driveline, and many interior bits interchange. Rear lights, bumpers, door handles, and interior trim from a 240 will fit. The 262C Bertone coupé is the exception, almost nothing swaps directly.

The 740/940 shares some parts (later engines, gearboxes, electrical components) but the body is different. You can fit 740 wheels, brakes, and interior bits with some adaptation.

Interchangeability is a strength of the 260. If you need a part, check 240, 740, and 760 parts catalogues.

What modifications are popular?

• Turbocharging (the "+T" conversion, add a turbo manifold, intercooler, and uprated fuel injection from a 740 Turbo; the B230FT from a '93+ 940 Turbo is the best donor engine)
• Suspension upgrades (uprated springs, shocks, anti-roll bars from IPD or similar)
• Wheel and tyre upgrades (15" or 16" alloys from later Volvos, 740 Virgo or 850 wheels are popular)
• LH 2.4 fuel injection swap (if your car has K-Jetronic or LH 2.2, the 2.4 system is better and parts are plentiful)
• Manual gearbox swap (if you've got an automatic and want a manual, the M46 or T5 swap is well-documented)
• Interior upgrades (leather seats from a 740 GLE, wood trim, better stereo)

The Volvo redblock tuning scene is huge. There's a ton of info online. Just don't go mad, these are heavy cars and the chassis wasn't designed for big power without serious work.

How does the 260 compare to a 240?

The 260 is the posher 240. Same platform, but the V6 is smoother than the redblock four-pot, the interior is nicer (wood trim, better seats, more sound deadening), and it was positioned as Volvo's premium model before the 760 arrived.

Pros: More refined, better equipment levels, rarer (so more interesting).

Cons: V6 parts are less common than redblock parts, fuel economy is slightly worse, and the 262C coupé is a parts nightmare.

If you want a comfortable, understated classic that's easy to live with, the 264 or 265 is a great choice. If you want maximum parts availability and simplicity, buy a 240.

Where can I find more information?

• Volvotips.com (service manuals, parts catalogues, buyer's guides)
• Matthews Volvo Site (MVS) (active forum, tech articles, parts recommendations)
• Turbobricks.com (forum for Volvo 200/700/900 series)
• FCP Euro, IPD, Pelican Parts (parts suppliers with good tech support)
• Volvo 200/700/900 Facebook groups (active communities, good for parts leads)

The Volvo community is one of the best in the classic car world. Ask questions, share photos, and don't be afraid to admit you don't know something. Someone will help.