T-Type (TC/TD/TF)
1945-1955 / Roadster / United Kingdom
Photo: Photo by dave_7 from Lethbridge, Canada / Wikimedia Commons CC BY-SA 2.0
The MG T-Type defined the affordable British sports car and created a template that would influence the entire industry for decades. The TC was the post-war car that American GIs fell in love with and shipped home, essentially creating the sports car market in the United States. The TD brought independent front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering, making it a more modern and capable car, while the TF added a sloped grille and individual headlights that gave it a more contemporary look.
In Australia, T-Types were popular from new and many survive today thanks to the dry climate in most states. They're a regular sight at MG club events, rallies, and concours. The driving experience is pure and unfiltered: you sit low, the steering talks to you constantly, and the little XPAG engine rewards revs with a busy, willing character. Parts availability is excellent through the global MG community, and these cars are straightforward to maintain at home.
Thinking of buying a T-Type (TC/TD/TF)?
What to look for, what to pay, what to avoid.
What to watch for.
Oil Leaks, Everywhere
Minor Engine, XPAG/XPEG (1,250cc/1,466cc Inline-4)
Oil Leaks, Everywhere
MinorOil weeps from every gasket surface, rocker cover, timing cover, sump, rear main seal, and anywhere two castings meet. The area beneath a parked T-Type will have oil spots. Some engines leak enough to require topping up between services.
The XPAG predates modern gasket technology. Original seals were cork, felt, and rope, materials that harden, shrink, and lose their sealing ability with age. The crankshaft rear main seal is a scroll-type design that relies on oil being flung centrifugally back into the sump, rather than a modern lip seal. It will always weep.
Replace all cork and felt gaskets with modern equivalents. Use a quality sealant (Hylomar or similar) on mating surfaces. The rear main seal can be improved with a modern conversion kit, but some weeping is considered normal. Cost: $100-$300 for a full gasket set. The rear main seal conversion: $150-$250.
Low Oil Pressure (Worn Bearings)
Critical Engine, XPAG/XPEG (1,250cc/1,466cc Inline-4)
Low Oil Pressure (Worn Bearings)
CriticalOil pressure drops below 40 psi at cruising speed when warm, or below 15 psi at idle. A knocking sound from the bottom end, particularly under load, confirms the diagnosis.
The XPAG uses a three-bearing crankshaft (two main bearings plus a centre main). With mileage, the white-metal bearings wear, increasing clearances and reducing oil pressure. The three-bearing design is inherently more prone to crankshaft flex than a five-bearing crank, which accelerates bearing wear.
Bottom-end rebuild, regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings. If the crank is beyond regrinding limits, exchange crankshafts are available. A quality XPAG rebuild costs $3,000-$5,000. This is a well-understood job that any British car specialist or experienced home mechanic can handle.
Dynamo (Generator) Failure
Common Engine, XPAG/XPEG (1,250cc/1,466cc Inline-4)
Dynamo (Generator) Failure
CommonThe charge warning light stays on above idle, the battery goes flat, and electrical accessories dim. In some cases, the dynamo seizes and the drive belt snaps or glazes.
The dynamo's internal brushes wear, the commutator surface deteriorates, and the field coil windings can short. Dynamos have lower output than modern alternators and only begin charging at higher RPM, they're marginal for cars with upgraded lighting or accessories.
Rebuild the dynamo with new brushes and a cleaned commutator. A competent auto electrician can do this for $200-$400. Alternatively, fit a modern alternator in a dynamo-style housing, these bolt straight on and provide significantly better charging performance. Cost: $400-$600 for the conversion kit. Popular suppliers include Dynalite and Powerlite.
Overheating
Critical Engine, XPAG/XPEG (1,250cc/1,466cc Inline-4)
Overheating
CriticalCoolant temperature climbs above normal, particularly in slow traffic or on hot days. Steam from the overflow. In severe cases, the engine boils over.
The XPAG cooling system was designed for English weather, mild temperatures and damp air. Australian summers overwhelm the original radiator's capacity. Blocked radiator core tubes, a worn water pump, collapsed hoses, and incorrect ignition timing all contribute. The original thermo-siphon cooling on very early engines (pre-TC) relied on natural convection rather than a pump, which is hopelessly inadequate.
Flush and test the radiator. If the core is blocked, have it re-cored or fit a new core with improved tube density. Check the water pump for leaks and impeller wear. Fit a thermostat if one isn't present (some owners remove them, which actually makes overheating worse by allowing coolant to flow too quickly through the radiator). An electric fan behind the radiator is a popular and effective upgrade for Australian conditions. Cost: $200-$500 depending on what's needed.
Timing Chain Stretch
Common Engine, XPAG/XPEG (1,250cc/1,466cc Inline-4)
Timing Chain Stretch
CommonA rattling noise from the front of the engine, particularly on startup or at idle. The engine may feel down on power and the timing may wander.
The single-row timing chain stretches with mileage. The original tensioner is a simple spring-loaded slipper that can only compensate for so much wear. Eventually the chain becomes loose enough to slap against the timing cover or jump a tooth.
Replace the timing chain and tensioner. This requires removing the timing cover (front of the engine). Fit a duplex (double-row) chain conversion if available, it's stronger and lasts longer. Cost: $200-$400 for parts.
Rot in the Ash Frame
Minor Wooden Body Frame
Rot in the Ash Frame
MinorDoors don't shut properly or are misaligned. Body panels flex when pushed. Gaps between panels are uneven. The body feels "soft" when jacked up. In severe cases, the body visibly sags or the scuttle area cracks.
The T-Type body is steel panels attached to an ash (hardwood) frame. Water ingress, through leaking hoods, poor seals, or simply decades of exposure, causes the ash to rot. Once rot starts, it spreads through the frame members, weakening the entire structure. The areas most vulnerable are the door posts, the scuttle frame, the rear tub frame, and anywhere that water can sit.
Localised rot can be cut out and new ash sections spliced in. Extensive rot requires a complete reframe, the body comes off the chassis, all old frame members are removed, and a new frame is built from seasoned ash. Complete frame kits are available from SC Parts, British Frame & Engine, and other specialists. Cost: $5,000-$10,000 for a frame kit, plus $5,000-$15,000 in labour for a professional reframe.
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Common questions.
What is the MG T-Type?
The MG T-Type is a series of small British sports cars produced by MG (Morris Garages) at their factory in Abingdon-on-Thames, England, from 1936 to 1955. The postwar models, the TC (1945-1949), TD (1949-1953), and TF (1953-1955), are the ones most commonly encountered today.
Which T-Type should I buy?
It depends on what you want. **MG TC:** The purist's choice.
How fast is a T-Type?
Not very, by modern standards. The XPAG engine produces 54 bhp in standard form, and the car weighs around 880-940 kg depending on model.
Can I daily drive a T-Type?
You can, but you probably shouldn't. The T-Type lacks weather protection (the hood leaks in heavy rain), has no heater in standard form (aftermarket heaters are available), has limited luggage space, and offers no modern safety features whatsoever.
Reference
Workshop Manuals
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