Question 1

Oil Leaks, Everywhere

Accepted Answer

Oil weeps from every gasket surface, rocker cover, timing cover, sump, rear main seal, and anywhere two castings meet. The area beneath a parked T-Type will have oil spots. Some engines leak enough to require topping up between services. The XPAG predates modern gasket technology. Original seals were cork, felt, and rope, materials that harden, shrink, and lose their sealing ability with age. The crankshaft rear main seal is a scroll-type design that relies on oil being flung centrifugally back into the sump, rather than a modern lip seal. It will always weep. Replace all cork and felt gaskets with modern equivalents. Use a quality sealant (Hylomar or similar) on mating surfaces. The rear main seal can be improved with a modern conversion kit, but some weeping is considered normal. Cost: $100-$300 for a full gasket set. The rear main seal conversion: $150-$250.

Question 2

Low Oil Pressure (Worn Bearings)

Accepted Answer

Oil pressure drops below 40 psi at cruising speed when warm, or below 15 psi at idle. A knocking sound from the bottom end, particularly under load, confirms the diagnosis. The XPAG uses a three-bearing crankshaft (two main bearings plus a centre main). With mileage, the white-metal bearings wear, increasing clearances and reducing oil pressure. The three-bearing design is inherently more prone to crankshaft flex than a five-bearing crank, which accelerates bearing wear. Bottom-end rebuild, regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings. If the crank is beyond regrinding limits, exchange crankshafts are available. A quality XPAG rebuild costs $3,000-$5,000. This is a well-understood job that any British car specialist or experienced home mechanic can handle.

Question 3

Dynamo (Generator) Failure

Accepted Answer

The charge warning light stays on above idle, the battery goes flat, and electrical accessories dim. In some cases, the dynamo seizes and the drive belt snaps or glazes. The dynamo's internal brushes wear, the commutator surface deteriorates, and the field coil windings can short. Dynamos have lower output than modern alternators and only begin charging at higher RPM, they're marginal for cars with upgraded lighting or accessories. Rebuild the dynamo with new brushes and a cleaned commutator. A competent auto electrician can do this for $200-$400. Alternatively, fit a modern alternator in a dynamo-style housing, these bolt straight on and provide significantly better charging performance. Cost: $400-$600 for the conversion kit. Popular suppliers include Dynalite and Powerlite.

Question 4

Overheating

Accepted Answer

Coolant temperature climbs above normal, particularly in slow traffic or on hot days. Steam from the overflow. In severe cases, the engine boils over. The XPAG cooling system was designed for English weather, mild temperatures and damp air. Australian summers overwhelm the original radiator's capacity. Blocked radiator core tubes, a worn water pump, collapsed hoses, and incorrect ignition timing all contribute. The original thermo-siphon cooling on very early engines (pre-TC) relied on natural convection rather than a pump, which is hopelessly inadequate. Flush and test the radiator. If the core is blocked, have it re-cored or fit a new core with improved tube density. Check the water pump for leaks and impeller wear. Fit a thermostat if one isn't present (some owners remove them, which actually makes overheating worse by allowing coolant to flow too quickly through the radiator). An electric fan behind the radiator is a popular and effective upgrade for Australian conditions. Cost: $200-$500 depending on what's needed.

Question 5

Timing Chain Stretch

Accepted Answer

A rattling noise from the front of the engine, particularly on startup or at idle. The engine may feel down on power and the timing may wander. The single-row timing chain stretches with mileage. The original tensioner is a simple spring-loaded slipper that can only compensate for so much wear. Eventually the chain becomes loose enough to slap against the timing cover or jump a tooth. Replace the timing chain and tensioner. This requires removing the timing cover (front of the engine). Fit a duplex (double-row) chain conversion if available, it's stronger and lasts longer. Cost: $200-$400 for parts.

Question 6

Rot in the Ash Frame

Accepted Answer

Doors don't shut properly or are misaligned. Body panels flex when pushed. Gaps between panels are uneven. The body feels "soft" when jacked up. In severe cases, the body visibly sags or the scuttle area cracks. The T-Type body is steel panels attached to an ash (hardwood) frame. Water ingress, through leaking hoods, poor seals, or simply decades of exposure, causes the ash to rot. Once rot starts, it spreads through the frame members, weakening the entire structure. The areas most vulnerable are the door posts, the scuttle frame, the rear tub frame, and anywhere that water can sit. Localised rot can be cut out and new ash sections spliced in. Extensive rot requires a complete reframe, the body comes off the chassis, all old frame members are removed, and a new frame is built from seasoned ash. Complete frame kits are available from SC Parts, British Frame & Engine, and other specialists. Cost: $5,000-$10,000 for a frame kit, plus $5,000-$15,000 in labour for a professional reframe.

Question 7

Body Flex

Accepted Answer

The body creaks and flexes over bumps. Doors pop open over rough roads. Scuttle shake (the windscreen frame vibrates relative to the body) is noticeable. Even a sound wooden frame allows more flex than a modern unibody. A frame with any degree of rot amplifies this dramatically. The T-Type body was never rigid by modern standards, it was designed for gentle English B-roads, not Australian conditions. Ensure the frame is sound and all panel-to-frame fixings are tight. Check that the body is properly bolted to the chassis at all mounting points. Some owners add discreet reinforcement brackets at stress points. Scuttle shake can be reduced by tightening the windscreen frame mountings and ensuring the frame-to-body connection is solid.

Question 8

Kingpin Wear (TC)

Accepted Answer

Front-end shimmy at speed, wandering steering, clunking over bumps, and uneven front tyre wear. The TC uses a beam front axle with kingpins connecting the stub axles to the axle beam. The kingpin bushes wear with mileage and lack of greasing. The TC has multiple grease points that require regular attention, miss them and the wear accelerates dramatically. Ream out the kingpin bushes and fit oversize kingpins, or replace the bushes entirely. Kingpin rebuild kits are readily available. Cost: $200-$400 per side. Regular greasing (every 1,000 miles or at each service) prevents premature wear.

Question 9

Leaf Spring Fatigue

Accepted Answer

The car sits lower than normal, particularly at the rear. Ride quality is harsh. The chassis bottoms out over bumps. Handling feels wallowy and imprecise. The half-elliptic leaf springs lose their camber with age and fatigue. Seventy years of use flattens the spring leaves. Broken leaves are also common, check by inspecting the spring pack from underneath. Re-temper and re-camber the springs, or replace with new spring packs. New spring sets are available from specialists. Cost: $300-$600 per pair for new springs. Re-tempering existing springs: $200-$400 per pair.

Question 10

Front Suspension Wear (TD/TF)

Accepted Answer

Clunking from the front end, vague steering, uneven tyre wear. The car may pull to one side under braking. The TD and TF use independent front suspension with coil springs, wishbones, and lever-arm shock absorbers. The wishbone bushes wear, the trunnions (lower pivot points) wear, and the lever-arm dampers lose their effectiveness. Replace wishbone bushes, trunnions, and any worn ball joints. Rebuild or replace lever-arm dampers (specialists like Armstrong or Frontline Developments offer rebuilt units). Trunnion kits: $100-$200 per side. Damper rebuild: $200-$400 per pair.

Question 11

Cable Brake Adjustment (TC)

Accepted Answer

Brakes are weak, pull to one side, or require excessive pedal effort. One wheel may lock while others barely slow. The TC's mechanical (cable-operated) brakes require regular adjustment to maintain even braking across all four wheels. The cables stretch, the adjusters seize, and the brake drum clearances change as shoes wear. Any variation in adjustment between wheels causes uneven braking. Adjust all four brake cables to equalise braking effort. Free seized adjusters with penetrating oil. Replace worn cables. Ensure brake shoes are in good condition and drums are not scored. This is a regular maintenance task, not a fix-once-and-forget item. Cost: minimal for adjustment; $200-$400 for new cables if needed.

Question 12

Wheel Cylinder Leaks (TD/TF)

Accepted Answer

Spongy brake pedal, reduced braking power, visible fluid leak at a wheel. The hydraulic wheel cylinders' internal seals deteriorate with age. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which corrodes the cylinder bore and damages the seals. Original brass cylinders may be pitted internally. Rebuild or replace wheel cylinders. Stainless steel sleeved cylinders are available as an upgrade, they resist corrosion and last far longer. Flush and replace brake fluid every two years. Cost: $50-$100 per cylinder for rebuild kits; $100-$200 per cylinder for stainless-sleeved replacements.

Question 13

Wiring Degradation

Accepted Answer

Intermittent electrical faults, lights flickering, gauges reading erratically, indicators not working, starter not engaging reliably. Original wiring insulation (cotton-covered rubber or PVC) becomes brittle and cracks after 70 years. Exposed wiring shorts against bodywork. Connections corrode. Earth points lose conductivity. Replace the entire wiring loom with a new reproduction harness. Complete harnesses are available from Autosparks, British Wiring, and MGCC suppliers. The T-Type wiring is simple enough that installation is a weekend job. Cost: $300-$500 for a complete harness.

Question 14

Fuel Gauge Inaccuracy

Accepted Answer

The fuel gauge reads erratically, reads full when the tank is half empty, or doesn't register at all. The tank sender unit's float mechanism or resistance wire fails. The Smiths gauge itself can also lose accuracy. Earthing problems between the tank sender and the gauge cause intermittent readings. Clean and check the earth connection at the sender unit first. If the gauge still misbehaves, test the sender resistance with a multimeter and replace if out of spec. Rebuilt sender units are available. Cost: $80-$150 for a replacement sender.

Question 15

Water Pump Leaks

Accepted Answer

Coolant dripping from the water pump housing. Low coolant level. Overheating. The water pump seal and bearings wear with age. The original water pump design uses a carbon face seal that deteriorates. Rebuild or replace the water pump. Rebuild kits are available and the job is straightforward. Cost: $100-$200 for a rebuild kit; $200-$400 for a new pump.

T-Type (TC/TD/TF)

T-Type (TC/TD/TF) known problems