Overview

The Volvo 122S, known as the Amazon in most of the world, is one of those cars that looks simple but rewards you for digging deeper. Built from 1956 to 1970, these are pre-safety-cage Volvos: tough monocoque construction, real chrome bumpers, and mechanicals you can actually see and fix. They sold over 600,000 of them, so parts exist and knowledge is out there.

People buy them because they're honest. No computer modules, no plastic intake manifolds to crack, no turbo plumbing to leak. Just a rugged B18 or B20 four-cylinder, a manual or automatic gearbox, and a body shell that, if it hasn't rusted, will outlast you. They're also dead easy to work on, which is why they're popular first classics.

The 122S is the two-door sedan; the 121 is the four-door; the 122S wagon is the station wagon variant. Most desirable is the 122S two-door, especially late '60s models with the B20 engine and dual SU carburettors. But honestly, any Amazon that hasn't rotted through the floor is a good starting point.

What to Look For

Body and Rust

This is where Amazons die. The steel is tough, but 60 years of weather will find every seam and drain hole. Check these areas hard:

• Front inner wings and battery tray, pull back the rubber mat in the boot; if the battery's been leaking, the whole tray can be gone
• Floor pans, especially under the front seats, poke it with a screwdriver; if it goes through, that's a big job
• Rear spring towers (shock towers), look inside the boot; these crack and rust from the inside out; structural and dangerous if bad
• Sills and rocker panels, lift the car and tap them; they rot from the inside and filler hides a lot
• Rear parcel shelf, common rot spot; check where it meets the boot floor
• Door bottoms, they rot; replacement panels exist but fitting them properly is fiddly
• Windscreen and rear glass surrounds, rust starts under the chrome trim; if the glass has been resealed badly, water gets in
• Front crossmember where the bumper mounts, it's a structural member; rust here is a deal-breaker

Surface rust on the body is fixable. Structural rot in the floors, spring towers, or crossmembers is a walk-away unless you're buying a project and know what you're in for. Multiple forum contributors report that badly rusted spring towers will eventually fail, making the car dangerous to drive.

Mechanical

The B18 (1.8L) and B20 (2.0L) four-cylinder engines are near-bulletproof if they've had oil. The gearboxes, M40 four-speed manual or BW35 three-speed auto, are equally tough.

What to check:

• Oil pressure, should sit around 40-50 psi warm at cruise, 60-70 psi cold; if it's below 20 psi warm, walk away or budget a rebuild
• Smoke on startup, a puff of blue smoke is worn valve seals (cheap fix); constant blue smoke is rings (expensive)
• Engine noise, ticking is usually valve clearances (adjust them every 10,000 miles); heavy knocking is rod bearings (rebuild time)
• Gearbox noise, M40 should shift cleanly; if it crunches into second, syncros are gone; noisy bearings are common but not a deal-breaker if the price reflects it
• Clutch, should bite smoothly; juddering is worn friction plate or oil on the disc (could be a rear main seal leak)
• Rear main seal, check under the car; if the bell housing is caked in oil, it's leaking; it's a gearbox-out job
• Cooling system, should run at 80-90°C; overheating could be a clogged radiator, stuck thermostat, or a cracked head (rare but not impossible)
• Carburettors, SU carbs are reliable but need periodic adjustment; if the car surges or hesitates, they probably need a rebuild and balancing

Deal-breaker: Low oil pressure, heavy bottom-end knock, or a gearbox that jumps out of gear. Everything else is fixable with patience and a workshop manual.

Electrical

Wiring in these cars is simple, too simple, in fact, because previous owners will have bodged repairs with crimp connectors and electrical tape. Volvo used cloth-covered wiring that rots over time, especially near heat sources.

• Check all lights, indicators, wipers, if half the lights don't work, assume the wiring is a mess
• Charging system, should see 13.5-14V at idle with lights on; if it's lower, the generator (not an alternator on early cars) is weak or the voltage regulator is shot
• Ignition system, many Amazons have been converted to electronic ignition (good); if it still has points, make sure they're not pitted or the condenser isn't breaking down
• Dash gauges, fuel gauge failure is common (sender unit in the tank); oil pressure and water temp should work; if they don't, it's usually the voltage stabiliser behind the dash

Honestly, budget for a full rewire if you're keeping the car long-term. The Lucas electrics are fine when new, but 50-year-old insulation is asking for trouble.

Interior

Trim parts are hard to find, so check condition carefully:

• Seats, vinyl cracks; cloth wears through; frames rust
• Dash pad, cracks are common; replacements exist but aren't cheap
• Door cards, repro panels are available but originals in good shape are worth money
• Carpet, if it's wet, you have rust or a windscreen leak (see above)
• Pedal rubbers, wear through; not expensive but fiddly to replace

The good news: the dashboard is metal, the switchgear is robust, and most trim screws are not rusted in place.

Price Guide (Australia)

Rough guide for right-hand-drive Australian-market 122S (1962-1968):

• Project (rusty but complete): AUD 3,000-7,000
• Runner (drives, some rust, needs work): AUD 8,000-15,000
• Good (solid body, mechanically sound): AUD 16,000-25,000
• Excellent (restored or very original): AUD 26,000-40,000
• Concours (show-quality restoration): AUD 40,000+

Prices have been climbing. A solid, rust-free car is worth the premium over a cheap rusty one.

Running Costs

Parts availability is better than you'd expect. The B18/B20 engine shares parts with later Volvos (140, 164), so mechanical bits are around. Body panels are harder but repro parts exist for most panels. Multiple forum contributors report buying parts from specialist suppliers like IPD or FCP Euro with good results.

Servicing is cheap if you DIY. Oil changes, valve adjustments, carburettor tuning, it's all home-mechanic friendly. If you're paying someone, find an old-school mechanic who knows carburettors; modern workshops will charge you for figuring it out.

Insurance is usually agreed-value classic cover; budget AUD 400-800/year depending on agreed value.

Fuel economy: expect 8-10 L/100km if driven gently; worse if you thrash it.

Which Variant?

Best overall: 122S two-door with B20 engine and M40 four-speed manual. This is the one to buy. The B20 has more torque than the B18, the manual is more fun than the auto, and the two-door looks better.

Avoid: Early B18 cars (pre-1961) unless you love originality; they're slower and parts are harder. The BW35 automatic is reliable but saps power and isn't worth the hassle unless you absolutely need an auto.

Wagon: If you need space, the 122S wagon is practical and still looks good, but values are lower.

Don't bother with: Any Amazon that's been "upgraded" with aftermarket wheels, lowering springs, or a badly installed modern radio. These are usually signs of bodged maintenance elsewhere.

The Verdict

The Volvo 122S is for people who want a simple, honest classic that doesn't need a laptop to diagnose. It rewards careful inspection, buy the best body you can afford, because everything else is fixable. If you find a rust-free car with a running B20 and a manual gearbox, buy it. If it's rusty and cheap, walk away unless you're prepared to weld.

This is the car that made Volvo's reputation. There's a reason they're still on the road.