Question 1

Oil consumption

Accepted Answer

You're burning through a quart of oil every 500-1,000 km. Blue smoke on startup or under load. Worn piston rings, valve stem seals, or cylinder bore glaze. The B18/B20 engines are incredibly durable, but after 50+ years and unknown maintenance history, expect wear. Ring gaps open up, seals harden and crack.  - Minor consumption (1 qt per 1,500 km): top up regularly, don't stress. If compression is still decent (check with a gauge, should be 135-150 psi, within 10% across cylinders), ride it out. - Moderate to heavy: rebuild or swap. Rings, hone, new valve stem seals. Budget $1,500-3,000 for a proper rebuild if you pay someone. DIY cuts that in half. - Part numbers for rebuild kits vary by engine code; verify your B18 vs B20 variant before ordering.

Question 2

Carburetor flooding or poor idle

Accepted Answer

Hard starting, fuel smell, rough idle, stalling. Sometimes floods and won't start at all. SU carburetors (common on B18/B20) have needle valves, float bowls, and jets that gum up or wear out. Ethanol fuel accelerates varnish buildup. Float height drifts. Worn throttle shafts allow air leaks.  - Strip and rebuild the carbs. SU rebuild kits are cheap (~$40-60 per carb). Replace needles, seats, gaskets, diaphragms. - Check float height with a ruler: should be around 15-16 mm from gasket face to top of float (verify with your manual). - Inspect throttle shaft play. If worn, you'll need new shafts or carb replacement. - Clean jets with carb cleaner and compressed air. Don't drill them out. - Ethanol-resistant fuel line and fresh fuel filter mandatory.

Question 3

Overheating

Accepted Answer

Temp gauge creeps into the red. Coolant boils over. Steam. Clogged radiator cores, weak water pump, collapsed lower radiator hose, slipping fan belt, stuck thermostat, or head gasket failure (rare on these engines if not previously overheated).  - Start simple: check coolant level, inspect hoses (especially lower, should be reinforced), tighten or replace fan belt. - Verify thermostat opens (Volvo spec is typically 82°C). Test by boiling in a pot of water with a thermometer. - Flush radiator. If it's original, it's probably half-blocked with 60 years of silt and scale. Consider a re-core or replacement (IPD, FCP Euro stock reproduction units). - Water pump: inspect for bearing play or weeping. Rebuild kits exist, but a new pump is often easier (~$80-150). - If all else fails, pressure test the system and check for head gasket or cracked head. B18/B20 heads crack rarely, but it happens if previously cooked.

Question 4

Ignition timing and misfires

Accepted Answer

Pinging under load, backfiring, flat spots, poor throttle response. Worn distributor (points, condenser, cap, rotor), incorrect timing, fouled or wrong-spec spark plugs.  - Set timing with a timing light. Factory spec is usually 10° BTDC at idle (verify in manual for your engine). - Replace points and condenser (~$20 kit). Gap points to 0.4-0.5 mm. - Inspect distributor cap and rotor for carbon tracking, cracks, or corrosion. Replace both (~$30-50). - Use correct plugs: Champion N9Y or equivalent. Gap 0.6-0.7 mm. - Consider electronic ignition conversion (Pertronix Ignitor, ~$100). Eliminates points, more reliable, better cold starts.

Question 5

Leaking radiator

Accepted Answer

Puddles of coolant under the car. Overheating. Radiators don't last forever. Solder joints crack, cores corrode, plastic end tanks (if later replacement) split.  - If it's a minor leak, try a quality stop-leak (Bar's Leaks pellets, not the liquid junk). Temporary fix only. - Proper fix: re-core or replace. Reproduction radiators ~$200-400 from IPD or FCP Euro. - Check radiator cap: should hold 0.9-1.0 bar (13-15 psi). Weak cap = boil-over.

Question 6

Heater core leaking

Accepted Answer

Sweet smell in cabin. Wet carpet on passenger side. Fogged windows that won't clear. Sometimes visible coolant dripping from under dash. Heater cores are made of thin copper tubing. They corrode from the inside out, especially if the system hasn't been flushed in decades.  - Bypass it temporarily: loop a hose from heater inlet to outlet under the hood. You lose cabin heat but can still drive. - Replace it. Dash-out job on a 122S. Budget 6-10 hours if you've never done it. New cores ~$80-150 from specialists. - Flush the system before installing a new core or it'll clog immediately.

Question 7

Fuel pump failure (mechanical)

Accepted Answer

Car cranks but won't start. Sputters and dies. No fuel pressure. Mechanical fuel pumps on the B18/B20 are cam-driven. Diaphragms crack, valves stick, springs weaken. Ethanol accelerates degradation.  - Check fuel pressure: should be around 2-4 psi (verify spec). Use a T-fitting and pressure gauge. - Rebuild kit ~$20-30. Or replace pump outright (~$60-100, ATE or Bosch). - If you're sick of mechanical pumps, fit an inline electric pump (Facet or equivalent, ~$50-80). Mount low, near tank, with a filter before it.

Question 8

Fuel tank rust

Accepted Answer

Sediment in fuel filter. Clogged jets. Fuel starvation. Sometimes visible rust flakes in the filter. Steel tanks rust from the inside. Water condensation, old fuel, decades of sitting.  - Drop and inspect the tank. If surface rust only, clean with phosphoric acid or a commercial tank liner kit (POR-15, Kreem). - If perforated or heavily scaled, replace. Reproduction tanks ~$300-500. - Fit an inline fuel filter between tank and pump. Replace it annually if the tank's sketchy.

Question 9

Weak or no charging

Accepted Answer

Battery warning light on. Battery dies overnight. Dim headlights at idle. Generator (not alternator unless swapped) brushes worn, regulator failed, or bad connections.  - Check belt tension first. Loose belt = no charge. - Test output: should see ~13.5-14.5V at battery with engine running if converted to alternator. Generator output is lower, ~12-13V. - If generator: rebuild or swap to alternator. Alternator conversion kits available (~$150-300). Much more reliable. - Inspect all wiring to the generator/alternator. Corroded terminals are common. Clean and use dielectric grease.

Question 10

Lucas electrics (if fitted on UK-spec cars)

Accepted Answer

Everything electrical is temperamental. Lights flicker. Indicators won't self-cancel. Wipers die mid-wipe. Lucas components earned their reputation. Age, corrosion, poor earths.  - Upgrade where possible. Swap to Hella or Bosch components. - Clean all earth connections. Add extra earth straps from engine to chassis, body to chassis. - Replace old cloth-wrapped wiring if it's crumbling.

Question 11

Fusebox corrosion

Accepted Answer

Intermittent electrical faults. Circuits dead until you wiggle the fusebox. Old ceramic or Bakelite fuseboxes corrode. Contacts oxidize.  - Pull each fuse, clean with contact cleaner and a small wire brush. - Upgrade to a modern blade-type fusebox if you're rewiring (~$30-50). - Check fuse ratings: don't uprate them to "fix" a fault, find the real problem.

Question 12

Gearbox oil leaks

Accepted Answer

Oil spots under the car. Low gearbox oil. Hard shifting or grinding. Worn seals (input shaft, rear output, selector shaft). Age and heat harden seals.  - Top up gearbox oil (SAE 80W-90 GL-4, not GL-5, GL-5 eats brass synchros). Check level via fill plug on side of gearbox. - Replace leaking seals. Input shaft seal requires gearbox removal. Rear seal can be done with gearbox in situ if you drop the driveshaft. - If multiple seals are weeping, consider a full reseal kit (~$50-80).

Question 13

Worn synchros (especially 2nd gear)

Accepted Answer

Grinding or crunching into 2nd gear, especially when cold or shifting quickly. B rass synchro rings wear. Second gear takes the most abuse in daily driving.  - Short term: double-clutch into 2nd. Match revs. - Long term: gearbox rebuild. Synchro rings ~$30-50 each, but labour is the killer if you pay someone. - Ensure you're using GL-4 oil, not GL-5. GL-5 accelerates brass wear.

Question 14

Worn propshaft universal joints

Accepted Answer

Clunk when shifting from drive to coast or vice versa. Vibration at certain speeds. UJs wear out. Grease dries up, needle bearings pit.  - Jack up the car, grab the propshaft and twist. If there's any play, UJs are done. - Replace UJs (~$30-60 for a pair). Press out old ones, press in new ones. You'll need a UJ press or a heavy vice and sockets. - Grease via zerk fittings (if fitted) every oil change.

Question 15

Worn ball joints

Accepted Answer

Clunking over bumps. Wandering steering. Uneven tyre wear. Ball joints wear. Rubber boots crack, grease escapes, water and dirt get in.  - Jack up front end. Grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, rock it. Visible play = bad ball joint. - Replace both lowers (~$40-80 each). Uppers less common to fail but check them. - You'll need a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Don't reuse the nut, fit a new nyloc.

Question 16

Sagging front springs

Accepted Answer

Front end sits low. Poor ride. Headlights aimed at the ground. Springs sag over decades. All 122S springs are tired by now unless already replaced.  - Measure ride height from ground to bottom of wheel arch. Compare side to side. - Replace springs. IPD sells uprated springs (~$100-150 per pair). OEM-spec springs available from FCP Euro. - Do shocks at the same time. Bilstein B6 or Koni are good upgrades (~$80-120 each).

Question 17

Steering box wear

Accepted Answer

Slack at the steering wheel. Car wanders. Needs constant correction. Worm and sector gears wear. Steering boxes can be adjusted, but once adjusted all the way, they need rebuild or replacement.  - Adjust first: there's an adjuster screw on top of the steering box. Tighten until play is gone, but don't bind it. - If adjustment doesn't help, rebuild (~$200-400 for a kit) or source a used box. - Check steering column UJ (rag joint) too, they wear and cause slop.

Question 18

Spongy brake pedal

Accepted Answer

Pedal feels soft. Goes to the floor. Brakes work but feel vague. Air in the system, old fluid (absorbs water, boils easily), or worn master cylinder.  - Bleed brakes. Start furthest from master cylinder (RR, LR, RF, LF). Use fresh DOT 4 fluid. - If pedal still spongy, inspect master cylinder for internal leaks. Rebuild kit ~$30-50, or replace (~$80-150). - Check brake hoses: originals are likely 60 years old. Bulging hoses = spongy pedal. Replace all four flexible hoses (~$20 each).

Question 19

Rear wheel cylinders leaking

Accepted Answer

Fluid on inside of rear wheels. Spongy pedal. Shoes saturated with brake fluid. Wheel cylinder seals perish. Pistons corrode and score the bores.  - Replace wheel cylinders (~$15-30 each). Dirt cheap, no point rebuilding unless you're a masochist. - Replace rear shoes at the same time, fluid contamination ruins them. - Bleed the system after fitting.

Question 20

Front disc brake judder

Accepted Answer

Steering wheel shakes when braking. Pulsing pedal. Warped discs from overheating or uneven tightening of wheel nuts.  - Measure disc runout with a dial gauge. Max ~0.1 mm. - If warped, skim (machine) discs if thickness allows. Minimum thickness usually stamped on disc. - If too thin or heavily scored, replace (~$40-80 per disc). - Fit new pads at the same time (~$30-60 per axle). Bed them in properly: 20-30 gentle stops from 60 km/h, then let cool.

Question 21

Handbrake cable seized

Accepted Answer

Handbrake doesn't hold. Or won't release. Cables rust and seize. Lack of use accelerates it.  - Lubricate cables with penetrating oil (Inox, WD-40, etc.). Work the lever back and forth. - If seized solid, replace cables (~$30-60 for a set). - Adjust handbrake at the equalizer under the car. Should engage 3-5 clicks.

Question 22

Sills and jacking points

Accepted Answer

Rust perforation. Holes. Jack goes through the floor when you try to lift the car. These are drain areas. Water, salt, mud accumulate. Sills on every 122S are suspect unless restored.  - Inspect with a screwdriver. Poke everywhere. If it goes through, it's structural rot. - Proper repair: cut out rot, weld in new metal. IPD and Volvo specialists sell repair panels (~$100-300 per side). - Surface rust: wire brush, treat with rust converter, paint. - Don't bodge this with filler. Sills are structural. If rotten, the car will fold in a crash.

Question 23

Front inner wings / suspension turrets

Accepted Answer

Rust at shock absorber mounts. Cracks in metal. Shock towers separating from inner wing. Road salt, trapped moisture, poor drainage.  - Cut out rot, weld in repair sections. Volvo specialists sell patch panels. - If shock mount is rusted through, do not drive the car. Shock can punch through the bonnet.

Question 24

Floor pans

Accepted Answer

Rust holes in the floor. You can see the road. Water ingress, lack of underseal, decades of entropy.  - Small holes: cut out, weld in patches. - Large areas: replace entire floor section. Repair panels available. - POR-15 or similar rust encapsulator on underside after repair.

Question 25

Bootlid and rear panel rust

Accepted Answer

Bubbling paint. Rust along bottom edge of

122S Amazon

122S Amazon known problems