What's a Volvo 164 worth?

Depends entirely on condition, but you're looking at $3,000-$8,000 for a decent driver in the US. Perfect examples can push higher, but rust is the killer. A solid car with good bones and minor cosmetic issues will sit around $4,000-$5,000. Don't expect bargains, survivors are getting rarer.

What engine does the 164 have?

The B30, Volvo's inline-six. It's essentially a B20 four-cylinder with two extra cylinders grafted on. Two versions: the B30A with dual Stromberg carburettors, and the B30E with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection (same system as the 1800E). The B30E is the one you want, more power, more torque, better driveability. The B30A is solid but slower and fussier with carb tuning.

Is the 164 reliable enough to daily drive?

Yes, with caveats. The mechanicals are stout, the B30 engine is virtually bulletproof and will happily do 250,000+ km if maintained. The dual-circuit brake system is excellent. Seats are comfortable, space is generous, highway cruising is its forte.

But: rust is a serious issue on older examples, parts can be expensive (especially 164-specific trim and that unique front end), and it's not quick. You're not buying this to overtake on the motorway. Think of it as a relaxed, safe, spacious classic that rewards proper maintenance.

What are the common problems?

Rust. The 164 rusts from the inside out, just like the 140. Check:

• Front wings around headlights and indicators
• Sills (three-piece construction, if one's gone, the others are too)
• Area just above the sills and in front of rear wheels
• Floor panels, jack supports, chassis legs
• Spare wheel container and surrounding bodywork
• Area around windscreen and rear window (especially if chrome trim clips are rusty)
• Door bottoms (drain holes block, water sits, metal rots)
• Rain gutter
• Crossmember under the bonnet

The 164's front wings are very expensive to replace. If they're rusty, walk away or factor in serious money.

Electrical gremlins on D-Jetronic cars (B30E): the injection system is reliable if unmolested, but parts are getting scarce and expensive. Injectors, wiring harnesses, and the ECU are hard to find.

Overheating if the cooling system hasn't been maintained. The B30 runs a bigger radiator than the B20 but it's still marginal if you're in stop-start traffic on a hot day.

Where do I find parts?

Most mechanical bits are shared with the 140-series or Amazon, so those are easy and cheap. Engine parts for the B30 are also straightforward.

But: 164-specific trim, that unique grille, front wings, interior bits, and some D-Jetronic fuel injection components are harder and pricier. Budget accordingly.

Online: FCP Euro, IPD, Rock Auto (US), Volvopartswebshop, Swedish specialists like Skandix. Join the forums, Brickboard, MatthewsVolvoSite, Volvotips, and you'll find people breaking cars or know where to source the obscure stuff.

What should I check when buying a 164?

Rust. Honestly, just rust. Bring a magnet, a screwdriver, and get under the car. If the sills, floor, or front crossmember are shot, walk away unless you can weld or know someone cheap who can. Welding a 164 properly is expensive because wings and sills are integrated into the chassis.

Check:

• Front wings: rust around headlights, above and below indicators, inner wheelarches
• Sills: tap them, check for filler with a magnet, look inside the doorways
• Floor and jack points: get under it
• Spare wheel well and surrounding tinwork
• Windscreen and rear window surrounds: look for white "fog" in the glass (moisture intrusion = rust nearby)
• Doors: bottom edges, check drain holes aren't blocked
• Bonnet hinges and crossmember: common rot spots

Mechanicals: the B30 should idle with a slight lump (if it's too smooth, it's worn). Check for oil leaks, listen for rattles. The gearbox (M400, M410, or BW35 auto) should shift cleanly. Overdrive should engage without drama. Rear axle (Spicer) is robust but check for leaks and play.

Interior: check the seats, dash (cracks?), wood trim, and that all the electrics work. Replacing trim is fiddly and expensive.

Can I use a 164 as a first classic car?

If you're handy with spanners and understand the rust risk, yes. If you can't weld and don't have a backup car, maybe not.

The 164 is more refined than a 140 but mechanically very similar. Parts are mostly shared with other Volvos so you're not stranded. It's comfortable, safe (for its era), and rewarding to drive. Just don't kid yourself about rust, it's the make-or-break issue.

How much does insurance cost?

Depends on your location, age, driving record, and agreed value. In the UK or Australia, classic policies are usually cheap if you're over 25 and the car's not a daily. Budget £150-£300/year for agreed value cover. In the US, Hagerty or Grundy will be similar. Get an agreed-value policy and keep photos of the car's condition.

What modifications are popular?

Not much. The 164 isn't a tuner car. Most owners focus on:

• Keeping it stock and clean: originality is valued
• Upgraded headlights: H4 halogens if you're stuck with sealed beams
• Electronic ignition: EZ-K or similar for reliability
• Suspension refresh: Koni shocks, uprated bushings
• Alloy wheels: Virgos (from 240 Turbo/GLT), Hydras, or period-correct aftermarket

Engine swaps are rare but some have fitted later B230FT turbos or even LS V8s. That's a lot of work and money for a car that's happiest as a comfortable cruiser.

How does it compare to a 140?

More refined, more comfortable, more expensive to run. The B30 is smoother and torquier than a B20. The 164 has better seats, more sound insulation, wood trim, and a longer wheelbase. It feels more like a luxury car.

But: parts are dearer, the front wings are a nightmare if rusty, and it's not significantly faster. The 140 is the better choice if you want cheap, cheerful, and easy to maintain. The 164 is for people who want a bit more occasion.

What's the deal with the 165 Estate?

It doesn't exist from the factory. Every "165" you see is a home-built conversion. Volvo never made an estate version of the 164. Some enthusiasts have grafted 145 rear ends onto 164 front clips, but it's a custom job and not common.

Does the 164 handle well?

For its era, yes. It's not a sports car but it's competent and safe. The longer wheelbase makes it more stable than a 140 on the motorway. Steering is direct (rack-and-pinion), brakes are excellent (dual-circuit discs all round), and the MacPherson front suspension is better than the 140's old-school setup.

It understeers if you push it, but you're not buying a 164 to hustle. It's a relaxed, dignified long-distance cruiser.

Is the automatic gearbox any good?

The BW35 is tough and simple. Not quick, not sporty, but reliable. If you want a relaxed cruiser, it's fine. If you like rowing your own gears, find a manual, the M400 or M410 are strong and straightforward.

The auto does sap some of the B30's already modest power, so the manual is quicker and more engaging.

What oil should I use?

20W-50 mineral oil for the B30 unless you're in a very cold climate. Volvo specified 20W-50 for these engines. Modern 10W-40 or 15W-40 is fine if you prefer, but don't overthink it, these engines aren't fussy.

Change it every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) if you're using it regularly. Check the level often, these engines can seep oil from various seals but shouldn't burn much if healthy.

Gearbox: SAE 80W or ATF depending on type (manual or auto). Check your manual.

Summary: should I buy a 164?

If you want a comfortable, safe, distinctive classic Volvo with a smooth six-cylinder engine and you're prepared to deal with rust and slightly higher running costs than a 140, yes. It's a rewarding car that feels special without being precious.

If you want cheap and cheerful, buy a 140 or 240 instead. The 164 is for people who appreciate the details, the wood, the seats, that creamy B30, and don't mind paying a bit more for the privilege.