Question 1

Oil Leaks from Camshaft Seals and Gaskets

Accepted Answer

Oil weeps or pools around the valve cover, drips down the side of the block, or accumulates around the timing cover. You might also see oil on the bellhousing or clutch/flywheel area. Age. Fifty-year-old rubber seals and cork gaskets don't age gracefully. Heat cycling and oil degradation accelerate the breakdown. The rear camshaft seal is particularly prone to failure and often misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak. Valve cover gasket is cheap and straightforward, new gasket, clean mating surfaces, torque evenly. Front timing cover gaskets require more work but are manageable. The rear camshaft seal is the nasty one, it sits at the back of the head, and oil leaking here runs down onto the bellhousing. Don't let a mechanic tell you it's the rear main seal at mega-bucks cost. A $10 rear cam seal and a few hours of your time is all you need. Strip the ignition components, remove the distributor, and replace the seal.

Question 2

Carburettor Issues (B30A/E with Dual Strombergs)

Accepted Answer

Rough idle, hesitation, stalling when cold, uneven running, black exhaust smoke, poor fuel economy. The B30 uses two Stromberg carburettors that must be perfectly synchronised. Worn throttle shafts, clogged jets, perished diaphragms, or incorrect float levels will cause running problems. Ethanol fuel doesn't help, it rots old rubber components and varnishes the internals. Full strip-down, ultrasonic clean, rebuild with a proper kit. Replace all rubber components, set float heights correctly, synchronise the carbs with a flow meter or listening tube. If the throttle shafts are sloppy, bush them or replace the carb bodies. Some owners convert to Weber carbs or even Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a later B20E for reliability, but originality suffers.

Question 3

Cooling System Neglect

Accepted Answer

Overheating, coolant loss, white smoke from the exhaust (head gasket failure), corroded radiator, seized water pump. Old coolant turns acidic and eats away at aluminium and brass components. The B30's iron block and aluminium head require proper inhibited coolant. Neglect leads to internal corrosion, blocked passages, and ultimately head gasket failure. Flush the system thoroughly. Replace the radiator if it's corroded or leaking, reproduction units are available. Fit a new water pump (check for play in the bearing and shaft seal condition), new thermostat (test it in boiling water first), and fresh hoses. Use proper extended-life coolant with corrosion inhibitors. Replace the radiator cap, a weak cap allows the system to boil over.

Question 4

Ignition System Wear

Accepted Answer

Hard starting, misfiring, poor performance, backfiring through the carburettor. Points-type ignition with a mechanical distributor. Points wear, condenser fails, distributor shaft bushings get sloppy, advance mechanisms seize. Old plug leads leak voltage to ground. Service the distributor: new points, condenser, rotor, cap. Check and set dwell and timing. Lubricate the distributor cam and advance mechanism. Replace plug leads with quality silicone items. Fit new spark plugs (correct heat range). Many owners convert to electronic ignition (Pertronix or similar), eliminates points wear and improves reliability.

Question 5

Radiator Corrosion and Leaks

Accepted Answer

Coolant loss, overheating, visible corrosion or green staining around the radiator core or end tanks. Old brass/copper radiators corrode internally from acidic coolant and externally from road salt. Plastic end tanks on later units crack with age. Replace or re-core the radiator. Reproduction cores are available and reasonably priced. When fitting, use new rubber mounts and ensure the fan shroud seals properly to the radiator.

Question 6

Heater Core Failure

Accepted Answer

Coolant smell in the cabin, wet carpets on the passenger side, fogged windscreen that won't clear, coolant loss with no external leak. The heater core is a small radiator hidden deep in the dashboard. Age and corrosion cause pinhole leaks. It's a miserable, labour-intensive job to replace. Remove the entire dashboard. Seriously. That's what it takes. The heater box is behind and below the dash, and there's no shortcut. Expect a full day of work if you're handy, or hundreds in labour if you pay someone. Fit a new core, flush the heater circuit, and reassemble with new seals and hoses.

Question 7

Fuel Tank Rust and Sediment

Accepted Answer

Fuel starvation, rough running, clogged fuel filters, fuel pump failure. Steel fuel tanks rust from the inside, especially if the car has sat unused for long periods with stale fuel. Rust flakes and varnish block the fuel pickup and wreck the fuel pump. Drop the tank, inspect internally. If it's rusty, either replace it or have it professionally cleaned and sealed with a fuel-safe liner (POR-15, Red-Kote). Fit a new fuel pickup sock, inline fuel filter, and inspect all fuel lines for cracking or corrosion. Replace the fuel pump if it's noisy or weak.

Question 8

Fuel Pump Wear (Mechanical and Electric)

Accepted Answer

Hard starting, hesitation under load, fuel starvation at higher RPM. Mechanical pumps (driven off the camshaft) wear out, diaphragm splits, valves fail, pushrod wears. Electric pumps (if fitted) also fail with age. Replace the fuel pump. Mechanical pumps are cheap and easy to fit (new gasket, check pushrod length). If converting to electric, mount it near the tank, use proper fuel hose rated for injection pressures, and fit a relay. Test fuel pressure: should be around 3-4 psi for carburettors.

Question 9

Alternator and Voltage Regulator Failure

Accepted Answer

Battery goes flat, dim lights, erratic charging, battery boiling over. The Bosch alternators used are robust but eventually wear out, brushes wear down, diodes fail, bearings seize. External mechanical voltage regulators (on early 164s) fail and overcharge or undercharge the battery. Test charging voltage at the battery with the engine running, should be 13.8-14.4V. If it's outside this range, test the alternator and regulator separately. Replace brushes if worn (cheap fix), or fit a reconditioned alternator. Later internal-regulator alternators are more reliable, consider upgrading.

Question 10

Wiring Harness Degradation

Accepted Answer

Intermittent electrical faults, instruments cutting out, lights flickering, blown fuses, burning smell. Fifty-year-old cloth-covered or early PVC wiring becomes brittle, cracks, and shorts to ground. Connections corrode. Vibration and heat accelerate the process. Inspect the harness thoroughly. Look for cracked insulation, green corrosion at connectors, melted wires. Repair individual circuits as needed or, if it's really bad, replace the entire harness with a reproduction item. Use proper crimp connectors and heat-shrink, not insulation tape. Clean all earth points and apply dielectric grease.

Question 11

Fusebox Corrosion

Accepted Answer

Intermittent electrical faults, circuits cutting in and out, blown fuses. The fusebox lives under the bonnet on early 164s, exposed to moisture and road salt. Corrosion builds up on the fuse clips and terminals. Remove each fuse, clean the terminals with fine abrasive paper or a contact cleaner, apply dielectric grease. If the fusebox itself is corroded beyond saving, replacements are available. Some owners relocate the fusebox inside the cabin for better protection.

Question 12

Manual Gearbox (M40/M41) Worn Synchros

Accepted Answer

Crunching into second or third gear, difficult shifting when cold, grinding noises. The M40/M41 gearboxes are tough but not indestructible. Synchromesh rings wear with high mileage or abuse. Second gear is usually the first to go. Full gearbox strip-down and rebuild. Replace synchro rings, check the condition of the gear teeth, replace bearings as needed. It's a skilled job, if you're not confident, find a gearbox specialist. Alternatively, source a good used gearbox from a breaker.

Question 13

Overdrive (M41) Failure

Accepted Answer

Overdrive won't engage, engages but kicks out under load, grinds or whines. The overdrive unit bolted to the back of the M41 gearbox is electrically actuated. Solenoid failure, worn clutch pack, low oil level, or internal mechanical wear all cause problems. Check the simple stuff first: fuse, relay, wiring to the overdrive switch on the gearbox. Test the solenoid. If the overdrive unit itself is faulty, it's a strip-down job, clutch plates, springs, and one-way bearings can all wear out. Ensure the gearbox and overdrive have the correct oil level (often overlooked).

Question 14

Propshaft Centre Bearing Failure

Accepted Answer

Vibration at speed, clunking or rattling from under the car, especially on acceleration or deceleration. The two-piece propshaft has a centre bearing that wears with age and mileage. Perished rubber mounts and worn universal joints (UJs) also contribute. Replace the centre bearing and its rubber mount. Check the UJs at the same time, if they have any play, replace them. Ensure the propshaft is balanced and the flanges are clean when refitting.

Question 15

Differential Wear and Noise

Accepted Answer

Whining or howling from the rear axle, especially under load or when coasting. Clunking when changing direction (forwards to reverse). Worn pinion bearings, differential side bearings, or backlash in the crownwheel and pinion. Low or contaminated oil accelerates wear. Drop the differential oil and inspect for metal particles. If there's excessive play or noise, it's a rebuild or replacement job. Setting up a diff correctly (shims, preload, backlash) requires skill and special tools, best left to a specialist unless you're experienced.

Question 16

Front Suspension Bushings and Ball Joints

Accepted Answer

Clunking over bumps, vague steering, uneven tyre wear, wandering on the road. Rubber bushings perish and tear with age. Ball joints wear and develop play. The 164 uses a solid front axle with trailing arms, bushings in the arms and at the mounting points all wear. Jack up the front, grab each wheel and check for play. Inspect all bushings visually for cracks or tearing. Replace ball joints if there's any vertical or horizontal play. Polyurethane bushings are available and last longer than rubber but transmit more noise. Recheck alignment after replacing any suspension components.

Question 17

Steering Box Play and Leaks

Accepted Answer

Excessive play at the steering wheel (more than an inch or so of movement before the wheels respond), heavy steering, groaning noises, power steering fluid leaks. The recirculating-ball steering box wears internally. Seals perish and leak. Adjusters go out of spec. Check for play by having someone rock the steering wheel while you watch the input shaft at the steering box. A small amount of adjustment is possible via the screw on top of the box, but don't overdo it or the steering will bind. If it's leaking or excessively worn, replace or recondition the steering box. Parts are still available.

Question 18

Rear Suspension Radius Arm Bushings

Accepted Answer

Clunking from the rear over bumps, axle tramping under hard acceleration, vague handling. The rear axle is located by trailing radius arms with large rubber bushings at the front mounts. These bushings perish and tear with age. Replace the bushings. Access is reasonable, but you'll need a press or large vice to remove and install the new bushings into the radius arms. Polyurethane replacements are available and more durable.

Question 19

Master Cylinder and Servo Failure

Accepted Answer

Spongy or long brake pedal travel, brakes feel weak or unresponsive, brake fluid leaks inside the cabin or at the master cylinder. The dual-circuit master cylinder has seals that perish with age. The servo diaphragm can fail, causing loss of brake assist. Contaminated brake fluid accelerates wear. Rebuild or replace the master cylinder. If the servo is faulty (check by pressing the brake pedal with the engine off, then start the engine, pedal should drop noticeably), replace or recondition it. Bleed the entire brake system thoroughly using fresh DOT 4 fluid. Never reuse old brake fluid.

Question 20

Brake Disc and Caliper Wear

Accepted Answer

Pulsing brake pedal, pulling to one side under braking, squealing or grinding noises, seized caliper pistons. Brake discs wear and warp with use. Caliper pistons seize if not exercised regularly or if moisture contaminates the fluid. Pad material hardens with age. Replace discs and pads as a set. If a caliper is seized, rebuild it (new seals, pistons, dust boots) or replace it. Clean and lubricate the slider pins. Bleed the brakes and check for leaks. Ensure the handbrake mechanism is free and adjusted correctly.

Question 21

Sills (Rocker Panels)

Accepted Answer

Visible rust bubbling through paint, holes in the sills, softness when you poke them with a screwdriver. The sills are three-piece structures (outer sill, inner sill, central box section) that trap water and mud. When drain holes block, the sills rust from the inside out. Salt accelerates the process. Cut out the rot and weld in new metal. Sill repair sections are available, but often the inner structure is rotten too, making it a major job. If you're not a competent welder, this is expensive. If the sills are rusty, assume the inner sills and jacking points are also compromised.

Question 22

Front Wings and Wheel Arches

Accepted Answer

Rust around the headlights, above the front wheels, at the base of the wings where they meet the sills. The front wings are bolted on, but water and mud sit behind them and rust through from the inside. Inner splash shields (if missing) would normally protect this area. Front wings are replaceable, unbolt and fit new (pattern or NOS). If the inner structure is rusty, cut out the rot and weld in new metal before fitting the new wing. Fit Locari inner splash shields to prevent future problems.

Question 23

Rear Wheel Arches and Spare Wheel Well

Accepted Answer

Rust in the rear wheel arches, around the fuel filler, and in the spare wheel well. Holes through the floor of the boot. These areas are exposed to road spray and trap moisture. The spare wheel well in particular holds water if the drain holes are blocked. Cut out the rust and weld in new panels. Rear wheel arch repair sections are available. Clean out the spare wheel well, drill out any blocked drain holes, treat with rust inhibitor, and paint. Check the fuel tank while you're there, if it's rusty, replace it.

164

164 known problems