What is the difference between a Datsun 510 and a Datsun 1600?

They are the same car, sold under different names in different markets. In North America, it was the Datsun 510. In Australia, New Zealand, and some other markets, it was the Datsun 1600 (referring to the 1.6-litre engine displacement). The Japanese domestic market name was the Nissan Bluebird 510 (or P510 for the original sedan).

All markets received essentially the same car -- the differences were limited to badging, lighting regulations, and minor trim variations. Parts are interchangeable between all variants.

Why is it called "the poor man's BMW 2002"?

The Datsun 510 and BMW 2002 share a remarkably similar formula: compact, lightweight, rear-wheel-drive sedans with overhead-cam four-cylinder engines, independent rear suspension, and a chassis that prioritised driving engagement. Both were designed in the mid-1960s and sold to similar markets.

The key difference was price. The BMW 2002 was approximately 40--50% more expensive than the Datsun 510 in most markets. The 510 offered a comparable (some would say superior) driving experience for significantly less money. Hence "the poor man's BMW 2002" -- a compliment that acknowledged the 510 could run with a car that cost far more.

Today, the price difference has narrowed considerably. Clean 510s are approaching BMW 2002 territory in the classic car market, reflecting the belated recognition of the 510's significance.

Which model should I buy?

2-door SSS: The most desirable variant. Lightest, stiffest, with the sporting extras (twin carburettors, close-ratio gearbox, disc brakes on some). Commands the highest prices.

2-door standard: Same body, same weight advantage, but without the SSS equipment. A good buy if you plan to modify the car anyway.

4-door: The most affordable option. Same mechanicals, same engine, same suspension. More practical for daily use. Less desirable to collectors but an excellent driver's car.

Wagon: Increasingly collectible, particularly in the American market. Practical, distinctive, and cool in a way that only a 1970s Japanese wagon can be.

For most buyers, the 2-door in any specification is the best choice. The weight advantage and increased body rigidity make a noticeable difference to the driving experience.

How bad is the rust?

Very bad. The 510/1600 is one of the rustiest Japanese cars of its era. The thin-gauge steel, primitive corrosion protection, and numerous water traps mean that virtually every surviving example has been affected. In Australia, without road salt, the corrosion is slower than in North American or European examples, but it is relentless.

The most critical areas are the floor pans (check the driver's footwell first), sills (box sections that rot from inside), inner front guards around the strut towers (structural), rear wheel arches (both inner and outer), and the spare tyre well.

Finding a rust-free 510/1600 in 2026 is essentially impossible. The question is always "how much rust and where?" Cosmetic rust on bolt-on panels (fenders, doors) is repairable. Structural rust in the floors, sills, and inner guards is expensive and difficult.

The biggest challenge: body parts are extremely scarce. Unlike the MGB, where you can buy virtually every panel from a catalogue, 510 body parts are either very expensive reproductions or unavailable. This makes a solid body the single most valuable aspect of any 510/1600.

Are parts available?

It depends on the part:

Engine parts: Excellent availability. The L-series engine was used in the 510, 610, 710, 620 truck, 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, and numerous other Datsun/Nissan models. Pistons, bearings, gaskets, timing components, and most mechanical parts are readily available through Nissan parts suppliers and the aftermarket.

Suspension and brakes: Good availability. Most suspension bushings, ball joints, and brake components are available through specialists. Disc brake conversion parts are available as kits.

Electrical: Adequate. Alternators, starters, and ignition components are available. Wiring harnesses can be sourced through specialists.

Body parts: Poor. This is the critical shortage. Reproduction panels exist for some areas (floor sections, some outer panels), but quality varies and many are specific to certain markets (JDM vs. export). Original body panels from wreckers are extremely scarce -- most scrap 510s have been picked clean. Finding a clean body is far more important than finding a good engine.

Interior: Poor to adequate. Seat trim, dashboard components, and specific interior fittings are difficult to source.

Can I daily drive a 510/1600?

You can, but it's not ideal as an only car in 2026. The 510/1600 has no air conditioning, no power steering, basic brakes (drum all round in standard form), and safety equipment limited to seatbelts. It is small, light, and vulnerable in modern traffic.

That said, a well-maintained 510 with a disc brake conversion and good tyres is a perfectly functional daily driver for someone who understands its limitations. The engine is reliable, the gearbox is adequate, and the car starts and runs consistently when maintained.

Many Australian 510 owners use them as weekend cars and sunny-day commuters, keeping a modern car for daily use. This is the practical approach -- you get to enjoy the 510 when conditions are ideal without relying on it for essential transport.

Should I convert to disc brakes?

Yes. The standard all-drum brakes are the 510/1600's single biggest weakness. They are barely adequate by 1967 standards and dangerously inadequate in modern traffic. A front disc brake conversion using later Datsun components (280ZX callipers and rotors are the most common donor) is one of the most important upgrades you can make. Budget $500--1,000 for a front disc conversion kit.

If the car already has front disc brakes (some SSS models came with them), ensure they are in good condition with fresh pads and properly maintained callipers.

What engine oil should I use?

20W-50 mineral oil for the L-series engine. The engine was designed for mineral oil and the clearances suit it. Synthetic oil is unnecessary and can cause leaks through old gaskets.

Oil capacity: approximately 3.8 litres with filter. Change every 5,000 km or 6 months. Use a quality filter.

What about engine swaps?

Engine swaps are common in the 510/1600 and generally accepted by the community. Popular options:

L18/L20B (1.8L/2.0L L-series): The most period-correct upgrade. These larger L-series engines bolt directly in with minimal modification. The L20B adds meaningful power (approximately 120--130 hp vs the L16's 96 hp) while maintaining the car's original character. Parts are plentiful.

KA24DE (2.4L DOHC): From the Nissan 240SX/Silvia. A modern, reliable engine with 150+ hp that fits with moderate fabrication. Requires custom engine mounts and wiring.

SR20DE/DET (2.0L DOHC/Turbo): From the Nissan Silvia/180SX. The SR20DET adds turbo power (200+ hp) in a relatively compact package. A popular swap but requires significant modification including engine mounts, wiring, cooling, and often a transmission swap.

The L-series swaps (L18, L20B) are the most commonly recommended for a car that will be street-driven. They maintain the car's period character, use the existing engine mounts and transmission, and are simple enough for a competent home mechanic. The SR20 swap transforms the car into something much faster but also changes its character fundamentally.

How does it compare to the BMW 2002?

The comparison is inevitable and instructive:

Engine: Both are overhead-cam fours. The BMW M10 is a slightly more refined engine with a smoother power delivery. The L16 is more willing to rev and arguably more tuneable on a budget.

Chassis: The 510 has independent rear suspension; the BMW 2002 has semi-trailing arms. Both are excellent. The 510 is lighter (approximately 900 kg vs 1,050 kg), which gives it an advantage in responsiveness.

Steering: Both use rack-and-pinion. Both are excellent. The BMW has slightly more feedback; the 510 is slightly quicker.

Brakes: The BMW 2002 has front discs standard. The base 510 has drums all round. Advantage BMW unless the 510 has been converted.

Parts and support: The BMW 2002 has a more established and comprehensive parts supply. The 510 has good engine parts availability but poor body parts supply. The BMW community is larger, but the 510/Datsun community is passionate and helpful.

Price: The BMW 2002 is more expensive in equivalent condition, but the gap has narrowed considerably.

Overall: Both are exceptional driver's cars. The BMW is more refined; the 510 is more raw and responsive. If you can only have one, it comes down to personal preference. If you want the pure driving experience, the 510's lighter weight gives it an edge. If you want the better-supported ownership experience, the BMW wins.

What is the BRE 510?

BRE (Brock Racing Enterprises) was the race team run by Pete Brock (designer of the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe) that campaigned Datsun 510s to championship success in the SCCA Trans-Am 2.5 Challenge series in 1971 and 1972. The BRE 510s, driven primarily by John Morton, became iconic in American motorsport.

The BRE livery -- a distinctive stripe scheme on the 510's body -- is one of the most recognisable racing liveries of the era. Replica BRE 510s are popular in the enthusiast community. An authentic BRE race car would be priceless.

BRE's success was crucial to establishing Datsun as a performance brand in America. It demonstrated that the 510 was not just an economy car -- it was a serious competition machine that could beat established European and American racing cars.

Is the 510/1600 a good investment?

The 510/1600 has appreciated dramatically over the past decade, particularly the 2-door variants. Clean 2-door 510s have roughly tripled in value since 2015, driven by recognition of the car's motorsport heritage, growing appreciation for 1970s Japanese cars, and the simple reality that clean examples are becoming rare.

The long-term outlook is positive. The 510 is a historically significant car with genuine racing heritage, limited surviving examples (rust has claimed the majority), and growing collector interest internationally. American buyers in particular are driving prices upward.

The risk: a 510 can lose value rapidly if rust returns or if a previous restoration was poorly executed. Invest in the car's condition -- particularly the body -- and values should continue to appreciate.

Can I register and drive a 510/1600 on the road in Australia?

Yes. The 510/1600 was sold new in Australia and is eligible for full registration in all states. Many are registered on club plates (conditional registration) which reduces costs but limits use to specific purposes (club events, maintenance runs, etc.).

For full registration, the car must pass a roadworthy inspection. This typically requires functioning brakes, lights, seatbelts, and a compliant exhaust. Modified cars (engine swaps, suspension changes) may require engineering certification depending on the extent of the modifications and the state.

What's the most important thing to check when buying?

The body. Everything else is secondary. The engine can be rebuilt ($2,000--4,000). The gearbox can be replaced ($500--1,500). The suspension can be refreshed ($500--1,500). The brakes can be converted to disc ($500--1,000). But if the body is rotten -- floors gone, sills crumbling, inner guards corroded, strut towers weakened -- the repair costs can exceed the car's value, and suitable replacement panels may not exist.

Check the floors (lift the carpet), the sills (push firmly), the inner guards (look from underneath), the strut towers (look from above and below), and the rear arches (inner and outer). Bring a magnet to check for body filler.

A 510 with a tired engine and a solid body is a good buy. A 510 with a fresh engine and a rotten body is a trap.

What is the 510 community like?

The 510/1600 community is one of the most passionate and supportive in the classic car world. Forums (Ratsun.net is the primary English-language resource), Facebook groups, car clubs, and specialist workshops maintain an active network of enthusiasts who share knowledge, source parts, and support each other.

In Australia, the Datsun Car Club and various state-level Nissan/Datsun clubs hold regular events, track days, and social gatherings. The community is welcoming to newcomers and generous with advice. Joining before you buy is strongly recommended -- experienced members can help you assess potential purchases and avoid common pitfalls.