Question 1

Floor Pan Corrosion

Accepted Answer

Soft, spongy, or perforated floor pans. Wet carpet after rain. Road noise increases noticeably as the floors thin. In extreme cases, the floor is partially or entirely gone. The floor pans are thin-gauge steel with minimal factory corrosion protection. Road spray from below and water entry from above (through deteriorated seals) attack the metal from both sides. Australian humidity accelerates the process even without road salt. Weld in repair panels. Some reproduction floor sections are available; others must be fabricated from flat sheet steel by a competent panel beater. This is a common and well-understood repair in the 510 community. Cost: $500--1,500 per section, depending on extent and fabrication requirements.

Question 2

Sill (Rocker Panel) Corrosion

Accepted Answer

The outer sill skin softens and crumbles. Door alignment changes as the inner sill structure weakens. The car may creak or flex over bumps. Box-section sills trap water when drain holes block. Corrosion works from inside, so the damage is often worse than it appears from outside. Full sill replacement -- inner and outer sections. Some repair panels are available; others require fabrication. Cost: $1,000--2,500 per side.

Question 3

Inner Guard and Strut Tower Corrosion

Accepted Answer

The inner front fenders around the MacPherson strut top mounts corrode and thin. In severe cases, the strut tower can deform under load. Road spray and trapped moisture in the double-skinned areas around the radiator support and inner guards. Poor drainage design traps water. Fabricate and weld repair sections. Strut tower reinforcement plates are available from some specialists. Cost: $800--2,000 per side.

Question 4

Rear Wheel Arch Corrosion

Accepted Answer

Bubbling paint, perforation, and structural weakening of the inner and outer rear wheel arches. Road spray and debris accumulate between the inner and outer skins. The rear suspension mounting points are nearby, so severe rust can affect them. Cut out and replace with new metal. Some reproduction arch sections are available. Cost: $500--1,500 per side.

Question 5

Spare Tyre Well Corrosion

Accepted Answer

The boot floor around the spare tyre well perforates. Water pools in the spare tyre recess. Water enters through tail-light seals and boot seal failures. The spare tyre well is the lowest point and collects water that doesn't drain. Weld in repair sections. Cost: $300--800.

Question 6

Oil Leaks

Accepted Answer

Oil seepage and dripping from multiple points on the engine. Common leak points: valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, distributor shaft seal, cam seal. The L-series uses cork, rubber, and paper gaskets that deteriorate over 55 years. The L16 was not the tightest engine when new; age makes everything worse. Systematic reseal. Replace all gaskets and seals in one session. The rear main seal requires gearbox removal. Cost: $150--300 DIY for gasket set, $500--1,000 at a workshop for a full reseal.

Question 7

Timing Chain and Tensioner Wear

Accepted Answer

Rattling or slapping noise from the front of the engine, particularly on cold start. In severe cases, the chain skips a tooth, altering valve timing and potentially causing valve-to-piston contact. The timing chain stretches and the tensioner wears over 100,000+ km. The chain guide rails also wear and can break, allowing the chain to contact the timing cover. Replace the timing chain, tensioner, and guides as a set. This is a common and well-documented job on the L-series. Cost: $200--500.

Question 8

Overheating

Accepted Answer

Temperature gauge climbs, particularly in traffic or on hot days. Coolant loss. The L16's cooling system is adequate in temperate climates but marginal in Australian summer heat. The original radiator loses efficiency with age. Thermostat sticking, water pump wear, and collapsed hoses all contribute. Aluminium radiator upgrade ($250--450), new thermostat ($15--30), new water pump ($50--100), and all new coolant hoses. Total cooling system refresh: $300--600.

Question 9

Head Gasket Failure

Accepted Answer

Coolant in the oil (milky residue on dipstick), oil in the coolant, white exhaust smoke, persistent overheating, coolant consumption. The L-series has a cast-iron block and aluminium head -- different thermal expansion rates stress the head gasket, particularly after overheating episodes. The original asbestos head gaskets deteriorate with age. Remove the head, check it for warping and cracks (skim if necessary), replace with a modern composite head gasket. Cost: $500--1,200 for head gasket replacement including head skim.

Question 10

Carburettor Wear

Accepted Answer

Rough idle, hesitation on acceleration, poor fuel economy, rich or lean running. The Hitachi SU-type carburettor develops throttle shaft bushing wear, needle and jet wear, and perished diaphragms. Float valves stick. Jets block with varnish from old fuel. Rebuild with a carburettor kit ($40--80). If the throttle shaft bushings are worn, the carburettor body needs rebushing (specialist job: $60--120). Many 510 owners upgrade to twin round-top SU carburettors or a Weber DCOE setup for better performance. Cost: $300--800 for a Weber DCOE conversion.

Question 11

Synchro Wear

Accepted Answer

Grinding when shifting into 2nd or 3rd gear, particularly on quick downshifts. The standard 4-speed gearbox is not a strong unit. The synchro rings wear, particularly with enthusiastic driving. The gear teeth are adequate but not over-engineered. Rebuild with new synchro rings ($600--1,200) or swap to a 5-speed from a later Datsun (240Z, 280ZX, or similar). The 5-speed is a stronger unit with an overdrive ratio that makes highway cruising more relaxed. 5-speed conversion: $500--1,500 including gearbox, crossmember modification, and propshaft adjustment.

Question 12

Inadequate Drum Brakes

Accepted Answer

Long stopping distances, brake fade under repeated heavy braking, pulling to one side, poor pedal feel. The standard 510/1600 has drum brakes on all four wheels. This was adequate by 1967 standards but is dangerously inadequate by modern standards, particularly if the car has been fitted with a more powerful engine. Convert the front brakes to discs. Conversion kits using later Datsun components (280ZX callipers and rotors) are available from specialists. This is one of the most important safety upgrades for any 510/1600 that will be driven in modern traffic. Cost: $500--1,000 for a front disc conversion.

Question 13

Brake Component Deterioration

Accepted Answer

Spongy pedal, pulling to one side, brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and brake hoses deteriorate over 55 years. Rubber seals swell and leak. Flexible hoses develop internal restrictions that prevent proper fluid flow. Replace the master cylinder ($60--120), all wheel cylinders ($30--60 each), and all flexible brake hoses ($40--80 per set). Rebuild kits are available for most components. Total brake system refresh: $200--500 (drum system) or $500--1,000 (including disc conversion).

Question 14

Basic Wiring Deterioration

Accepted Answer

Intermittent lights, non-functioning accessories, no-start conditions. The 510/1600's electrical system is basic but functional when new. After 55 years, the wiring insulation becomes brittle, connectors corrode, and earth connections develop resistance. Previous owners' modifications (stereos, additional lights, engine swaps) often add poorly executed wiring. Inspect the wiring harness, repair damaged sections, clean all connectors and earth points. A full replacement wiring harness: $400--800. Cost for targeted repairs: $100--300.

Question 15

Alternator/Generator Failure

Accepted Answer

Dim lights, dead battery, charging warning light. Early 510/1600s use a generator (dynamo); later cars have an alternator. Both types have worn brushes and failed regulators after 55 years. Replace or rebuild. An alternator upgrade (if still on a generator) improves charging significantly. Cost: $80--200.

Question 16

Bushing Deterioration

Accepted Answer

Clunking from the suspension, vague steering, uneven tyre wear, poor handling. All the rubber bushings in the front struts, rear semi-trailing arms, and anti-roll bar (if fitted) have perished over 55 years. Worn bushings allow the suspension geometry to shift under load, degrading the 510's normally excellent handling. Replace all bushings. Polyurethane bushings are available for most locations and are more durable than rubber. Front suspension rebuild kit: $150--300. Rear trailing arm bushings: $80--150 per side.

Question 17

Shock Absorber Wear

Accepted Answer

Wallowing, bouncing, poor body control, excessive body roll. The original shock absorbers are long past their service life. Even replacement shocks fitted 20 years ago are likely worn. Replace with quality aftermarket dampers. KYB and Koni units are available. Cost: $200--400 per set.

1600 / 510

1600 / 510 known problems