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MOTRS

1600 / 510

1967-1973 / Sedan / Japan

1600 / 510

Photo: Charlie from United Kingdom / Wikimedia Commons CC BY 2.0

// THE STORY

The Datsun 1600 and its later evolution as the 510 represent a genuine turning point in affordable motoring. Released in 1967, this compact sedan brought Japanese engineering competence to the masses at a time when reliability was far from guaranteed in budget cars. With its willing 1.6-litre four-cylinder engine, rack-and-pinion steering, and surprisingly sorted chassis dynamics, the 1600/510 proved that you didn't need European pedigree or American muscle to build something genuinely enjoyable to drive. It was genuinely quick for its class and, more importantly, genuinely honest.

In Australia, the 1600/510 became a fixture on the club racing scene throughout the late 1960s and 1970s. The car's mechanical simplicity and forgiving nature made it perfect for privateer competitors, and it earned a reputation as a reliable platform for modification. The straightforward engine internals and easily accessible running gear made it a favourite for those learning to wrench as well as those building their first racing cars. You'll still find well-maintained examples turning up at CAMS events and club meetings, testament to their longevity and the affection enthusiasts hold for them.

What makes the 1600/510 special isn't any single revolutionary feature, but rather its completeness as a package. It arrived at the exact moment when Japanese manufacturers were ready to challenge established assumptions about what affordable cars should be, and it did so with no pretence, no shortcuts, and genuine engineering integrity. For collectors and users alike, it represents an important chapter in automotive history, and a car that's simply rewarding to own and drive.

// SPECS
Body Sedan
Engine 1.6L Inline-4
Country Japan
Production 1967-1973
Units Built ~530,000

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// KNOWN ISSUES

What to watch for.

All 17 issues

Floor Pan Corrosion

Common
Body and Structure
What happens

Soft, spongy, or perforated floor pans. Wet carpet after rain. Road noise increases noticeably as the floors thin. In extreme cases, the floor is partially or entirely gone.

Why it happens

The floor pans are thin-gauge steel with minimal factory corrosion protection. Road spray from below and water entry from above (through deteriorated seals) attack the metal from both sides. Australian humidity accelerates the process even without road salt.

How to fix it

Weld in repair panels. Some reproduction floor sections are available; others must be fabricated from flat sheet steel by a competent panel beater. This is a common and well-understood repair in the 510 community. Cost: $500--1,500 per section, depending on extent and fabrication requirements.

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Sill (Rocker Panel) Corrosion

Minor
Body and Structure
What happens

The outer sill skin softens and crumbles. Door alignment changes as the inner sill structure weakens. The car may creak or flex over bumps.

Why it happens

Box-section sills trap water when drain holes block. Corrosion works from inside, so the damage is often worse than it appears from outside.

How to fix it

Full sill replacement -- inner and outer sections. Some repair panels are available; others require fabrication. Cost: $1,000--2,500 per side.

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Inner Guard and Strut Tower Corrosion

Minor
Body and Structure
What happens

The inner front fenders around the MacPherson strut top mounts corrode and thin. In severe cases, the strut tower can deform under load.

Why it happens

Road spray and trapped moisture in the double-skinned areas around the radiator support and inner guards. Poor drainage design traps water.

How to fix it

Fabricate and weld repair sections. Strut tower reinforcement plates are available from some specialists. Cost: $800--2,000 per side.

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Rear Wheel Arch Corrosion

Critical
Body and Structure
What happens

Bubbling paint, perforation, and structural weakening of the inner and outer rear wheel arches.

Why it happens

Road spray and debris accumulate between the inner and outer skins. The rear suspension mounting points are nearby, so severe rust can affect them.

How to fix it

Cut out and replace with new metal. Some reproduction arch sections are available. Cost: $500--1,500 per side.

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Spare Tyre Well Corrosion

Common
Body and Structure
What happens

The boot floor around the spare tyre well perforates. Water pools in the spare tyre recess.

Why it happens

Water enters through tail-light seals and boot seal failures. The spare tyre well is the lowest point and collects water that doesn't drain.

How to fix it

Weld in repair sections. Cost: $300--800.

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Oil Leaks

Critical
Engine -- L-Series (L16)
What happens

Oil seepage and dripping from multiple points on the engine. Common leak points: valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, distributor shaft seal, cam seal.

Why it happens

The L-series uses cork, rubber, and paper gaskets that deteriorate over 55 years. The L16 was not the tightest engine when new; age makes everything worse.

How to fix it

Systematic reseal. Replace all gaskets and seals in one session. The rear main seal requires gearbox removal. Cost: $150--300 DIY for gasket set, $500--1,000 at a workshop for a full reseal.

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