Question 1

Intake Manifold Gasket Leaks

Accepted Answer

Coolant leak at the front or rear of the intake manifold. Coolant may drip externally or, worse, leak internally into the engine oil. May also cause a vacuum leak, resulting in rough idle and poor fuel economy. The Chevrolet small-block V8 uses an intake manifold that seals to both the cylinder heads and the front/rear of the block (the "valley" area). The gaskets between the manifold and the block ends deteriorate with age and heat cycling. The RTV (silicone) sealer used in this area also fails over time. Remove the intake manifold, clean all surfaces, and reinstall with new gaskets and fresh RTV sealer. This is a significant job but not technically difficult, the carburettor, distributor, and ancillaries must be removed to access the manifold bolts. Budget $200-400 for gaskets and a day's labour. Always check for coolant contamination in the oil (milky residue on the dipstick) before reassembly, if coolant has entered the oil, the engine should be flushed and the bearings inspected.

Question 2

Rochester Quadrajet Carburettor Issues

Accepted Answer

Hesitation on acceleration (bog), flooding, fuel smell, hard starting when hot, black smoke, erratic idle. The Rochester Quadrajet (Q-jet) is a complex 4-barrel carburettor with small primary jets and large secondaries. The primary metering rods and jets wear, the accelerator pump deteriorates, the float level drifts, and the power piston can stick. The Q-jet's small primary circuits are sensitive to dirt and fuel quality. Ethanol in modern fuel attacks the original rubber accelerator pump and needle valve seat. A full Q-jet rebuild with a quality rebuild kit ($80-150) addresses most issues. The key is getting the float level correct, an incorrect float level causes almost all Q-jet running problems. Alternatively, many owners replace the Q-jet with a Holley 4-barrel or Edelbrock Performer carburettor ($400-800). These are simpler to tune and maintain, though they're not period-correct for concours judging.

Question 3

Overheating Under Load

Accepted Answer

Temperature gauge climbs on highway drives, particularly towing or climbing hills. May push coolant out the overflow. Engine pings (detonation) under load. The 327 and 350 V8s generate significant heat, and the factory cooling system was designed for 1960s conditions. The original radiator may be partially blocked. The clutch fan loses efficiency with age. The thermostat may be stuck or the wrong rating. In the Monaro's engine bay, heat soak from the exhaust manifolds further stresses the cooling system. Have the radiator recored or replaced with a 3-core brass or aluminium unit ($400-800). Fit an electric thermo fan ($150-250). Ensure the thermostat is 82°C (180°F) and functioning. Check the water pump for leaks and cavitation. Consider ceramic-coated or wrapped exhaust manifolds to reduce underbonnet heat.

Question 4

Hydraulic Lifter Noise

Accepted Answer

Ticking or clattering from the top of the engine that varies with RPM. May be audible at idle and disappear at higher RPM, or vice versa. The Chevrolet small-block uses hydraulic lifters that compensate for valve train clearance changes as the engine heats up. Over time, the lifters wear internally, develop internal leaks, or collapse. Dirty or old oil exacerbates the problem, the lifters rely on clean oil to maintain pressure. Start with an oil change using quality 15W-40 or 10W-40 and a can of engine flush. If the ticking persists, individual lifters can be replaced. Budget $10-20 per lifter, and there are 16 of them. Replacing all 16 is recommended, if one has failed, the others are wearing. Access requires removing the intake manifold, rocker arms, and pushrods. Budget a full day's labour.

Question 5

Oil Leaks, Rear Main Seal

Accepted Answer

Oil drips from the bellhousing area. Oil accumulates on the underside of the engine and transmission. The Holden six and 253 V8 use a rope-style rear main seal that hardens with age. Every old Holden engine leaks from the rear main seal to some degree. Replace the rear main seal. Requires engine or gearbox removal. Budget $500-1,000 at a workshop. Many owners tolerate a slow leak and keep the oil topped up.

Question 6

Valve Train Wear (253 V8)

Accepted Answer

Ticking or clattering from the top of the engine. Reduced power. The Holden 253 V8 uses adjustable rocker arms on a shared shaft. The rocker tips and shaft wear with age, particularly if the rockers haven't been adjusted regularly. Inspect and replace worn rockers and shaft. A Yella Terra roller rocker conversion ($400-800) eliminates the wear issue permanently and adds a useful amount of top-end power.

Question 7

Muncie 4-Speed Synchro Wear

Accepted Answer

Grinding on gear changes, particularly second and third gear. Difficulty selecting gears under load. The Muncie 4-speed's synchro rings wear over time, especially in cars that have been driven hard or used for motorsport. The M20 (wide ratio) and M21 (close ratio) are both affected. Rebuild the gearbox with new synchro rings, bearings, and seals. Budget $1,000-2,000 for a professional rebuild. Muncie rebuild kits are available from American drivetrain suppliers. The Muncie is a well-documented gearbox with excellent parts availability.

Question 8

Turbo-Hydramatic (TH350) Automatic Wear

Accepted Answer

Slipping under load, delayed engagement from Park to Drive, harsh shifts, fluid leak. The TH350 is a reliable transmission but wears after decades of use. The clutch packs glaze and lose friction. The internal seals harden. The governor can stick, affecting shift timing. Start with a fluid and filter service. If problems persist, the transmission needs a rebuild ($1,500-2,500). The TH350 is a well-understood unit with excellent parts availability and rebuild support.

Question 9

Inner Guard Rot

Accepted Answer

Rust visible (or hidden) on the inner front guards, particularly where they meet the firewall and chassis rails. The inner guard area traps road spray, mud, and moisture. The complex shapes create pockets where water sits against the metal. This is arguably the worst rust zone on the entire car, it's structural, it's hidden, and it's expensive to repair. Cut out the rusted metal and fabricate or weld in new sections. Reproduction inner guard panels are available from some specialists. Budget $2,000-5,000 per side for a proper repair. This is a job for an experienced panel beater with Monaro-specific knowledge.

Question 10

A-Pillar Rust (Coupe)

Accepted Answer

Rust at the base of the A-pillars, around the windscreen area, and in the lower A-pillar structure behind the door hinges. The pillarless coupe lacks B-pillars, so the A-pillars carry a greater structural load. Water ingress through deteriorated windscreen seals attacks the A-pillar from the inside. The lower A-pillar area is a mud and moisture trap. This is a critical structural repair that requires expert-level panel work. The A-pillars must be sectioned and new metal welded in. Budget $3,000-6,000 per side. Do not compromise on the quality of this repair, A-pillar integrity is essential for the coupe body's structural strength and crash safety.

Question 11

Floor Pan and Sill Rust

Accepted Answer

Perforated floor pans, crumbling sills, soft metal when prodded from underneath. Standard Holden problem, water ingress from above and road spray from below attacks the floor and sills relentlessly. Cut and replace with reproduction panels. Floor pan sections and sill repair panels are available. Budget $2,000-5,000 per side for sills, $3,000-8,000 for comprehensive floor pan replacement.

Question 12

Boot Floor and Rear Drop Panel

Accepted Answer

Rust in the boot floor, spare tyre well, and the panel below the rear window (the "drop panel"). Water enters through tail-light seals, boot lid seal, and the rear window seal. The enclosed spaces trap moisture. Reproduction boot floor panels and repair sections are available. The rear drop panel is more specialised, some reproduction availability exists. Budget $1,000-3,000 for boot floor, $1,500-3,000 for the drop panel.

Question 13

Front Suspension Wear

Accepted Answer

Clunking over bumps, vague steering, uneven tyre wear, wandering at highway speeds. Ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, and control arm bushings all wear with age. The Monaro's heavier V8 engines put more stress on the front suspension than the lighter six-cylinder HK/HT/HG sedans. Complete front end refresh, ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm, Pitman arm, control arm bushings, and sway bar links. Budget $600-1,200 for a complete kit. Polyurethane bushings (Nolathane, SuperPro) are recommended for their longevity.

Question 14

Rear Trailing Arm Bush Wear

Accepted Answer

Clunking from the rear under acceleration and braking. Rear axle wander. Vague handling through corners. The HK-HG uses trailing arms to locate the rear axle. The rubber bushings in these arms deteriorate over time. Replace the trailing arm bushings. Polyurethane replacements are available and last longer than rubber. Budget $200-400 for parts.

Question 15

Frameless Window Seal and Alignment

Accepted Answer

Wind noise at speed, water leaks in rain, windows don't seal against the roofline rubber, windows rattle when closed. The pillarless coupe's frameless windows rely on precise alignment between the glass, the window regulator mechanism, and the roof seal. Over decades, the regulators wear, the guide channels distort, and the rubber seals deteriorate. Without a door frame to guide the glass, even small misalignments cause problems. Full window seal replacement and regulator adjustment. New roof rail seals, door seals, and quarter glass seals are available from specialists. The window regulators may need rebuilding, worn gears and guides cause poor window travel. Budget $500-1,000 per door for a comprehensive seal and regulator overhaul. This is fiddly, patience-testing work that rewards experience.

Question 16

Body Flex (Coupe)

Accepted Answer

Doors don't close properly on uneven ground. Dashboard cracks. Windscreen seals pop out. Creaking and flexing noises over rough roads. The pillarless coupe body is inherently less rigid than the sedan because it lacks B-pillars. If the structural elements (sills, A-pillars, floor pans) have been weakened by rust, the body flexes more than designed. Even a solid coupe body is less rigid than the sedan. Ensure all structural elements are sound, any rust in the sills, A-pillars, or floor pans must be repaired properly. Some owners fit subframe connectors or chassis stiffening kits to reduce flex. For race cars, a full roll cage provides the necessary rigidity.

Question 17

Generator/Alternator Charging Issues

Accepted Answer

Battery goes flat, dim lights, instruments dim, engine stalls. Early HK models used generators; later models used alternators. Either way, the charging components are 55 years old. Voltage regulators fail, bushes wear, and the wiring deteriorates. Replace with a modern internally-regulated alternator ($200-400). Clean all earth points. Replace corroded wiring sections.

Question 18

Ignition System Deterioration

Accepted Answer

Misfiring, rough running, poor starting, timing drift. Points, condenser, distributor shaft bushings, plug leads, and coil all deteriorate with age. Fit an electronic ignition module (Pertronix or similar, $100-150) to eliminate points and condenser. Replace plug leads with quality silicone-insulated leads. Replace the coil. Budget $200-400 for a complete ignition system refresh.

HK-HG Monaro / GTS

HK-HG Monaro / GTS known problems