Question 1

TFI Module Failure (EA-ED)

Accepted Answer

The engine cuts out while driving and won't restart. After cooling for 30-60 minutes, it may restart and run normally for a while before dying again. Sometimes fails permanently. The Thick Film Ignition (TFI) module is mounted on the distributor, directly exposed to engine heat. The module's internal solder joints crack from thermal cycling. This is a design flaw, the module should never have been heat-soak mounted. Bosch designed the unit; Ford Australia (via Motorcraft) just relabelled it. Replace the TFI module. Genuine Motorcraft units are the most reliable but increasingly hard to find. Aftermarket Bosch units are available ($80-150). Some owners relocate the TFI module away from the engine using an extension harness to reduce heat exposure. Carry a spare in the glovebox, this is the number one stranding failure on EA-ED Falcons.

Question 2

Hydraulic Lifter Tick (AU especially, all models)

Accepted Answer

A ticking or tapping noise from the top of the engine, often worst on cold start. May persist for minutes or be constant. The noise comes from the rocker cover area. The hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) wear internally and lose their ability to maintain zero valve lash. Oil quality and change intervals directly affect lifter life. The AU seems most susceptible, though all SOHC Falcons can develop this issue at high mileage. Replace all 12 lifters. The job requires removing the rocker assembly, unbolt the rocker shaft pedestals evenly (one turn at a time, outside to centre), remove the assembly, and use a pin punch and small hammer to tap out each lifter. Install new lifters greased on the outside, with the shim slot facing upward (oil feed). Reassemble centre to outside, torque pedestal bolts to 22 Nm. The job takes 4-6 hours. Parts: $180-250 from aftermarket suppliers. Ford charges $82 each ($984 for a set).

Question 3

Coil Pack Failure (EF-EL)

Accepted Answer

Misfiring on specific cylinders, rough idle, loss of power. May be intermittent initially, then become constant. The EF and EL use a waste-spark coil pack (three coils firing six cylinders). Heat and age cause internal insulation breakdown in individual coil towers. Replace the coil pack. Use new spark plug leads at the same time, old leads can damage a new coil pack through increased resistance. Cost: $100-200 for the coil pack, $50-80 for leads.

Question 4

Crank Angle Sensor Failure (EA-ED)

Accepted Answer

Engine cranks but won't start, or starts and dies. No spark at all cylinders. The crank angle sensor (CAS) on EA-ED models is located in the distributor. The sensor's magnetic pickup weakens with age, or the toothed reluctor wheel develops corrosion. Replace the crank angle sensor. On EA-ED, this requires partially disassembling the distributor. Set timing to top dead centre (TDC) on cylinder #1 before removing the distributor. When reinstalling, ensure the rotor points to the #1 lead position. Cost: $60-120.

Question 5

Idle Speed Control (ISC) Valve Issues

Accepted Answer

Erratic idle speed, high idle (1,500+ rpm), stalling when coming to a stop, or inability to maintain idle. The ISC valve (also called the idle air control valve) clogs with carbon deposits from PCV system blowby. The valve is an electric stepper motor that controls idle air bypass. Remove and clean the ISC valve with carburettor cleaner. Reset the base idle by: (1) Remove ISC plug, (2) Insert 0.75 mm feeler gauge between the throttle stop tab and throttle lever, (3) Put the engine in diagnostic mode, (4) Wait 2 minutes and adjust the throttle blade screw until idle reads 700 rpm (+/- 50). Cost: free if cleaning works; $80-150 for a new ISC valve.

Question 6

Rocker Cover Bolt Breakage

Accepted Answer

A rocker cover bolt snaps during routine maintenance, leaving the threaded portion stuck in the head. The bolts are small and the aluminium head threads are soft. Over-torquing or corrosion causes the bolt to shear. Rocker cover bolt torque is 17 Nm, surprisingly light. Use a screw extractor (easy-out) to remove the broken bolt. If the threads are damaged, a helicoil repair is necessary. Take extreme care during removal, if the broken bolt is forced and the thread strips, the head requires professional repair.

Question 7

Fuel Pump Failure

Accepted Answer

Engine cranks but won't start. No fuel pressure at the rail. The fuel pump may be silent (normally an audible whine for 2 seconds when the ignition is turned to ON). The in-tank electric fuel pump wears from age and debris. Running the tank low regularly accelerates failure by exposing the pump to air. Corroded electrical connections at the fuel pump plug compound the problem. Replace the fuel pump. Access requires dropping the fuel tank (no access panel on EA-EL). Stock fuel pump pressure is approximately 270 kPa. Replace the fuel filter at the same time. Cost: $120-200 for the pump, plus labour for tank removal.

Question 8

Fuel Pump Relay Failure

Accepted Answer

No-start condition, identical symptoms to fuel pump failure, but the pump is fine. The fuel pump relay contacts corrode or weld together. The relay is located in different positions depending on the model year, under the dash, behind the kick panel, or in the engine bay relay box. Replace the fuel pump relay. Keep a spare in the glovebox. Cost: $30-50. Locate the relay before you need it, finding it on the side of the road in the dark is not ideal.

Question 9

Fuel Pressure Regulator Leak

Accepted Answer

Rich running, black smoke, fuel smell, poor starting, rough idle. Fuel may be visible in the vacuum line connected to the regulator. The diaphragm inside the fuel pressure regulator tears. Fuel leaks into the intake manifold through the vacuum line. Replace the fuel pressure regulator. Standard pressure is 270 kPa (39 psi) for EA-ED; the XR6 uses a 300 kPa (43 psi) regulator. They are not interchangeable without retuning. Cost: $60-100.

Question 10

Heater Tap Failure (EF-AU)

Accepted Answer

Coolant leaks from the heater tap onto the engine or firewall. Loss of heating or cooling capacity. Coolant smell inside the cabin. The vacuum-operated heater tap uses a rubber diaphragm that perishes with age. Once it fails, coolant leaks externally. Replace the heater tap. Cost: $40-80. The job takes 1-2 hours. Replace the heater hoses at the same time if they're original.

Question 11

Thermostat Failure

Accepted Answer

Engine overcools (gauge sits on L) or overheats. Temperature gauge may swing between L and normal erratically. Thermostats stick open or closed with age. The factory thermostat is typically 82°C. Replace the thermostat. Cost: $20-40. Install with the jiggle pin at 12 o'clock for proper air bleeding.

Question 12

Expansion Tank Overpressure (EL)

Accepted Answer

Coolant pours from the expansion tank overflow after the engine is turned off. The temperature gauge reads erratically, may show L, then O, then back to L during a single drive. Usually caused by overfilling the expansion tank (fill to the lower mark when cold, not the brim), a stuck thermostat, a faulty radiator cap (not holding pressure), or in worst cases, a cracked head allowing combustion gases into the cooling system. First, fill the expansion tank correctly (to the lower mark when cold). Replace the thermostat and radiator cap. If the problem persists, test for combustion gases in the coolant using a block test kit. A cracked head requires professional repair ($1,000-2,000).

Question 13

BTR 4-Speed Automatic Failure (all models, AU worst)

Accepted Answer

Harsh shifts, slipping, delayed engagement, shudder during 2-3 shift. The AU frequently enters limp mode (stuck in 3rd gear only). The BTR 4-speed uses clutch packs and bands that wear with age and heat. The AU Series 1 auto is the weakest variant. Contaminated or burnt fluid accelerates wear. The transmission control module can develop electrical faults causing limp mode (fault code P0748). Start with a fluid and filter service ($150-250). If problems persist: shift kit ($200-400 fitted) improves shift quality and extends life. A rebuild costs $1,500-3,000. Alternatively, a manual conversion using a wrecking yard T5 transmission is popular ($1,000-2,000 all-in for a DIY conversion).

Question 14

Smartlock Immobiliser (EF onwards)

Accepted Answer

Engine cranks but won't start. An exclamation mark appears below the handbrake warning light on the dash. The fuel pump may prime (whine for 2 seconds) but the injectors won't fire. The Smartlock system prevents fuel delivery unless the key transponder matches the BEM. When the BEM, ECU, or key loses synchronisation, from a flat battery, engine swap, or ECU replacement, the car won't start. This is confusing because the car cranks normally and may even fire briefly if starting fluid is sprayed into the intake. An auto electrician or Ford dealer can reprogram the Smartlock. For modified or project cars, a Smartlock bypass module ($50-100) permanently disables the system. When swapping engines between models (e.g., EL motor into EF), use the original car's ECU and BEM, don't mix components from different vehicles unless you're prepared to deal with Smartlock issues.

Question 15

Alternator Output Issues

Accepted Answer

Battery light on dash, dim lights, accessories misbehaving, battery going flat overnight. The alternator wears with age. Output should be 13.8-14.4V at idle. Some replacement alternators come with a different pulley size, which affects output at idle. The wiring between alternator and battery can also develop high resistance from corrosion. Test charging output with a multimeter. Replace the alternator if output is below 13.5V at idle. Ensure the correct pulley size is fitted. Clean and tighten all battery and alternator cable connections. Apply dielectric grease. Cost: $150-300 for the alternator.

Question 16

Diagnostic Code Reading

Accepted Answer

The check engine light illuminates, but you need to read the fault codes. Various sensor and system faults trigger stored codes. EA-EL: You can read fault codes with a DIY test light. Short the far-left top and bottom pins on the diagnostic plug and count the flashes on the check engine light. AU: Requires an OBD-II scan tool or a Forscan Lite app on Android. Common codes: 636 (transmission oil temp), 634 (gear selector sensor), 786 (various sensor faults), P0748 (AU limp mode). Document all codes before clearing them.

Question 17

Front Lower Control Arm Bushings

Accepted Answer

Clunking over bumps, vague steering, uneven tyre wear on inner edges. The rubber bushings in the front lower control arms perish with age. Cars driven on rough rural roads wear faster. Replace the control arms with new bushings. Complete arms are often cheaper than pressing new bushings. Polyurethane bushings are available for a firmer ride. Cost: $150-300 per side fitted.

Question 18

AU Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) Bushing Wear

Accepted Answer

Clunking from the rear over bumps. Rear-end wander under braking. Uneven rear tyre wear. The AU sedan's independent rear suspension uses rubber trailing arm bushings that wear with age and load. Replace the rear trailing arm bushings. This can be done without removing the subframe, but access is tight. Cost: $200-400 per side fitted.

Question 19

Power Steering Pump Failure (AU)

Accepted Answer

Heavy steering, whining noise from the power steering pump, fluid leaks. The power steering pump wears with age. Low fluid from leaking hoses accelerates pump failure. Replace the power steering pump. The same process applies to EF and EL models. Cost: $200-400 fitted. Replace the high-pressure hose if it's seeping.

Question 20

Boot Floor and Spare Tyre Well Rust

Accepted Answer

Rust perforations in the boot floor, particularly around the spare tyre well. Water pooling in the boot. Water enters through deteriorated taillight seals and sits in the spare tyre well. The trapped moisture rusts the metal from underneath. Source a replacement boot floor from a wrecker (EA-ED sedan floors only fit EA-ED sedans; wagon floors are completely different). Alternatively, cut out rust and weld in repair panels. Replace taillight seals to prevent recurrence. Professional repair: $500-1,500.

Question 21

Door Bottom Rust

Accepted Answer

Rust visible at the bottom edge of the doors, starting as bubbles and progressing to holes. Blocked drain holes in the door skins trap water. The water sits against the door skin and rusts from the inside out. Clear blocked drain holes first. Treat surface rust with rust converter and touch-up paint. If perforated, replacement doors from a wrecker are the most cost-effective repair. Cost varies.

Falcon (EA-AU)

Falcon (EA-AU) known problems